1999 Burgundy - Ten Years On

Nineteen ninety-nine was a gift from the Gods: a vintage both plentiful and successful: not only of high quality but consistent geographically and hierarchically; delicious from the Mâconnais (not to mention the Beaujolais) to Marsannay, and fine, within its context, from generic up to grand cru. The wines have volume as well as concentration, richness and balance, intensity and class. And the whites are as splendid as the reds.

They are now ten years old. The lesser wines are ready, by which I mean most of the red premiers crus of the Côte de Beaune downwards, the village wines of the Côte de Nuits and nearly all the white wines. But the senior bottles still need a few years. Yet, such is the sophistication and ripeness of the tannins, that even the very top wines can be enjoyed now, though obviously it is a pity to open them so soon. Such also is the harmony all the wines, that even many of only minor pretension (Aubert de Villaine's Bourgogne Côte Chalonnaise, La Digoine, or Patrick Javillier's Bourgogne Blanc, Cuvée Oligocène, for instance), will still last well.

I have been pulling out odd bottles, particularly white (as much because of the problem of premature oxidation as the tenth birthday), since January. When I started, I came across one white wine which was still very tight. I gave it two hours in the decanter. The improvement was startling. I have always believed in carafing wines (even Burgundy, which the locals frown on, and equally whites as well as reds). It had not occurred to me what a difference it would make to a ten year old blanc. But that is the vintage. I have since been decanting all my white 1999s two hours in advance.

Harmony is the key to longevity. When it is supported by good structure, the time-span, the window of opportunity, can be much more extended than we expect. All good reds of a good vintage, plus most of the whites of premier cru level and above, require ten years to show their paces. This is very true of the 1999s. As you will see, there are very few disappointing wines. To those who possess stocks of the vintage, I say: yes, you can start drinking, but don't be in too much of a hurry to empty your bins. There are plenty of bottles which will still be in a vigorous prime in 2019.

The following notes come in the main from my ten year on tasting, a party for the growers I hold in Burgundy in June every year. I have added notes on other wines which have come my way since the beginning of the year.

WHITE WINES

Montagny, Premier Cru, Cuvée Selection, Domaine Stéphane Aladame.

Good colour, but now a little tired. I tried two bottles.

Bourgogne, Cuvée Oligocène, Domaine Patrick Javillier.

Ripe, rich and full bodied. Lots of class, depth and interest. Holding up well. No hurry to drink.

Saint-Aubin, En Remilly, Domaine Hubert Lamy.

Magnum. Holding up very well. Rich, medium-full body. Fresh and concentrated. Lovely fruit here. Peachy and classy. Delicious. Still has plenty of life. Now-2016.

Beaune, Clos des Mouches, blanc, Domaine Joseph Drouhin.

Fullish but youthful colour. Very fresh on the nose; ripe and concentrated with a flavour of candied peel. Fullish body. Rich but crisp. Lots of depth and plenty of life ahead of it. Very good indeed. Now-2016.

Beaune, Teurons, blanc, Domaine Bouchard Père et Fils.

Old before its time. Oxidised.

Meursault, Domaine Pierre Morey.

Ripe and quite sizeable. Still fresh. But I don't get much style and distinction. Drink soon.

Meursault, Domaine des Comtes Lafon.

This is very impressive. Lovely fruit. Fullish body. Fresh and vigorous. No sign of age. Positive and harmonious at the end. And classy too. Now-2015.

Meursault, Blagny, Domaine Thierry et Pascale Matrot.

Slightly four-square on the nose. Full and ample, but a slight suggestion of reduction on the palate. Fresh though. Improved in the glass. Very good. Now-2014.

Meursault, Bouchères, Domaine Roulot.

Magnum. Not as fresh or as interesting on the nose as the Tessons. Slightly four-square. Medium-full body. Good plus. Now-2014.

Meursault, Charmes, Maison Louis Jadot.

Quite an advanced colour. Rich, fat and just a little blowsy on the nose. Fullish body. Nutty. No blowsiness on the palate. Rich, ample, generous, long Very good acidity. Fine. Now-2015.

Meursault, Charmes, Domaine des Comtes Lafon.

A little tight at first, but I had decanted it, and after an hour it was showing magnificently. Medium-full body. Crisp and firm on the attack, with plenty of backbone and good acidity. Lovely, minerally-flowery fruit. Long and high class. Now mature but still has plenty of life ahead of it. Now-2020.

Meursault, Genevrières, Maison Louis Jadot.

Quite a developed colour. But very good acidity and intensity on the nose. Full and firm. Profound and gently oaky. Succulent and rich. Very fresh and classy. Very fine. Now-2020.

Meursault, Genevières, Domaine Francois Jobard;

Magnum. A full, meaty example, but a lot of vigour after ten years. Lots of depth and quality too. Now-2018.

Meursault, Genevières, Domaine des Comtes Lafon.

Ripe and rich on the nose, with hints of oak and candied peel on the follow through. Full, meaty, rich, almost voluptuous. Good grip. High quality. No hurry to drink. Now-2018.

Meursault, Perrières, Domaine Bouchard Père et Fils.

Beautifully made. Just about à point. Fullish, fresh, crisp and minerally. Quite concentrated. Lots of depth and class; Just the faintest suggestion of oak. Balanced, long and with plenty of life ahead of it. Fine plus. Now-2020.

Meursault, Perrières, Domaine Jean-Francois Coche-Dury.

Just about mature on the nose, though not quite focused, which it became after an hour or so. Rich but minerally. Concentrated and just a little appley, but in the best sense. Improved and expanded in the glass. Profound, youthful and eventually delicious. Certainly very fine plus. 2011-2020.

Meursault, Perrières, Domaine Darviot-Perrin.

Fully evolved but no sign of undue age. Medium-full body. Round. Ample. Ripe and rich. Underneath minerally and fragrant. Balanced and very good depth and length. Fine. Now-2017.

Meursault, Perrières, Maison Louis Jadot.

Rich and fat for a Perrières. Fully developed. But good grip. Reserved on the nose. Medium-full body. Long and complew. Lovely fruit, but not as ample or as complete as the Genevrières. Now-2016.

Meursault, Perrières, Domaine des Comtes Lafon.

Expanded considerably in the glass like most top 1999s. Fullish body. Rich but steely. Ample but racy. Splendid fruit, depth, class, harmony and energy. Very fine. Still a great deal of life ahead of it. Very fine. Now-2020 plus.

Meursault, Perrières, Domaine Thierry et Pascale Matrot.

Rounder than Roulot. But rich and ripe and satisfying. Full and ample. Needs food. Fine quality, especially at the end. Now-2018.

Meursault, Perrières, Domaine Roulot.

This is quite brilliant. Composed. Youthful. Splendidly minerally. Very long and very classy. Fullish body. Very fine indeed. Now-2020.

Meursault, Poruzots, Domaine Francois Jobard.

Magnum. Ripe, rich, full bodied. Just a little rigid at first. Would have been better decanted in advance. Classy fruit underneath. Developed considerably in the glass. Fine quality. Now-2018.

Meursault, Tessons, Clos de Monplaisir, Domaine Roulot.

