1990 Burgundy - Twenty Years On
Rating for the Vintage: Red: 18.5 White:16.5
The Size of the Crop
(in hectolitres, excluding generic wines)
Red White
Grands Crus 14117 668
Village and Premiers Crus 188573 51926
TOTAL 202690 55594
The 1990s decade was book-ended by two large and highly satisfactory vintages: 1990 and 1999. Both years were easy for the vignerons, the weather conditions being pretty well ideal. All you had to do was not screw up nature's bounty. If 1999 can be criticised it is that the harvest was just too large to give that final snap of real concentration that seperates the splendid from the really great. If one was to cast aspersions on the1990s it is that the fruit is a little cooked – in the sense of the difference between a fresh plum and a cooked plum tart; and hence that the wines taste more of 1990 than they do of their origins. Nevertheless there is no lack of differentiation between, say the Chambolles and the Gevreys. Furthermore the red wines are consistenty good both geographically and up and down the hierarchy.
An early and mild start to the growing season produced a prolific sortie of buds, but the weather then deteriorated in June and the flowering was long and drawn out, producing both coulure and millerandage. Thenceforth it was both hot and very dry, causing some hydric stress among the younger plants and disallowing the tardy parts of the Burgundian vignoble the chance to catch up. Rain was essential, and happily at the end of August 80 mm fell in one week. Just what the doctor ordered. Thereafter the vines rapidly finshed their cycle and the harvest was able to take place under sunny skies and in ideal conditions.
From the outset the 1990 vintage threatened to be too large. In retrospect it was essential to cut down the potential quantity, and as early as possible – at the time if the fruit-setting after the flowering at the latest. Those who restricted their vines to below 40 hl/ha produced wines of concentration and longevity. Others were forced to perform a saigner, which is a useful technique, but one which by its very nature must be approximative guesswork. In fact 1990 turned out to be a vintage where a small error in the yield did not have too deleterious affect on the wine's quality. The fact that the vast quantity of the premiers crus (let alone the grands crus) the team unearthed from their own cellars could still be held five if not more years is testimony to the success of the vintage. It was a splendid tasting.
The Tasting
A group of us meet in Guilford, CT, towards the end of March, every year, at a tasting hosted by Bob Feinn of Mount Carmel Wine and Spirits. This is what we tasted in 2010. On the same trip to the USA, I sampled other 1990s in Atlanta and Pittsburgh. Strangely there were no duplicates.
White Wines
Auxey-Duresses, Les Boutonniers, Domaine d'Auvenay. Drink soonRich, fat full, vigorous and with just a hint of oak on the nose. On the palate, the fruit has faded a bit, and the wine lacks a little charm. Better with food. Still good.
Meursault, Les Charmes, Domaine des Comtes Lafon. Now-2015Quite a developed colour and nose, but on the palate the wine is fresh and juicy with a nice touch of underlying oak. Very much still alive. Full bodied, complex and classy. Fine. Can still be kept.
Meursault, Perrières, Maison Louis Jadot.Now-2015Very good youthful colour. Ripe, mineral, very gently oaky nose. Lots of depth and energy. Fullish body. Just a little age beginning to show on the palate. Rather better with food. Lacks a bit of charm and is getting a bit four square, yet still very good indeed.
Puligny-Montrachet, Les Pucelles, Domaine Leflaive. Drink SoonQuite a developed colour. Rather neutral on the nose. No great class or definition but balanced and reasonably fresh. Positive at the end, but a lack of vibrancy and class. Good rather than great.
Puligny-Montrachet, Les Referts, Domaine Etienne Sauzet. Past its bestOld colour. Too maderised to be enjoyable any longer. Yet good fruit and depth. Other bottles may still be very good indeed.
Corton-Charlemagne, Domaine Louis Latour. Now-2015 Broad nose. Not very Corton-Charlemagne. Fullish on the nose. Oaky and youthful. Quiteconcentrated on the palate. Profound and complex and nicely ripe at the end. Fine.
Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet, Domaine Ramonet. Now-2020Fresh, green-gold colour. Profound nose. Still youthful for a 20 year old wine. Lots of quality here. Very fine grip. Multi-dimensional. Full body. Very fine. Seems as if it will last for a good ten years yet.
Chevalier-Montrachet, Les Demoiselles, Domaine Louis Latour. Past its bestOld, orange colour. Very oxidised. Undrinkable.
