TASTING OF GRIOTTE, RUCHOTTES & CHAPELLE-CHAMBERTIN

MARCH 2007

 

I tasted the following wines in Guildford, Connecticut, USA in March 2007.  My thanks to Bob Feinn of Mount Carmel Wines, Hamden, CT, and the rest  of the Guildford Burgundy gang.

 

Chapelle-Chambertin, 2004

2009-2019

17.0

Maison Camille Giroud

 

 

Good colour.  Ample, oaky nose.  Soft, ripe, succulent and stylish.  Medium-full body.  Good balance.  Quite forward and elegant.  Good depth.  Very good indeed.

 

 

 

 

 

Griotte-Chambertin, 2002

2009-2015

14.0

Domaine Chézeaux/Leclerc

 

 

Good colour.  A little diffuse on the nose.  Slightly bitter.  Not very classy.  Medium-full body.  Rather soupy and sweet/sour.  It lacks style.  Only quite good at best.

 

 

 

 

 

Ruchottes-Chambertin, 2002

2012-2030

18.0

Domaine Georges Mugneret

 

 

Good colour.  Rich nose.  Lots of depth.  Very good grip.  Fullish.  Very good intensity.  Very lovely fruit.  Not a bit adolescent or austere but is going to need quite a lot of time to become ready.  Fine plus.

 

 

 

 

 

Ruchottes-Chambertin, 2001

2008-2015

17.5

Domaine Georges Mugneret

 

 

Good colour.  Some development.  Ripe, stylish, gently oaky nose.  Medium to medium-full body.  Fresh, clean and balanced.  Very good finish.  Fine for the vintage.  Ready soon.

 

 

 

 

 

Griotte-Chambertin, 2001

Now-2015

15.0

Domaine Joseph Drouhin

 

 

Good colour.  Slightly dumb on the nose at present.  Just a little pinched.  More to it than the 2000 though.  Better on the palate.  Medium body.  Ready.  But good at best.  The flavour is a bit ungenerous.

 

 

 

 

 

Charmes-Chambertin, 2001

Now-2015

16.0

Domaine Sérafin

 

 

Good colour.  Good fruit on the nose.  Quite oaky.  Medium to medium-full body.  Round, ripe and pleasant.  Good depth.  Ready.  Very good.

 

 

 

 

 

Chapelle-Chambertin, 2001

2008-2018

18.0

Domaine Louis Jadot

 

 

Good colour.  Ample nose.  Very good fruit.  Lots of depth and effort for the vintage.  Rich, fresh, stylish and harmonious.  Complex and classy.  Fine plus.  Will still improve.

 

 

 

 

 

Griotte-Chambertin, 2000

Now-2012

16.5

Domaine Joseph Drouhin

 

 

Medium colour.  Some development.  Much more so than the 2001.  Soft nose.  Not a lot of substance.  Decent fruit and balance.  Cleaner than the 2001.  Positive finish.  Fully ready.  Very good plus.

 

 

 

 

 

Griotte-Chambertin, 2000

2009-2018

16.0

Domaine C. Dugat

 

 

Very good colour.  Really quite concentrated for a 2000 on the nose.  Lovely classy bramble fruit.  On the palate slightly austere.  Some substance.  Still needs to be kept.  Just at the limit of extraction.  Will round off.  But will it always be a bit ungenerous?  Very good.

 

 

 

 

 

Griotte-Chambertin, 1999

2009-2029

18.0

Domaine Joseph Drouhin

 

 

Full colour.  Ample, rich, concentrated nose.  A touch of chocolate.  Fullish, harmonious, ripe and classy on the palate.  Very good tannins.  This is lovely.  Long cool finish.

 

 

 

 

 

Griotte-Chambertin, 1999

Now-2017

16.0

Domaine René Leclerc

 

 

Fullish colour.  Some development.  Rich, a touch sweet but generous and succulent on the nose.  It doesn't have the class and harmony of Drouhin's.  Less fat and concentration.  But decent ripe fruit and balance.  Just about ready.

 

 

 

 

 

Griotte-Chambertin, 1999

2008-2028

18.5

Domaine Ponsot

 

 

Fullish colour.  Very pure on the nose.  Fresh, ripe and very elegant.  Medium-full.  Refined.  Individual.  Very intense at the end.  Very, very complex.  Delicious.  Just about ready.