Magnum. Just a hint of fatigue on the nose, but none on the palate. Fresh, round, ripe, gentle and stylish. Medium-full body. Very long and most lovely. Absolutely à point. Now-2016.

Puligny-Montrachet, Domaine Jean-Marc Boillot.

Fully mature. Ripe and well-made. Quite fresh. Certainly fruity. One bottle had a bit more zip than the other. Drink soon.

Puligny-Montrachet, Les Caillerets, Domaine de Montille.

Splendid nose. Ripe, rich, concentrated, fresh and vigorous. Very classy, very profound and very lovely.Very fine quality. Now-2020.

Puligny-Montrachet, Les Champs-Canet, Domaine Ramonet.

Youthful colour. A touch of sulphur at first. Full, firm, rich, backward nose. Very good grip. A masculine wine. Very lovely concentrated fruit. Got better and better as it evolved in the glass. Will still improve. Fine plus. 2011-2020.

Puligny-Montrachet, Les Champs-Canet, Domaine Etienne Sauzet.

Youthful colour. Fresh, fullish, ripe and succulent. Lovely fruit. A bit more advanced as well as more peachy than the Combettes. Concentrated and very well-balanced. Lots of depth, class and vigour. Fine. Now-2020.

Puligny-Montrachet, Les Combettes, Domaine Etienne Sauzet.

Youthful colour. As with a lot of 1999 whites at this time, a bit tight at first. Rich, ripe full nose, gently oaky and as much apricotty as peachy. Full body. A lot of depth and class and very good grip. This is still young. Long and complex and very elegant indeed. Just about ready. Fine plus. Now-2020.

Puligny-Montrachet, Les Demoiselles, Domaine Michel Colin-Déleger.

Prematurely oxidized.

Puligny-Montrachet, Les Enseignères, Maison Vincent Girardin.

Mature colour. Medium-full bodied, quite fresh and quite stylsh and quite Puligny-like. But not a wine of great depth and finesse. A decent village example, but nothing special. Drink quite soon.

Puligny-Montrachet, Les Folatières, Domaine Leflaive.

One bottle prematurely oxidised. The other a bit too developed on the nose, but slightly better on the palate. OK but essentially lacking freshness. A third bttle was as it should be. Full, rich, ripe and distinguished. This you could keep until 2017.

Puligny-Montrachet, Les Referts, Domaine Jean-Marc Boillot.

A bit old on the nose. And curiously sweet on the palate. A second bottle was a bit more vigorous. But just as sweet.

Chassagne-Montrachet, Domaine du Château de Maltroye.

This is really very good for a village wine. Medium-full body. Still very fresh, yet fully mature. Ripe and full of fruit, with an interesting background spice. Balanced and vigorous at the end. Will still last a few years. Now-2014.

Chassagne-Montrachet, Les Blanchots Dessus, Domaine Darviot-Perrin.

The colour is still fresh. Expanded considerably with some aeration in the glass. Rich, vigorous, concentrated nose. Touches of crab-apple and a little of the exotic. But very good grip and depth, as well as class. Fullish body. Just a faint touch of oak. The finish is long, positive and profound. Lovely. Lots of life ahead of it. Fine plus. Now-2020.

Chassagne-Montrachet, Les Caillerets, Domaine Duperrier-Adam,

Fat, evolved, somewhat four-square nose, with a bit of built in sulphur. Better on the palate. Fullish, rich, good grip. Fully ready. Good oaky base. Improved in the glass. Very good, if not a wine of great nuance. Now-2015.

Chassagne-Montrachet, Le Cailleret, Maison Vincent Girardin.

Quite a well-developed colour, but no undue oxidation. Rich, fat, quite oaky, but fresh nose. Fullish body. Ample. Plenty of ripe fruit. Peachy and apricotty. Good grip. Not a wine of the greatest distinction. It's a little clumsy. But certainly very good indeed. Now-2016.

Chassagne-Montrachet, Les Fairendes, Vieilles Vignes, Domaine Vincent et Francois Jouard.

Good fresh colour. Some development on both nose and palate. Fullish body. Rich and spicy, even opulent and voluptuous. Good grip. Just about ready. Not the greatest finesse, but very good indeed. Now-2016.

Chassagne-Montrachet, Les Grandes Ruchottes, Domaine Bernard Moreau.

Fresh, stylish nose. Lovely fruit. This is a wine of high quality. Medium-full body. Balanced. Very good acidity. Ripe and stylish, complex and vigorous. Very pure. Very lovely. A fine example. Now-2018.

Chassagne-Montrachet, Les Grandes Ruchottes, Domaine Fernand et Laurent Pillot.

This is very delicious. Splendid freshness coupled with ripeness and concentration and class on the nose. Ample, succulent and vigorous. Lovely fruit. Long and complex. Splendid quality. Now-2020.

Nuits-Saint-Georges, Clos de l'Arlot, blanc, Domaine de l'Arlot.

Magnum. Soft, fresh, quite oaky, and very pleasant, but rather one-dimensional after all these top Côte de Beaunes. Not peachy enough. Good but not great. Now-2015.

Corton-Charlemagne, Domaine Bonneau du Martray.

Full-bodied, crisp, very youthful. Firm, with a great deal of depth, and a long way from being ready for drinking. Very aristocratic fruit. Profound and very lovely at the end. Excellent. 2014-2028.

Corton-Charlemagne, Domaine Bouchard Père et Fils.

Youthful colour. Ripe, mature and gently oaky on the nose. Plenty of depth and finesse. Fullish body. Good minerality. Very good peachy fruit. High quality here and plenty of reserves for the future. Fine. Just about ready. Now- 2018.

Corton-Charlemagne, Maison Champy.

Magnum. Very fine on the nose. Concentrated, crisp and vigorous. Full bodied. Youthful. Properly minerally. Very fine grip. Very fine. Now-2020 plus.

Corton-Charlemagne, Domaine Patrick Javillier.

Magnum. Rich, round, minerally and essentially harmonious on the nose. Ample, full bodied and rich. Splendid grip. Very classy. This is very fine. Now-2020.

Corton-Charlemagne, Domaine Christophe Roumier.

Quite developed on the colour. A little lean on the nose. A touch of oak. Austere and doesn't really sing. Merely good. But it may round off to its advantage. 2011-2018.

Corton-Charlemagne, Maison Vincent Girardin.

Fully mature on the nose with just a touch of reduction, which did not blow away. Fullish, rich, very gently oaky and well-balanced. But at the end of the day, neither the complexity or real class of this grand cru. So only very good within its context. 2011-2020.

Corton-Charlemagne, Maison Verget.

A Corton from the Aloxe side, to judge by the honeyed, slightly blousy nose. Full body. Some evolution. Ripe. Almost exotically fruity. Good acidity, but not really classy. Fresh at the end but essentially a bit overblown. Very good at best. Now-2015.

Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet, Domaine Sauzet.

The colour shows some development. Still vigorous on the nose though. Ample, stylish, ripe, rich and profound. Very good grip. Lovely fruit. Medium-full body. Long on the palate. Fine plus. 2011-2020.

Bâtard-Montrachet, Domaine Ramonet.

Firm, concentrated, youthful nose. High class. Very fine grip and depth. Long and intense and harmonious; A beautiful wine. Very fine plus. 2012-2020 plus.