Musigny Blanc, Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé. Now-2018No undue maturity on the colour. Fresh nose. Rich and individual, with just a hint of oak. Ripe, complex and classy. Very delicious and not a bit like a Meursault or a Puligny. No hurry to drink.
RED WINES
COTE DE BEAUNE
Santenay, Clos des Tavannes, Domaine de la Pousse d'Or. Past its bestQuite an old colour. Old on the nose. This was a fullish wine with good ripe, sturdy fruit. Now well past its best.
Chassagne-Montrachet, Les Morgeots, Domaine Duc de Magenta/Louis Jadot.. Drink soonGood colour. Full, rich, healthy nose. A meaty wine with a lot of depth and vigour. Fresh on the palate. A sturdy wine for food. Good energy at the end. Good.
Beaune, Les Epenottes, Domaine André Mussy. Past its bestFullish, well matured colour. Somewhat rustic nose. Dried out on the palate. Was reasonably ripe, if never very elegant. Now past its best.
Beaune, Grèves, Domaine Thomas-Moillard. Now-2020Big, rich nose. Full, concentrated, very typically 1990 on the nose. Lots of depth and lovely fruit. Fully ready, but with plenty of vigour. Impressive.
Beaune, Clos des Mouches, Domaine Joseph Drouhin. Now-2015Full colour. No undue age; Rich, balanced nose. Good grip, good fruit. Fullish body. Meaty. This is a wine which needs food, but it is very good. Still plenty of future.
Volnay, Les Champans, Domaine Hubert de Montille. Now-2015 plusFull colour; still youthful. Ripe, very Volnay on the nose. Fullish body. Still lots of vigour. Good energy and very good grip. Impressive fruit. Lovely harmonious finish. The most vigorous of his Volnays. Very good indeed.
Volnay, Clos des Chênes, Domaine Michel Lafarge. Now-2020Full colour. Still very vigorous. Rich, full, energetic nose. Splendidly succulent, fresh and youthful. Very lovely fruit. Intense and classy and multi-dimensional. Bags of life ahead of it still. Very fine.
Volnay, Les Mitans, Domaine Hubert de Montille. Now-2013Full colour, still very fresh. Good nose. Fragrant and a bit more delicate than the Champans. Medium body. Soft. Balanced. Still round and vigorous but getting towards the end. Very good.
Volnay, Les Taillepieds, Domaine Hubert de Montille. Drink soonFull colour; à point. A bit more evolved than the Champans on the nose. And on the palate too. Just a little astringency taking over. Yet ripe and balanced and classy. This was perhaps even better than the Champans originally, but it is beginning to lack fruit. Best with food.
Pommard, Clos des Epeneaux, Domaine du Comte Armand.Now-2020Very full colour. Rich, sturdy nose. Good tannins. Full body. Ripe, plummy, vigorous and profound. Long and meaty and still very virile on the palate. Bags of life. Fine.
Pommard, Grand Clos des Epenots, Domaine de Courcel.Now-2015Full, mature colour. Good classy, fragrant nose. Medium-full body. Good grip. Well-balanced if without the weight and intensity of the Comte Armand. Still plenty of life. Very good indeed.
Pommard, Clos des Epenots, Maison Camille Giroud. Now-2013Full, mature colour. Rich nose. Succulent. Very good tannins. Typical Epenots. Not the power of the Clos des Epeneaux but with very elegant fruit. Very good grip. Just a suggestion now of impending astringency. But fine.
Pommard, Les Rugiens; Domaine Hubert de Montille. Now-2015Full colour. A point. Ripe, rich, suculent nose. Full body. Vigorous. Elegant for a Rugiens. Splendidly rich. Good follow through. Long. Fine. No hurry to drink.
COTE DE NUITS
Nuits-Saint-Georges, Aux Meurgers, Domaine Méo-Camuzet. Now-2015Full, youthful colour. Sizeable on the nose. A little four-square, but neither too macerated nor too oaky. Fullish body. A little too extracted on the palate. Yet good grip and an intense follow through. Really quite concentrated. Very good but by no means fine. A bit tiring to drink.
Nuits-Saint-Georges, Les Saint-Georges, Domaine Henri Gouges. Now-2020 plusGood full, mature colour. Vigorous nose. Rich, complete, classic, ripe Pinot fruit. Fullish body. Very sophisticated tannins. Smooth and velvety. Fine grip. A very lovely wine. Nuits-Saint-Georges doesn't come better than this. Very fine.
