Domaine Meo-Camuzet
A Tasting Of Corton, Clos Rognet
The monopoly of the grand cru Corton, Clos Rognet belongs to the Méo-Camuzet domaine. It lies immediately above the village of Ladoix, measures xxx ares, and was acquired by XXXX in xxx. In common with the rest of the estate's top wines, the fruit is destemmed, cold-soaked for four or five days at 15°, and matured using 100 percent new oak.
The following wines were presented by Jean-Nicolas Méo and myself at The Great Wine Seminar in West Palm Beach, Florida, in April 2008.
2004
Medium to medium-full colour. Still youthful. Ripe nose. Gently oaky. Good structure and good tannins. Medium-full body. Balanced, stylish fruit and surprisingly generous. Lots of finesse. Complex. Fine. From 2012.
2002
Full colour. Full, ample, plump, concentrated nose. Lots of depth and quality here. Full body. Gently oaky. Vigorous and full of fruit. Very good grip. Excellent tannins. This is very lovely, classy and profound. Lovely finish. Very fine. From 2015.
2001
Medium to medium-full colour. Still fresh. Nicely cool, rich fruit on the nose. Good depth and very good class. Medium to medium-full body. Lovely fruit. Good grip. This has vigour and concentration. Most attractive. Fine plus. From 2011.
2000
Medium to medium-full, mature colour. Ripe nose. Surprisingly opulent. Soft. Medium body. Attractive and quite forward. Not the greatest depth or tannic structure, but fresh and balanced. Long on the palate. Just about ready. Very good. Now to 2015.
1999
Full colour. Still youthful. Now a little evolution on the nose. Fat and rich, with a touch of spice. Full body. Gently oaky. Ample, ripe, quite rich, opulent. I prefer the 2002 – it has more grip and finesse – but this is long and vigorous and is maturing nicely. Fine. From 2010.
1998
Good colour. Just about mature. Ripe nose, still quite firm. Fullish body. Excellent grip. Sophisticated tannins. Long and vigorous and very fine. Richer than the 1995. From 2013.
1997
Medium-full, mature colour. Round, soft, spicy nose. Medium body. Ripe and fresh. Not a blockbuster. Now ready. Attractive fruit and a rather better follow-through than most 1997s. Very good indeed. Now to 2017.
1996
Medium-full colour. No undue maturity. Lots of depth and finesse here. Still a little closed. Medium-full body. Ripe tannins. Good acidity. Cool and fresh. Long and vigorous. No lack of charm. Just about ready. Fine quality. Now to 2020.
1995
Good mature colour. Mature nose. Very lovely classy fruit. Gently oaky. Lots of depth and vigour. Ripe, rich and concentrated. Just about ready but will still improve. Long. Very fine. Now to 2025.
1993
Fullish colour. No undue maturity. A touch of new wood here. But quite concentrated and profound. Fullish body. Oaky again. But not to excess. And this gives the wine a rounder, somewhat sweeter after-taste. Not rigid. Good energy. More to it than the 1996. Just about ready. Fine plus. Now to 2020 plus.
It is very clear that the tannin/oak management is better today than a decade ago.
1992
Medium to medium-full colour. Fully mature. Soft, mellow, aromatic nose. Some of the gamey flavours of an old wine. Medium body. Fresh, ripe and smooth. Very good indeed. Now to 2012.
1990
Full, mature colour. Not the greatest of elegance on the palate. Somewhat flat and dead. Medium-full body. Well-matured. Decent grip but an absence of vigour.
A second bottle was fresher and offered much interest. This was long and positive and fine quality, and would last until 2020.
And as a bonne bouche:
Clos de Vougeot, 1990
Full, mature colour. Lovely rich, ample nose. Full body. Vigorous, fruity, fat and rich. Lots of depth and high quality. Fine Plus. Now to 2020 plus.