Bâtard-Montrachet, Domaine Leflaive.

Fresh colour. But really quite evolved on the nose. It lacks a bit of zip. Better on the palate. Fullish body. Ripe. Some of the four-squareness of Bâtard. Decent follow-through but not special. Now-2015.

Le Montrachet, Domaine Marc Colin.

Made by Pierre-Yves Colin. This got better and better in the glass. Excellent grip. Still very youthful. Very high class fruit as well. Fullish, concentrated, balanced and complex. Perhaps not quite the depth and power of a great Montrachet but very fine. Will still improve. 2011-2025.

RED WINES

Bourgogne, Côte Chalonnaise, La Digoine, Domaine A et P Villaine.

Magnum. Fresh colour. Fullish, ripe, quite meaty. Some tannin. Quite a big wine, really. Very good fruit. Only just ready. Very good indeed for what it is. Now-2016.

Bourgogne, Hautes Côtes de Beaune, Domaine Lucien Jacob.

Medium colour. Fragrant, classy fruit. Juicy and attractive. A point. Delicious. Now-2014.

Givry, Clos Salomon, Domaine du Clos Salomon.

Magnum. Fresh nose. Earthy. Fullish. Good grip. Ripe tannins. Plenty of energy. Very good. Now-2016.

Marsannay, Longeroies, Domaine Bruno Clair.

Medium colour. A gentle, quite succulent wine. Fresh and juicy. A point. Good. Drink soon.

Marsannay, Longeroies, Domaine Fougeray de Beauclair.

Medium colour. Lightish but quite fresh at the end. Slightly empty in the middle. Lacks sophistication. Quite good. Drink soon.

Marsannay, Les Saint Jacques, Domaine Fougeray de Beauclair.

Medium-full body. Slightly ungainly. Lacking class. Lumpy at the end. Only fair. Drink soon.

Chassagne-Montrachet, La Boudriotte, Domaine Nöel Ramonet.

Medium-full colour. Classy, round, fragrant nose. Medium-full body. Balanced, fresh and attractive. No hard edges. Long and positive. Very good indeed, especially for what it is. Now-2018.

Savigny-lès-Beaune, La Dominode, Domaine Jean-Marc Pavelot.

Very good colour. Plenty of size and energy on the nose. Rich, fullish, vigorous and ample on the palate. Good tannins. Only just ready. Plenty of wine here. Very good plus. Now-2020.

Savigny-lès-Beaune, Les Fourneaux, Domaine Chandon de Briailles.

Good colour. Soft, fragrant, sophisticated nose. Medium weight. No great energy or intensity; but fresh and harmonious. A wine which is full of charm. Good plus. Now-2012.

Savigny-lès-Beaune, Les Guettes, Domaine Simon Bize.

Good colour. Very good fruit on the nose. Complex, harmonious, fresh and positive. Intense but not a blockbuster. Lovely long finish. Very good indeed. Now-2017.

Savigny-lès-Beaune, Les Peuillets, Maison Champy.

Magnum. Good colour. Quite a firm, if not rigid nose; even a bit hard and green. Medium to medium-full body. Slightly astringent. Lacks a bit of charm and succulence and may now dry out. Unexciting. Drink soon.

Savigny-lès-Beaune, Les Vergelesses, Domaine Lucien Jacob.

Medium colour. Interesting spice and baked jam nose. Medium-full body. Ripe. No great class but a satisfying, meaty bottle. Now-2015.

Beaune, Les Champs-Pimont, Maison Champy.

Good colour. Soft, ripe, quite graceful nose. Decent fruity attack, but then it tails off a bit. The finish lacks finesse. Quite good at best. Drink soon.

Beaune, Grèves, Vigne de l'Enfant Jesus, Domaine Bouchard Père et Fils.

Medium-full colour. Still youthful. Soft, ripe, round nose. Attractive, charming and with good depth. Coll, composed. Medium-full body. The tannins just about absorbed. Good richness at the end. Harmonious. Just about ready. Very good plus. Now-2017.

Beaune, Grèves, Domaine Michel Lafarge.

Medium-full colour. Round, rich, quite sizeable nose. Plenty of fruit and depth. Fullish body. Some tannin. Quite a muscular wine, as always. But rich and vigorous. Only just ready. Very good. Now-2020.

Beaune, Teurons, Domaine Louis Jadot.

Vigorous colour, beginning to show some signs of maturity. Succulent, sumptuous nose. Very ripe. Medium-full body. Soft and velvety. The tannins now absorbed. Very good acidity. Classy. Really very good indeed. Just about ready. Now-2020 plus.

Blagny, La Pièce sous le Bois, Domaine Thierry et Pascale Matrot.

Medium-full colour. Round nose. Soft and Juicy. Medium to medium-full weight. Good fruit. Plenty of personality, harmony and even class. Long finish. Very good. Now-2017.

Volnay, Premier Cru, Hospices de Beaune, Cuvée Général Muteau, Bottled by Thomas Frères.

Fullish, barely mature colour. Rich, full nose. Quite substantial, but the oak not overdone. Fullish body. Good grip. Some tannin still to evolve, but the tannins are ripe and reasonably sophisticated. This is quite a meaty wine for a Volnay, but it has plenty of depth and no shortage of finesse. Long and quite concentrated on the finish, though it is a little inflexible. Still needs a few years. Very good plus. From 2012.

Volnay, Cailleret, Domaine Nicolas Rossignol.

Fullish colour. Just a touch vegetal/herbal on the nose. Slightly rigid on the palate. Medium to medium-full body. Suspicions of astringency. Lacks real class. Quite good at best. Now-2014.

Volnay, Champans, Domaine du Marquis d'Angerville.

Medium-full colour. Lovely complex, complete nose. Lots of lovely ripe fruit. Absolutely à point. Slendidly harmonious. Lots of energy. Fine plus. Now-2020.

Volnay, Chevret, Domaine Nicolas Rossignol.

Full colour. Stylish nose. Plenty of weight and very good fruit. Medium-full body. A little sweet on the palate. But balanced and fragrant. Positive at the end. Good plus. Now-2016.

Volnay, Clos du Château des Ducs, Domaine Michel Lafarge.

Good colour. Very lovely fragrant nose: typical high-class Volnay. Ripe, succulent, harmonious and elegant. Fullish body. Rich and almost voluptuous. Fullish body. Vigorous. Long on the palate. Better still in two years. Fine. 2011-2025.

Volnay, Clos des Chênes, Domaine Michel Lafarge.

Good colour. Surprisingly open and accessible. Not a bit too firm and tannic. Fullish body. Lots of lovely concentrated fruit. Balanced, long and very lovely. Better still in two years. Fine plus. 2011-2025.

Volnay, Santenots du Milieu, Domaine des Comtes Lafon.

Full colour. Full, ripe, fresh, stylish, vigorous nose. Medium-full body. Now more or less à point but with still a little residual tannin. Lots of depth and plenty of structure. Very well put together. Lots of energy. Profound. Fine. 17.5 Now-2020 plus.

Volnay, Santenots, Domaine Francois Mikulski.