Vosne-Romanée, Les Brulées, Domaine Méo-Camuzet. Now-2016Fullish mature colour. A slight reduction on the nose. A bit four square as well. Not as rigid as the Meurgers and somewhat more together. Fullish. A bit over-macerated nevertheless. And this detracts from the style. Good grip though. Very good plus.
Vosne-Romanée, Les Chaumes, Domaine Jean Tardy. Now-2015 plusMedium colour. Fully mature. Ripe nose, soft and gently oaky. Fresh and stylish. Medium-full body. Still lots of energy. Just a little sweet. But good grip and balance. Tardy's wines today can be a bit bland. This isn't. It's a most enjoyable, charming wine.
Vosne-Romanée, Les Malconsorts, Domaine Hudelot-Noëllat. Now-2018 plusFullsh, mature colour. Smoky, mocha nose. Attractive and vigorous. Fullish body. Good balance. Lots of depth and style and energy. Complex. Long on the finish. Fine.
Vosne-Romanée, Clos de Réas, Domaine Jean Gros. Now-2018 plusMedium-full colour. No undue age. Very lovely rich, definitive fruit. Real elegance and complexity. Medium-full body. Fresh. Very harmonious and stylish. Lovely.
Chambolle-Musigny, Les Amoureuses, Domaine Joseph Drouhin.in good conditionGood colour. Rather old and tired and oxidised on the nose. Still judgeable on the palate. There was once very lovely fragrant fruit here plus a very good grip. This bottle is past its best.
Chambolle-Musigny, Les Gruenchers, Domaine Dujac. Now-2016Medium colour. Quite developed. Much more Dujac than Chambolle. The stems, a little sweetness, purity and good acidity Spicy, but less substance and richness that, for example, their Clos Saint-Denis. Very fresh and long on the palate. Very good indeed.
Morey-Saint-Denis, En La Rue de Vergy, Domaine Bruno Clair. Now-2015Medium-full colour. Fully mature. Quite an evolved nose. More character than the Henri Perrot-Minot. Good fruit. Good freshness. Clean and long. Good plus.
Morey-Saint-Denis, En La Rue de Vergy, Domaine Henri Perrot-Minot. Now-2015Medium-full colour. Fully mature. Plump nose. Good succulence. Medium body. Good freshness. But not a great deal of depth or interest. Quite good. No hurry to drink.
Morey-Saint-Denis, Premier Cru, Vieilles Vignes, Domaine Hubert Lignier. Now-2015Medium-full colour. Fully mature; Not much on the nose at first. Round, ripe, fresh, plump fruit with a tough of wood. Good depth. Medium-full body. Positive follow through. Very good.
Gevrey-Chambertin, Les Cazetiers, Domaine Joseph Faiveley. Now-2015Very good colour. Inexpressive and somewhat rigid nose. The usual rather dry, woody hints of Faiveley wines at this time. Good substance and ripe, rich fruit nonetheless. Very good indeed.
Gevrey-Chambertin, Aux Combottes, Domaine Dujac. Now-2016Good colour. Well developed, typically Dujac nose. Sweet, very good acidity, slight hints of bubble gum. Plus the stems, of course. Medium to medium-full body. Balanced. Very ripe. Still very fresh; Most enjoyable but lacks a little grand cru dimension.
GRANDS CRUS
Corton, Clos des Cortons Faiveley, Domaine Joseph Faiveley. Now-2015 plusFull, mature colour. Rich, very oaky nose. Less oaky on the palate and the oak here less rigid. Vibrant, lush, balanced. Very good acidity. Fullish body. Still vigorous. Long and stylish. Fine plus.
Château Corton Grancey, Domaine Louis Latour. Now-2014Developed, medium to medium-full colour. Spicy, mocha nose, a little loose-knit now. Not much class. Better on the palate. Medium body. Noy a lot of vigour, but soft and ripe and fresh and enjoyable.
Corton, Perrières, Domaine Michel Juillot. Drink soonGood fresh colour. Not a lot of generosity on the nose, which is a little bitter. Medium to medium-full body. Slightly dry. Decent fruit, class and freshness but a lack of richness on the after taste.
Echézeaux, Domaine Dujac. Now-2020Good fullish colour. Ripe, fragrant, fat and rich on the nose. Lovely fruit. Medium-full body. Vigorous nevertheless. Sophisticated, intense and beautifully balanced. Fine plus.