Good, youthful colour. Very lovely nose. Black fruits as well as red. Fulllish body. Round, succulent silky-smooth tannins. Very ripe but with fine supporting acidity. Delicious. 17.5 Now-2020.

Volnay, Taillepieds, Domaine Marquis d'Angerville.

Medium-full colour. Lovely round, ripe, fragrant nose. Very Volnay. On the palate medium-full body. Just about ready. Lots of very lovely complex fruit. Good energy. Very good harmony. It will continue to improve. Long and laid back at the end. Fine plus. Now-2020 plus.

Volnay, Taillepieds, Domaine de Montille.

Medium-full colour. Soft nose. Classy but not very vigorous. Decent fruit on the attack. But then it tails off a bit. Elegant though. But only good plus. Now-2014.

Pommard, Chaponnières, Domaine Billard-Gonnet.

Medium to medium-full colour. Ample, rich, quite meaty nose. Good class. Good tannins. Rich, balanced, sophisticated and long on the palate. Very good plus. Now-2018.

Pommard, Les Croix Noires, Domaine Lucien Boillot et Fils.

Good colour. Decent fruit but not very sophisticated on the nose. Better on the palate. Juicy, fresh and balanced. Good depth. At least some finesse. Good plus. Now-2014.

Pommard, Clos des Epeneaux, Domaine Comte Armand.

Full immature colour. Full, tannic, backward nose. Now beginning to soften up on the palate. Firm and full bodied but rich and concentrated. Tannic but the tannins are very sophisticated. Very good grip. This is very classy for a Pommard. Splendidly profound and abundant. Fine. 2014-2030.

Pommard, Grand Clos des Epenots, Domaine de Courcel.

Good colour. Fine fruit but quite soft and round on the nose; especially after the above. Medium-full body. Rich, succulent and intense. Fresh and enticing. Very good plus. Now-2016.

Pommard, Pezerolles, Domaine Billard-Gonnet.

Medium to medium-full colour. Classy, ripe nose. Good vigour. Medium-full body. Ripe. Sturdier than his Chaponnières. Very good. Now-2016.

Pommard, Les Rugiens, Domaine Jean-Marc Boillot.

Full colour. Fullish, rich, complex, meaty nose. Lovely on the palate. Quite firm still, but rich and concentrated, with lovely balance. Lots of vigorous fruit. Long. Fine. Now-2020.

Pommard, Les Rugiens, Domaine de Montille.

Medium colour. This is a lot better than their Taillepieds. Quite rich and complex on the nose. Good fruit. No great energy but intense and classy. Very good. Now-2016.

Cote de Nuits Villages, La Robignotte, Domaine Gilles Jourdan.

A point. Fullish. Very good grip. Fresh, velvety, ripe and succulent. Lovely finish. Fine for what it is. Now-2016.

Nuits-Saints-Georges, Premier Cru, Domaine Michel Gros.

From Aux Murgers and Aux Vignerondes. Good colour. Fullish, intense nose. Some of the rusticity of Nuits-Saint-Georges nevertheless. Fullish body. Ample, succulent and ripe. Most attractive. Classier on the palate than on the nose. Fine. Now-2019.

Nuits-Saint-Georges, Les Boudots, Domaine J.J. Confuron.

Fullish colour. Rich, almost sweet nose. Fresh, elegant and medium-full bodied. Very good tannins. Very good grip. Gently, but quite markedly oaky. Plenty of quality and depth. Fine plus. Will still improve. 2011-2025.

Nuits-Saint-Georges, Les Boudots, Domaine Dominique Mugneret.

Developed colour. Soft nose, slightly reduced. Not very sophisticated underneath. Better as it aerated in the glass. Not very classy nonetheless on the palate. Difficult to judge but it is certainly not brillaint. Now-2015.

Nuits-Saint-Georges, Les Boudots, Domaine Gérard Mugneret.

Good colour. Mellow nose. Soft and just a bit anonymous at first on the nose. But on the palate medium-full bodied. Very fresh and well-balanced, and no lack of energy. Ripe, round and succulent. Lovely stylish finish. Very good indeed. 2011-2025.

Nuits-Saint-Georges, Les Boudots, Domaine Jean Tardy.

Good colour. Ample, soft, round nose. Seductive if not serious. Medium-full body. Balanced; Quite fresh. Nice and ripe. Very good. Now-2017.

Nuits-Saint-Georges, Les Cailles, Domaine Robert Chevillon.

Good colour. Ripe, round, ample, harmonious and unexpectedly classy on the nose. Medium-full body. Fresh. Balanced. Very good fruit and very good grip. Long, complex and sophisticated. Lovely finish. Fine plus. Now-2020.

Nuits-Saint-Georges, Aux Chaignots, Domaine Joseph Faiveley.

Full colour. Fragrant if slightly tough nose. There is still a little unresolved tannin here. Fullish body. Ripe and well-balanced, indeed rich and of high quality. A little rigid, but it still needs time. Plenty of depth and length. Very good indeed. 2011-2025.

Nuits-Saint-Georges, Les Chaignots, Domaine Georges Mugneret.

Jeroboam. Good colour. Lovely nose. Ample, concentrated and rich. Delicious fruit. Still very vigorous. Fullish body. Rich. Very good grip. Balanced and very classy. Long and lovely. Fine quality. Now-2020.

Nuits-Saint-Georges, Clos des Forêts Saint-Georges. Domaine de l'Arlot.

Good colour. Ripe, fresh, plump nose, with a touch – but not in a perjorative sense – of apples. Medium-full body; ripe, quite rich, very fresh. Individual. Long and complex. Very good plus. Now-2019.

Nuits-Saint-Georges, Les Hauts Poirets, Domaine Jayer-Gilles.

Medium-full colour. Still youthful. Ripe. Oaky. Slightly aggressive but still rich on the nose. Medium-full body. Somewhat roasted. Ripe and quite profound. The oak does not dominate on the palate. Very good plus. Just about ready. Now-2020.

Nuits-Saint-Georges, Les Saint-Georges, Domaine Joseph Faiveley.

Full colour. Like their Chaignots the nose is a little austere, but not as tough. The tannins seem richer. Fullish body. Good grip. A true Nuits-Saint-Georges, with the weight and muscle typical of this climat. But ample and rich and balanced. Long on the palate. Will still improve. Fine. 2012-2028.

Nuits-Saint-Georges, Les Saint-Georges, Domaine Henri Gouges.

Very good colour. Firm, closed, immature nose. Rather hard and green still. Fullish body. Still unresolved tannins. Adolescent. Doesn't sing. It is difficult to see the class and harmony. We'll have to wait and see. 2013-2025.

Nuits-Saint-Georges, Les Vaucrains, Domaine Robert Chevillon.

Good colour. I prefer their Cailles, but this is still very good or better. Full, ample, ripe nose. Just a little stringy on the palate. Suspicions of astringency here. Not quite enough grip. Yet the finish is positive. Now-2015.

Nuits-Saint-Georges, Les Vignerondes, Domaine Daniel Rion et Fils.

Medium-full colour. Just a little lumpy on the nose. Lacks fresh, juicy fruit. Better on the palate; But slightly rigid. Decent grip. Medium-full body. Good vigour. But good at best. Now-2018.

Vosne-Romanée, Aux Réas, Domaine A.F. Gros et Francois Parent.

Magnum. Medium to medium-full colour. Decent volume and class. Ripe, good vigour. Not the greatest harmony and sophistication but good. Now-2015.

Vosne-Romanée, Les Beaux Monts, Domaine J.J. Confuron.

Medium-full colour. Round, rich, profound nose. Full of fruit. Lots of class and depth. Fullish body. Just a little tannin still to be absorbed. Very lovely fruit. Very harmonious too. This is fine plus and still needs a year or two. 2010-2025.

Vosne-Romanée, Les Beaux Monts, Domaine Jean Grivot.

Fullish colour. Vigorous, intense nose Very profound and high class. Very fresh. Still youthful. Fullish body. Some tannin. Lots of lovely fruit underneath. But still needs time. Potentially very fine. 2014-2030.

Vosne-Romanée, Les Beaux-Monts, Domaine Daniel Rion et Fils.

Medium-full colour. Barely mature. Ripe, firm, stylish nose. Medium-full body. Good grip. The tannins are now mellow. Stylish and balanced. Long. Very good indeed. Now-2026.

Vosne-Romanée, Les Brulées, Domaine Engel.

Medium-full colour. Mellow, soft, rich nose. But no lack of vigour. Lovely succulent fruit. Medium-full body. Ripe, fresh, very pure and just about ready. A classic. Long and lovely. Fine plus. Now-2025.

Vosne-Romanée, Les Brulées, Domaine Michel Gros.

Good colour. Very lovely nose. Ripe, rich, succulent, classy and harmonious. Fullish body. Ripe and rich on the palate, vigorous and balanced. Profound pinot fruit here. Very long and very lovely. Very fine. Now-2020.

Vosne-Romanée, Les Brulées, Domaine Méo-Camuzet.

Fullish colour. Full, quite oaky nose. Not quite so oaky on the palate, but nevertheless just about at the limit. Still some tannin. Rich, spicy and earthy on the palate. Full body. Lots of fruit and concentration. Vigorous. Will still improve. Fine plus (for those who like markedly oaky wine). 2012-2028.

Vosne-Romanée, Les Chaumes, Domaine Jean Tardy.

Medium-full colour. Soft, ripe, succulent nose. Gently oaky. Not the greatest concentration or vigour. In fact it eases off at the end. But fresh and agreeable. Very good. now-2018.

Vosne-Romanée, Clos de Réas, Domaine Michel Gros.

Medium-full colour. More vigorous than his Nuits-Saint-Georges, Premier Cru on the nose. Energetic. Concentrated. Full of fruit. Long and lingeringly perfumed. Very classy. Medium-full body. Splendidly balanced and very classy. Very fine. Now-2020.

Vosne-Romanée, Les Gaudichots, Maison Nicolas Potel.

Very lovely, rich, splendidly concentrated, old-viney nose. Full body. Splendid balance. Still some tannin. Real depth and grand cru quality. Very fine. 2011-2030.

Vosne-Romanée, Les Malconsorts, Domaine Sylvain Cathiard.

Magnum. Good colour. Marvelous nose. Very, very lovely harmonious and profound fruit. Essence of Pinot here. Full, vigorous and balanced. Very fine grip. Very fresh. Splendid class. Great length. Only just ready. This is quite brilliant. Very fine indeed. Now-2025.

Vosne-Romanée, Les Malconsorts, Domaine Clos Frantin/Maison Albert Bichot.

Magnum. Good colour. Firm, rich nose. Lots of depth and a touch of new oak. Only just ready. Full body. Concentrated, rich and quite meaty. Lots of energy. Plenty of class. Very fine. Now-2025.

Vosne-Romanée, Les Reignots, Domaine du Vicomte Liger-Belair/Bouchard Père et Fils.

Full colour. Slightly four-square, even a little clumsy on the nose. Medium-full body. Fresh. Just a little unresolved tannin. Good grip and full of fruit. But not the greatest of finesse. Finishes well though. Very good indeed. 2011-2025.

Vosne-Romanée, Les Suchots, Maison Alex Gambal.

Full colour. Still immature. Clean but rather one-dimensional, if not anonymous for a Suchots. Ready. Medium-full body. Lacks depth and richness. Boring. Now-2016.

Vosne-Romanée, Les Suchots, Domaine Gérard Mugneret.

Good colour. Quite firm on the nose. Rich, aromatic. Still with a touch of astringency here. There is still some unresolved tannin. But a lot of concentration underneath. Long and complex and lots of vigour. Fine. 2012-2028.

Chambolle-Musigny, Premier Cru, Domaine J.J. Confuron.

Les Châtelots and Les Feusselottes. Medium-full, youthful colour. Ripe, stylish, mellow nose. Proper Chambolle fruit here. On the palate medium to medium-full body, but still a little austere. Good acidity. Ripe tannins. Lovely fruit. A very elegant wine which will be still better in two years time. Very good indeed. 2011-2026.

Chambolle-Musigny, Les Amoureuses, Domaine Jacques-Frédéric Mugnier.

Fullish, barely mature colour. Delicious, plump, naturally sweet nose. Fullish body. Succulent, balanced, classy and lots of depth. Lots of vigour. Fragrant, subtle and red fruity. Just about ready. Very fine. Now-2030.

Chambolle-Musigny, Les Amoureuses, Domaine Roumier.

Very full colour. Still immature. Rich, concentrated, oaky nose. Still a bit austere. Full and firm on the palate, but underneath excellent grip and depth and a touch of spice. Not as seductive as Mugnier or Vogüé at present. The least open of the three. But very fine plus. 2012-2030.

Chambolle-Musigny, Les Amoureuses, Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé.

Full colour. Quite firm on the nose at first; Rich, mellow, profound, very concentrated and very classy. Full body. Splendid balance and depth. More black fruity than the Mugnier and purer than the Roumier; Marvelous energy at the end. A great wine. 2011-2030.

Chambolle-Musigny, Les Beaux Bruns, Domaine Ghislaine Barthod.

Good colour. Ample, rich, still quite youthful nose. Fullish body. Gently oaky. Fresh and balanced. Good attack. Could have had a bit more class at the end, but very good indeed. Now-2020.

Chambolle-Musigny, Les Beaux Bruns, Domaine Thierry Mortet.

Medium-full colour. Ripe oaky nose. Clean and agreable. Medium to medium-full body. Decent attack and quite fresh and positive. But a little one-dimensional. Good plus. Now-2016.

Chambolle-Musigny, Les Charmes, Domaine Ghislaine Barthod.

Good colour. Lovely nose. More succulent than her Beaux Bruns. Ripe and very seductive. Fullish body. Plenty of energy; Rich and succulent. Balanced and classy. Long. Fine. Now-2020.

Chambolle-Musigny, Les Charmes, Domaine Alan Hudelot-Noëllat.

Medium-full colour. Some development. Ripe, ample, raspberry fruit. Nicely intense if not that vigorous. Medium-full body. Now ready. Balanced and quite stylish, but not the depth and richness of some. Very good. Now-2020.

Chambolle-Musigny, Les Cras, Domaine Ghislaine Barthod.