Echézeaux, Domaine de la Romanée-Conti. Now-2020Good vigorous colour. Splendid ripe, rich, concentrated fruit on the nose. Round and succulent. Lots of depth, Fullish body, rich, vigorous and classy. Lots of depth and, above all, vigour. Still young. lovely.
Clos de Vougeot, Domaine Robert Arnoux. Now-2018 plusMedium-full colour. Fragrant nose. Quietly stylish but slightly gamey. Medium-full body. Ripe, round, good grip and tannins. Mellow but vigorous. Really quite concentrated. Long, complex and energetic. Lovely fruit. Very fine.
Clos de Vougeot, Domaine Joseph Faiveley.Now-2018Good colour. Rich if a little rigid on the nose. Good ripe fruit but a slight lack of nuance. Fullish body. Balanced. Ripe and juicy. A touch of unresolved tannin. Yet very good fruit. Long. But the oak tends to dominate, especially at the end. Very good indeed but not fine.
Clos de Vougeot, 'Maupertuis', Domaine Anne et Francois Gros. Now-2020 plusFullish colour. Very high class fruit on the nose. Fullish body. Marvelous equilibrium. Concentrated, energetic, harmonious and profound. Vigorous, complex and multi-dimensional. Lovely finish. Very fine plus.
Clos de Vougeot, 'Musigni', Domaine Gros Frère et Soeur. Now-2018Medium-full, mature colour. Not a lot on the nose. Medium to medium-full body. Ripe and balanced. Round and classy. Fragrant and charming. Long and positive. Fine.
Clos de Vougeot, Domaine Alain Hudelot-Noëllat. Now-2018Medium-full mature colour. Nicely spicy on the nose. Interestingly gamey. Medium-full body. Balanced. Good grip. Vigorous. Fine.
Clos de Vougeot, Château de la Tour, Domaine Labet. Now-2014Fullish, fresh nose. Ripe nose. Good vigour. Good depth. Medium-full body. It has lost a little of its fruit, but was not as austere with food as it was on its own, and still very enjoyable. The finish is quite profound and quite classy.
Clos de Vougeot, Domaine Daniel Rion et Fils. Now-2018Full colour. Still youthful. Ripe, slightly spicy nose. Attractive gamey character. Medium-full body. Balanced and most enjoyable if no great depth and finesse. Long and vigorous. Very good indeed.
Romanée-Saint-Vivant, Domaine J.J. Confuron. Now-2018Fullish colour. A touch of reduction at first but this blew off. Not, though, really top grand cru quality. It is a bit four square. Rich, concentrated and really quite intense and powerful nevertheless. But a tough rigid at the end. Fine at best.
Romanée-Saint-Vivant, Domaine Louis Jadot. Now-2020 plusVery fine, full, just about mature colour. Marvelous nose. This is very fine indeed. All the glory of great Burgundy. Fullish body. Multi-dimentional. Excellent harmony. Splendid fruit. Real energy and complexity on the follow through. Brilliant!
Richebourg, Domaine Jean Grivot. Now-2020 plusFullish colour. Still quite closed in on the nose. Marvelous concentration on the palate. Full body, creamy and rich. Great class and marvelous fruit. Very, very long and energetic. Everything in place. A truly great wine.
Richebourg, Domaine A.F. Gros. Now-2020 plusFullish colour. Just a touch of reduction at first, but very fine concentrated fruit underneath. Lovely harmony. Fullish body. Splendid fragrance as it developed. This is the same wine as that labelled Jean Gros.
Richebourg, Domaine Jean Gros. Now-2020 plusFullish colour. This is cleaner, richer, fuller, more complete and more classy than that labelled A.F. Gros. Marvelous harmony, concentration, vigour and class on the palate. Quite splendid fruit. Multi-dimensional. Indisputably great.
Richebourg, Domaine Alain Hudelot-Noëllat. Now-2018Medium-full, mature colour. Interesting slightly odd grilled meat flavours on the nose. Medium-full body. Soft and ripe and rich and succulent. Very velvety. Lovely harmony. Yet is misses a bit of finesse. So it is not totally convincing.
Richebourg, Domaine Leroy. Now-2020 plusFull, vigorous colour. Very lovely concentrated fruit. Cool and balanced. Lots of finesse. Fullish body, excellent grip, lovely fruit. A profound, classy wine, but more Leroy than Richebourg. What it lacks is real originality.