Fullish colour, still youthful. Full but still compact and slightly hard on the nose. There is still tannin to be absorbed. Fullish body. Rich, tannic and concentrated, but still firm and a bit unyielding. Very lovely Chambolle fruit. Very good grip. Potentially fine. But it needs time. 2013-2030.

Chambolle-Musigny, Les Cras, Domaine Roumier.

Full, firm colour. Full firm nose. Still a little unresolved tannin. Fullish body. Rich but backward. Very good grip. Underneath abundant, pure and classy. This is going to be fine. But it needs time. 2013-2026.

Chambolle-Musigny, Les Fuées, Domaine Jacques-Frédéric Mugnier.

Good colour. Lovely fragrant, Chambolle nose. Delicate but firm enough to lead you to the proximity of Bonnes-Mares rather than Amoureuses. Very fine classy fruit. Medium-full body. Just a touch of residual tannin. Very well balanced and very profound. Lovely now but will still improve. Very fine. Now-2025.

Morey-Saint-Denis, Domaine Lucie et Auguste Lignier.

Ripe, fat, attractive nose. Good vigour. Rich fruit. Clean, harmonious, profound and complex. Very good indeed for a village wine. Bravo! Now-2018.

Morey-Saint-Denis, Premier Cru, Cuvée des Alouettes, Domaine Ponsot.

Full, youthful colour. Firm nose. Still very young. Fullish body. Still some tannin. Quite a mouthful. Very lovely, cool fruit. Complex and classy. Long and very lovely. Very fine. 2012-2030.

Morey-Saint-Denis, Clos Baulet, Maison Frédéric Magnien.

Medium-full colour. Slightly rigid on the nose. Lots of oak. Decent fruit and grip; but a little too structured. Yet it finishes better than it stars. And the fruit is fresh. Very good. Now-2020.

Morey-Saint-Denis, Clos de la Bussière, Domaine Georges Roumier;

Good colour. Rich, full, ample nose. More sophisticated than hitherto. (Something I noticed last year). Yet a little constrained on the palate. A bit tight. Decent grip. Good fruit. It may evolve out of this, but it's only good plus today. Now-2018.

Morey-Saint-Denis, La Riotte, Cuvée Romain Lignier, Domaine Lucie et Auguste Lignier.

Medium-full colour. Lovely nose. Harmonious, vigorous, succulent and gently oaky. On the palate not the greatest grip and concentration, but lovely fresh, stylish fruit nonetheless. Positive at the end. Very good indeed. Just about ready. Now-2020.

Gevrey-Chambertin, Vieilles Vignes, Domaine Denis Bachelet.

Good colour. Very lovely, harmonious, fresh, intensely-flavoured wine. Real finesse. Medium-full body. This is very lovely. Now-2018.

Gevrey-Chambertin, Mes Favorites, Vieilles Vignes, Domaine Alain Burguet.

Good colour. Just a little four-square. But full of fruit. Good structure. Plenty of energy at the end. Very good. Now-2018.

Gevrey-Chambertin, Les Cazetiers, Domaine Bruno Clair.

Two samples on different occasions. The first as follows. The second a bit weak. Full, barely mature colour. Ripe, rich nose, but still a little austere. Fullish body on the palate. The tannins now just about absorbed. But the wine is still a little raw. Lovely fruit. Very long and complex. Ripe, pure and balanced. Richer and richer as it developed in the glass. Very lovely. 2011-2028.

Gevrey-Chambertin, Les Cazetiers, Domaine Christian Serafin.

Good colour. Spicy nose. With a touch of oak and bonfires. Still a bit closed. Slightly strange cardboardy aspects on the palate and a touch of reduction. Difficult to judge.

Gevrey-Chambertin, Les Cazetiers, Domaine Michel Magnien.

Good colour. Very clean, fresh, pure nose. Not a hint of over-extraction, yet made by Frédéric Magnien (see elsewhere). Medium-full body. Very good grip. Complex. Long. Very promising fruit. Lovely finish. Fine plus. Just about ready. Now-2020.

Gevrey-Chambertin, En Champs, Domaine Denis Mortet.

Very good colour. Fullish, rather reduced nose. Quite oaky. A bit over-done. Big, extracted and burly. Lacks grace. No lack of energy though. Now-2014.

Gevrey-Chambertin, Clos Prieur, Domaine Thierry Mortet.

Village appellation contrôlée. Medium-full colour. Round, ripe, succulent and full of juicy fruit. Not the greatest finesse but balanced, long and positive. Very good for a village wine. Now-2016.

Gevrey-Chambertin, Clos Prieur, Domaine Rossignot-Trapet.

Premier Cru. Good colour. Fresh, vigorous, classy nose. Only just ready. Fullish body, meaty, balanced and classy. Plenty of depth and lots of style. Long and positive. Fine plus. Now-2025.

Gevrey-Chambertin, Clos Saint-Jacques, Domaine Bruno Clair.

Medium-full colour. Classy and fragrant but a little delicate on the nose. Like the Cazetiers at the ten year on tasting, I would have expected more vigour and depth. To be reviewed.

Gevrey-Chambertin, Clos Saint-Jacques, Domaine Louis Jadot.

Fine, barely mature colour. Very lovely nose. Very rich, full, intense and concentrated. Medium-full body. The tannins just about absorbed. Splendid fruit. Excellent grip. Very, very classy. Very fine indeed. 2011-2030.

Gevrey-Chambertin, Aux Combottes, Domaine Dujac.

Medium-full colour. Soft, fragrant, ripe, fresh nose. Medium-full body. Rich. Still youthful. Plenty of energy and lots of class. This will still inprove. 2012-2025.

Gevrey-Chambertin, Les Corbeaux, Domaine Denis Bachelet.

Medium-full colour. Marvelous fruit on the nose. This is full bodied, rich and very, very concentrated. It will still improve. Splendid class and real harmony. Very long finish. Very fine. 2012-2030.

Gevrey-Chambertin, Les Corbeaux, Domaine Lucien Boillot et Fils.

Medium-full colour. Slightly dead fruit on the nose. Slight astringency on the palate. Medium body; Rather coarse. Now-2012.

Gevrey-Chambertin, Estournelles-Saint-Jacques, Domaine Humbert Frères.

Good colour. Classy nose. Very fresh, but soft. Slightly more open than the majority of these Gevreys. Medium-full body. Now à point. Lovely complex, classy, fresh fruit. Lots of depth. Long finish. Fine plus. Now-2020.

Gevrey-Chambertin, Lavaux-Saint-Jacques, Domaine Claude Dugat.

Full immature colour. Backward but very rich and concentrated on the nose. Very lovely fruit. Fullish body. Still some tannin. But very fine fruit and lots of depth. Very lovely finish. Fine plus. 2014-2030.

Gevrey-Chambertin, Lavaux-Saint-Jacques, Domaine Denis Mortet.

Full colour. Quite full and extracted on both the nose and the palate. But not too much so. Rich and meaty, yet fresh and succulent. Still needs time. Not the greatest of class but very good. 2012-2022.

Gevrey-Chambertin, Petite Chapelle, Domaine Dupont Tisserandot.

Medium-full colour. Ripe, positive, fresh, vigorous nose. Fullish, meaty, fresh and rich on the palate. Not the greatest of depth and personality but clean and well made. Will still improve. Very good indeed. 2012-2025.

Corton, Bressandes, Domaine Chandon de Briailles.

Medium-full colour. Rich, aromatic nose. Obviously whole cluster maceration. Lovely balance and classy depth. Fullish body. Ripe, complex and very delicious. Just about ready. Lovely finish. Very fine. Now-2025.

Corton, Clos des Cortons, Domaine Faiveley.

Full barely mature colour. Full nose, but rich underneath. Quite oaky. Fullish body. Tannic. Slightly rigid. Very good fruit. But I don't think the armour will ever soften. 2013-2023.

Corton, Clos du Roi, Maison Vincent Girardin.

Full colour. Still immature. Quite a tough nose. Some tannin. Still raw. Fullish body. Meaty. Very good cool fruit. The tannins on the palate are more sophisticated than the nose would indicate. Very good grip. Classy. Fine. 2013-2028.

Corton, Pougets, Domaine Louis Jadot.

Good colour. The merest hint of maturity. Some tannin on the nose. Still firm. But rich, fragrant and classy. Fullish body. Lots of depth. Ripe and potentially succulent. Good acidity. Very pure. Really good for a Corton. Fine plus. 2012-2030.

Echézeaux, Domaine Dujac.

Medium colour. Rather more Dujac on the nose than Echézeaux, in contrast to Dujac's other wines. Medium-to medium-full body. Intense and fragrant. Fresh and balanced. But a slight lack of personality and terroir definition. Very good plus. Just about ready. Now-2018.

Echézeaux, Domaine René Engel.

Soft, ripe, rich, generous, nose. Medium to medium-full body. Fragrant. Still some tannin. Balanced and classy. Lots of depth. Lovely finish. Very pure. Fine. 2011-2025.

Grands-Echézeaux, Domaine Clos Frantin/Maison Albert Bichot.

Good colour. Rich, firm nose. Lots of class. A little oak. Not yet ready. Full body. Fresh. Very good grip. Round and profound. Still some tannin to resolve. Distinguished. Long. Fine plus. 2012-2030.

Grands-Echézeaux, Domaine René Engel.

This is quite a big wine, in contrast to his Echézeaux. Full colour. Plenty of weight and still quite a bit of tannin to resolve. Very fine concentrated fruit. Very good grip. Vigorous and profound and very high class. Very fine plus. Still quite a way from maturity. 2013-2030.

Clos de Vougeot, Domaine René Engel.

Good colour. Like his Grands-Echézeaux this is quite a big wine. Rich, full meaty nose. Plenty of class and plenty of fruit. Still a little unresolved tannin to be absorbed. Good grip. Fullish body. Ripe and succulent. Long and satisfying. Very fine. 2013-2030.

Clos de Vougeot, Maupertuis, Domaine Anne Gros.

Good colour. Very, very lovely rich, concentrated, poised, gently oaky nose. Quite a marvelous perfume here! Fullish body. Very fine ripe tannins. Excellent fruit and impeccable harmony. A great wine. Is this the best Clos de Vougeot since Jean Gros' 1985? 2012-2030.

Clos de Vougeot, 'Musigni', Domaine Gros Frère et Soeur.

Good colour. Ripe, quite open, succulent nose. Very good fruit. Fullish body. Still a little tannin to resolve. Rich and spicy. Still a little hard on the palate. Not the very greatest class but fine. 2012-2025.

Clos de Vougeot, Domaine Leroy.

Fullish colour. A litle maturity now. Ripe, round nose. Not unduly tannic. Lovely classy fruit. This fullish bodied, ample, rich, exotic and aromatic. Just a smidgen of tannin still to resolve. Very good grip. Lots of depth. Ripe, cool and very fine. 2011-2030.

Romanée-Saint-Vivant, Domaine Alain Hudelot-Noëllat.

Full, rich colour. Just about mature. Classy, fragrant intense but not heavyweight nose. Medium-full body. Very lovely fruit underpinned by subtle oakiness. Now soft and round, but with plenty of energy. Very good tannins. Very good grip. Complex, long and high-class. Very Chambolle-ish. Very fine plus. Now-2020 plus.

Romanée-Saint-Vivant, Domaine de la Romanée-Conti.

Good colour. Very lovely nose. Now just about ready. Splendid fruit here. Medium-full body. Marvelously intense, harmonious and classy. Very long. Very complex. Very fine plus. Will still improve. 2011-2030.

Richebourg, Domaine Anne Gros.

Full colour. Still youthful. Marvelous, poised, concentrated, aristocratic nose. Immense depth. Rich, fat, full-bodied and very beautiful on the palate. Excellent grip and vigour. Multi-dimensional and very complex. Will still improve. Indisputably great. 2011-2035.

Richebourg, Domaine A.F. Gros et Francois Parent.

Fullish colour. Decently fruity, but without the class, depth and concentration it should have. Medium-full body. Good grip. On the palate it is rather better than on the nose. Lovely fruit, and certainly has distinction. Fine but not great. Still needs time. 2012-2028.

Richebourg, Domaine Gros Frère et Soeur.

Magnum. Good colour. Rich, full, ample and really quite classy on the nose. Fullish body. Still needs time. Finely concentrated and very good grip. Rich and vigorous and lovely at the end. Very fine. 2014-2030.

Richebourg, Domaine Alain Hudelot-Noëllat.

Strangely, the colour is more advanced than his Romanée-Saint-Vivant. Yet this is a much bigger wine. Distinct signs of brown at the rim. But full, rich and vigorous on the nose. Succulent, classy and black-fruity. Aromatic, fat and quite structured. Plenty of energy, especially at the end. Will still improve. This has a very lovely multi-dimensional finish. Very fine indeed. 2010-2025.

Musigny, Domaine Jacques-Frédéric Mugnier.

Good colour. Lovely, round, ripe, complex nose. Very classy wine here. Fullish body. Intense, refined and fragrant. Very lovely harmony. Very long. Excellent. 2012-2035.

Musigny, Vieilles Vignes, Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé.

Good colour. Firm, full, rich and fresh on the nose. Still very youthful. Fullish body. Rich. Excellent tannins. Very harmonious and very concentrated. Very lovely finish. Brilliant. 2014-2040.

Bonnes-Mares. Domaine Fougeray de Beauclair.

Medium-full colour. Slightly four-square but no lack of class on the nose. Medium-full body. Decent fruit. Ample and fresh, but without the concentration and finesse it should have. Very good at best. Just about ready. Now-2020.

Bonnes-Mares, Maison Frédéric Magnien.

Good colour. Slightly over-extracted and rather too oaky on the nose. A bit brutal. Fullish body. Rich but tough and rigid. But underneath lovely balanced fruit. A pity. Now-2020.

Bonnes-Mares, Domaine Georges Roumier.

Good colour. Full, firm nose. Rich but still closed-in. Lots of class. Fullish body. Very lovely fresh, concentrated, distinguished fruit. Still a bit of tannin to resolve. Long. Very, very lovely. Very fine plus. 2014-2038.

Bonnes-Mares, Domaine Comte Georges de Vogûé.