Richebourg, Domaine Thibaut Liger-Belair. Now-2018This wine was made and bottled by Denis et Dominique Mugneret, before the lease came to an end in 2002 and Thibault got the vines back. Medium-full colour, still youthful. Ample, round nose. Quite substantial. Rich and balanced. Fullish body. A meaty wine with a good grip. Good concentration and intensity if not the class of the very best.
La Romanée, Domaine du Château de Vosne-Romanée/Bouchard Père et Fils Now-2020Fullish mature colour. Rich nose. Some oak. Great class here if without the concentration of fruit of the best Richebourgs. Very good grip. Just the slightest bit austere. But a lovely balanced, intense and vigorous wine.
La Tache, Domaine de la Romanée-Conti. 2015-2030Splendid colour. A touch of reduction at first but this quickly blew away. Pure and definitive and very fine indeed on the nose. Marvelous fruit. Indisputably a great wine. A big wine of huge concentration, splendid tannins and very good grip. Very fine long finish. Very youthful still. Will still improve.
Bonnes Mares, Domaine Joseph Drouhin. Now-2016Good colour. Rich, fat, full, succulent nose. Lots of juicy fruit here and a touch of oak. Fullish body, opulent, very ripe. Exotic and sensuous. Very lovely finish.
Bonnes Mares, Domaine Robert Groffier. Now-2015Good, full, vigorous colour. Quite spicy but a little coarse and cooked. A sturdy wine, not exactly elegant and showing some bitterness and vegatal elements at the end. Full and rich, but rather ungainly.
Bonnes Mares, Domaine Roumier. Now-2020 plusFine full colour. Very lovely nose. Marvelous pure fruit. Full body. Not too big, but a bit tough at first, but soon developed into a mellow and multi-dimensional wine with splendid complexity, class and harmony. Very fine long finish. Excellent.
Bonnes Mares, Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé. Now-2020Very full colour. Rich, fresh, very full and at first slightly four square nose. Still very vigorous. Good tannin and very good grip. Lots of fruit and a touch of oak. At first I was less enthusiastic, but it got better and better in the glass as it mellowed. Very fine.
Musigny, Domaine Drouhin. Now-2020Medium-full, mature colour. Very delicious. Complex, classy and fragrant on the nose. A delicate wine compared with some but very lovely intense fruit on the palate. Excellent grip and balance. Very, very long. Quite gorgeous.
Musigny, Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé. 2015-2030A bottle from my own celler in France. Full, still very youthful colour. The nose is quite splendid but still very young. Marvelous depth and concentration. It seems as if it will still improve. Full body. A little tannin to resolve. Great class. Does not have the voluptuous charm of the Drouhin today and I think it may always be a touch rigid, but quite splendid nevertheless.
Musigny, Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé. At best Now-2014A bottle from an American cellar. I am convinced something untoward happened to the shipment. Bottles in the USA have never sung. Full, rich colour. Still vigorous. Still a little dumb – or is ir just tight? - on the nose. Fullish body. Some evidence of unresolved tannin. Vigorous, rich a,d meaty, but rather four square. Did not hold up very well in the glass.
Clos Saint-Denis, Domaine Dujac. Now-2017Medium colour. Fully mature. Soft, fragrant, stylish, well-balanced nose. On the palate this is round and harmonious but this bottle is beginning to show a little age. There is a slight lack of vigour and the acidity is beginning to show at the end. Held up well in the glass however.
Clos Saint-Denis, Domaine Georges Lignier. Now-2014Medium to medium-full colour. Fully mature. Ripe nose. Quite stylish. By no means a blockbuster, but still fresh. Medium to medium-full body. Good acidity. Fully à point. Good plump fruit. Good class. Fine.
Clos de la Roche, Domaine Dujac. Now-2016Full, rich, vigorous colour. Lovely fragrant nose. Lots of quality and lots of energy. On the palate ripe and medium-full bodied. Plenty of vigour. Long, velvety, intense and very elegant. Very fine.
Clos de la Roche, Vieilles Vignes, Domaine Ponsot. Now-2020Full, vigorous colour. Ample, round, ripe, succulent nose. Silky and harmonious. Intense, fresh, vigorous and very lovely. Fullish body. Lots of energy and the end. Very profound. Very fine plus.