Geed colour. Very closed-in, more so than the Musigny. Yet very lovely, concentrated rich fruit here. Quite a different flavour from the Roumier. Slightly less spicy. Still very youthful. Full body. Rich. Very long and lovely. Very fine plus. 2014-2040.

Clos de Tart, Domaine Mommessin.

Good colour. Full and still immature. Very fine super-concentrated nose of great class and depth. Excellent grip. Still a little tannin to be absorbed. Intense, vigorous and very lovely. Very fine plus. 2014-2030 plus.

Clos des Lambrays, Domaine des Lambrays.

Good colour. Very lovely, silky-smooth, rich, ripe fruit on the nose. Balanced and very classy. Medium-full body. Fragrant and intense. Very harmonious. Lots of finesse. Just about ready. Very fine. Now-2025.

Clos Saint-Denis, Domaine Michel Magnien.

Good colour. Ample, rich, succulent nose. No undue extraction here. Classy, but not quite the dimension of Dujac's Clos de la Roche. But lovely fruit nevertheless. Medium-full body. Long at the end. Fine. 2012-2025.

Clos de la Roche, Domaine Pierre Amiot.

Good colour. Rich, fat, ample nose. Fullish body. A nice creamy aspect to the fruit. Fresh, harmonious and classy. Fine. 2011-2028.

Clos de la Roche, Domaine Dujac.

Good colour. Rather more personality and originality than their Echézeaux. Very good, ripe, rich, fresh fruit on the nose and palate. Medium-full body. Long and stylish and complex. Very fine.. 2011-2028.

Clos de la Roche, Domaine Lucie et Auguste Lignier.

Good colour. Full, rich and a touch on new wood on the nose. Still very youthful. Full body. Still has tannin to resolve. Rich and meaty. Long. Vigorous. Potentially very fine. 2014-2030.

Chapelle-Chambertin, Domaine Louis Jadot.

Full colour. Now some development. Complex, classy, full, rich nose. Lots of quality here. Full bodied. Still some tannin. Splendid depth and vigour. Very good grip. Long, rich and concentrated. Very lovely, plump cassis fruit. Very fine. 2012-2028.

Chapelle-Chambertin, Domaine Jean et Jean-Louis Trapet.

Full colour. Rich, full, ample, meaty nose. Still a little closed. Fullish body. A little tannin still to resolve. Meaty but not that classy. Yet good grip and plenty of depth. Very good indeed. 2013-2025.

Charmes-Chambertin, Domaine Denis Bachelet.

Good colour. Still a bit tight on the nose, but great class here. On the palate full body. A little closed-in. There is all that there should be even if it doesn't quite sing today. Potentially excellent. 2013-2040.

Charmes-Chambertin, Maison Joseph Drouhin.

Medium to medium-full colour. Now just about mature. Soft, elegant, Chambolle-ish nose. Very fragrant. Surprisingly intense. Admirable fruit. Medium-full body. Long, subtle and laid-back. Lovely. Just about ready. Now-2025.

Charmes-Chambertin, Domaine Dujac.

Good colour. Plenty of depth on the nose. A little more backbone than the Clos de la Roche. Fresh, plump, generous and vigorous. Fine plus. 2012-2030.

Charmes-Chambertin, Domaine Humbert Frères.

Good colour. Plump, ripe and concentrated on the nose, if no great volume or backbone. Balanced and stylish. Gently oaky. Medium-full body. Creamy rich, long and complex. A point now. Very fine. Now-2025.

Griotte-Chambertin, Domaine Joseph Drouhin.

Good colour. Rich, fragrant, succulent nose. Good weight. Still a bit of tannin to resolve. At first slightly austere but mellowed in the glass. Medium-full body. Lovely fruit and balance. Long, classy and delicious. Very fine plus. 2011-2025.

Latricières-Chambertin, Maison Vincent Girardin.

Fullish colour. Now just about mature. Ample, ripe and fragrant on the nose. Fullish body. Concentrated. Very lovely, ripe, concentrated fruit. The tannins now just about absorbed. Rich and complex at the end. This is fine plus. Now-2028.

Latricières-Chambertin, Domaine Louis Remy.

Good colour. Still very youthful. Ample nose. Full and rich with a touch of spice. Fullish body. Ripe tannins. Lots of juicy fruit and plenty of depth. Really quite high class too. Good grip. Long. Slightly earthy. Will still improve. Lovely finish. Fine. 2010- 2025.

Mazis-Chambertin, Domaine Dupont-Tisserandot.

Good colour. Fresh, ample, vigorous nose. No lack of depth or quality. Fullish body. Balanced. Quite meaty. Fine quality. 2012-2030.

Mazis-Chambertin, Maison Champy.

Medium colour. Pedestrian nose. Herbaceous in the sense of lawn-mower clippings. Astringent. Medium to medium-full body. Ripe but rather coarse. Now-2016.

Ruchottes-Chambertin, Domaine Christophe Roumier.

Full colour. Still very youthful. Cool, full bodied, rich and concentrated. Very fine classy fruit here. Intense and pure. Balanced and profound. The tannins just about absorbed. Vigorous, long and complex. Very lovely. Very fine. Now-2028.

Ruchottes-Chambertin, Clos des Ruchottes, Domaine Armand Rousseau.

Medium-full colour. Hints of maturity. Lovely high-toned, fragrant nose. Medium-full body. Harmonious. Subtle. By no means a blockbuster. Full of soft, plump, very well-balanced fruit. Long. Fine plus. Just about ready. Now-2025.

Chambertin, Clos de Bèze, Domaine Joseph Faiveley.

Full colour. The nose is still closed-in, but not a bit rigid. Lots of wine here. Full body. Very good tannins. Very good grip. Rich, concentrated, backward wine. Very fine quality, but needs time. 2015-2038.

Chambertin, Clos de Bèze, Maison Frédéric Magnien.

Good colour. Fresh, ripe and balanced on the nose. Even classy. But not the depth of this climat. Very lovely fruit on the palate though. Not over-done. Medium-full body. Fresh, balanced and stylish. Fine plus. Just about ready. Now-2025.

Chambertin, Clos de Bèze, Domaine Armand Rousseau.

Good colour. Slightly more aromatic on the nose than their Chambertin. Higher-toned. Less backbone, tannin and structure. Very lovely fruit. Fullish, rich. Balanced and very, very lovely. The Chambertin is better, as it always is. But this is more approachable today. Very fine indeed. Just about ready. Now-2030.

Chambertin, Domaine Rossignol-Trapet;

Magnum. Full colour. Very lovely, rich, concentrated nose. Not yet mature but highly promising. Full body. Excellent fruit. This really is splendid. Real class and very fine grip. Very fine indeed. 2014-2040.

Chambertin, Domaine Armand Rousseau.

Fullish colour. Splendid rich, concentrated, profound nose. Very impressive! Fullish body. Lovely ripe tannins. Very harmonious, simply delicious fruit. A great wine. Quite approachable now but better in three years. 2012-2035. A magnum at the ten-year on tasting was equally marked great, but not ready until 2015.

Chambertin, Domaine Jean et Jean-Louis Trapet.

Full colour. Fine, full closed-in nose. Rich and concentrated.Still needs time. Rich and meaty. Quite structured and powerful. Lovely fruit. Full body. Very fine. 2014-2035.