Clos de la Roche, Domaine Armand Rousseau. Now-2016Good colour. Fresh, plump nose. Succulent, ripe, medium-full weight. Just a touch of oak. This is ample, round and full of charm. Very good grip. Lots of intererst. Holding up well. Lovely.
Charmes-Chambertin, Domaine Bernard Dugat-Py.Very good colour. A rich, full wine, if a touch rigid. But badly corked.
Charmes-Chambertin, Domaine Frédéreic Esmonin. Now-2020Full, rich, vigorous colour. Still very youthful. High quality. Full and concentrated and vigorous on the palate. Lovely fruit and lots of energy. Long and complex and very classy. Very fine.
Charmes-Chambertin, Maison Roland Remoissenet. Now-2014Fullish colour. Fresh, ample, plump nose. Good fruit and good grip. Medium to medium-full weight. Lacks the energy of the best of the rest. Fresh and fruity, but a bit one-dimensional;
Mazis-Chambertin, Hospices de Beaune, Cuvée Madelaine Collignon.Bottled by Maison Rodet. Now-2020 plus
Fine, full, vigorous colour. Full, energetic, fresh, very black fruit nose. Quite oaky, but the oak integrated. Very rich. Full body. Youthful. Concentrated and with very good grip. A big wine, but no aggressive tannins nor over-maceration. Voluptuous. Impressive. Splendid fruit.
Mazy-Chambertin, Domaine Armand Rousseau. Now-2018Full, mature colour. Ripe, rich, ample, seductive nose. Good fat and concentration here. Restrained, understated, cool and complete on the palate, especially after the Hospices Mazis above. Medium-full body. Very lovely fruit and excellent harmony. Very classy indeed. Long and quite lovely.
Ruchottes-Chambertin, Domaine Dr. Georges Mugneret. Now-2014Fullish, vigorous coloiur. Quite developed but in an exotic rather than in a deleterious extent. Medium-full body. Ripe. Very good grip. Quietly classy. Just a suggestion of astruingency at the end. So drink quite soon. This does not have the intensity for great but is has lovely balance, and is long and complex.
Ruchottes-Chambertin, Clos des Ruchottes, Domaine Armand Rousseau. Now-2015Fullish colour. Like the Dr. Georges Mugneret example this is more gamey than the Mazy. Nor does it have the volume and concentration. It is a little leaner than the Dr. Georges Mugneret but it is fresher, longer, more intense and more elegant at the end. Medium-full body. Lovely.
Griotte-Chambertin, Domaine Ponsot. Now-2018Very full coloiur. Almost black to the rim. Very, very rich, ripe and exotic on the nose. Silky but gloriously fruity. Fullish body. Very intense and concentrated without being a blockbuster. Very lovely individual black fruit flavours. Lots of depth and energy and slendid balance. Excellent.
Chambertin, Clos de Bèze, Domaine Joseph Faiveley. Now-2016Full youthful colour. Again rather blunt, dry and rigid on the nose. Fullish body. Slightly astringent. A lack of suppleness. Good fruit and good grip, but rather tiring to drink.
Chambertin, Clos de Bèze, Domaine Louis Jadot. Now-2020 plusFullish vigorous colour. Profound nose. Rich and fat and very concentrated. Still very youthful. Very lovely fruit; scculent and multi-dimensional. Great class. Full body. Splendid depth of character. This is truly excellent still had years if life ahead of it.
Chambertin, Clos de Bèze, Domaine Armand Rousseau. Now-2016Full mature colour. Full mature nose. Rich and succulent but a slight touch of the farmyard. Fullish, aromatic, very good grip. Slight rigidity nevertheless on the follow through. Lots of energy, if not the purity and elegance of the best bottles of this wine.
Chambertin, Domaine Bouchard Père et Fils. Now-2020 plusFullish colour. Very lovely nose. Fragrant, classy, fullish, intense and balanced. Still very youthful. Very composed. Multi-dimensional. Very fine plus.
Chambertin, Domaine Joseph Drouhin. Now-2018Full colour. Very, very lovely nose. Marvelous poised, ripe fruit. Great finesse and purity. Lots of dimension. Really very profound. Excellent harmony. Long on the palate. Very, very fine.
Chambertin, Domaine Armand Rousseau. See noteVery full colour. This has always been a 20/20 wine. But like the Clos de Bèze above this bottle has not been well stored. It starts off well enough on the nose, but then is weak, loose and even coarse on the palate. What a pity !