 

 

 

 

 

Chapelle-Chambertin, 1999

2010-2020

18.5

Domaine Trapet

 

 

Fine, very full, immature colour.  Still youthful and closed on the nose.  Full body.  Some tannins still.  Needs three or four years still.  Lovely fruit.  This is rich, backward and concentrated.  Very fine.

 

 

 

 

 

Chapelle-Chambertin, 1999

2009-2021

17.0

Domaine Ponsot

 

 

Full colour.  Less developed on the nose than his Griotte.  Fuller, slightly less fragrant at present.  Very promising.  Not as refined as the Griotte, nor as intense or concentrated.  Slightly four-square.  Still needs a few years.  Very good indeed but not great.

 

 

 

 

 

Griotte-Chambertin, 1998

2009-2025

17.5

Domaine Joseph Drouhin

 

 

Good colour.  Generous, ripe, succulent nose.  Very lovely fruit.  Fullish, fresh, still a touch austere on the palate.  But very good grip.  Will still improve.  Lovely finish.  Fine.

 

 

 

 

 

Griotte-Chambertin, 1998

Drink Soon

13.0

Domaine Leclerc

 

 

Good colour.  Some development.  Quite an evolved and rustic nose.  Bonfires.  Twiggy.  Medium body.  Quite old already.  Lacks grip, concentration and flair.  Poor.

 

 

 

 

 

Griotte-Chambertin, 1998

2009-2029

(18.0?)

Domaine Roty

 

 

Very good colour.  Corked on the nose.  Nevertheless full, rich and concentrated.  Very good grip.  Very good tannins.  Long.  Youthful.  Fine plus at the very least.

 

 

 

 

 

Griotte-Chambertin, 1998

Now-2026

18.5

Domaine Ponsot

 

 

Good youthful colour.  Not a blockbuster but intense and pure and very fresh and classy on the nose.  Medium body.  Just about ready.  Very good grip.  Complex.  Very lovely.  Very fine long finish.

 

 

 

 

 

Chapelle-Chambertin, 1998

Now-2027

18.0

Domaine Ponsot

 

 

Fullish, youthful colour.  Bigger and slightly more four-square on the nose than his Griotte, but fine pure fruit nonetheless.  Closer in quality than the 1999 pair.  Fullish body.  Very finely balanced.  Better than the 1999.  Long.  Complex.  Fine plus.  Just about ready.

 

 

 

 

 

Chapelle-Chambertin, 1998

2009-2030

18.5

Domaine Louis Jadot

 

 

Very good colour.  Ample, fruity, rich, backward nose.  Full.  Rich.  Just a touch of oak.  Lovely pure fruit.  Very good tannins.  Will still improve.  Lovely balance.  Very long.

 

 

 

 

 

Chapelle-Chambertin, 1998

Now-2022

16.5

Domaine Trapet

 

 

Huge colour.  Dumb nose.  Full and rich underneath but how much nuance?  Medium-full, but slight astringency from the tannins.  Not the fat of Jadot's.  Good fruit nevertheless and finishes better than it starts.  Very good plus.

 

 

 

 

 

Griotte-Chambertin, 1997

Now-2015

16.0

Domaine Esmonin

 

 

Fullish but quite evolved colour.  Slightly soupy on the nose.  Medium-full body.  Sturdier and more sophisticated than Damoy's.  Good grip.  Still a little tannin.  Very good but not fine.

 

 

 

 

 

Griotte-Chambertin, 1997

Drink Soon

14.0

Domaine Ponsot

 

 

Fullish colour.  Ripe fruity nose.  Sufficiently fresh, open and accessible.  Medium body.  A little weedy on the attack; more so at the end.  Fully ready.  Only quite good.

 

 

 

 

 

Griotte-Chambertin, 1997

Drink Soon

15.0

Domaine Chézeaux/Ponsot (?)

 

 

Fullish colour.  Very good nose, similar to Ponsot's own cuvée.  Good freshness for a 1997.  Definitely the Ponsot vinification, though the label does 

 

 

not specify this. Less ready at the end.

 

 

 

 

 

Griotte-Chambertin, 1997

Now-2020

18.5

Domaine Claude Dugat

 

 

Very full colour.  Rich, concentrated, quite sturdy nose.  Full body.  Lovely fresh fruit.  Good depth, grip and structure.  Long and complex.  Elegant.  Very fine for a 1997.

 

 

 

 

 

Chapelle-Chambertin, 1997

Now-2020

18.5

Domaine Claude Dugat

 

 

Very full colour.  Lovely nose.  Rich and full.  Lots of depth.  Perhaps not quite the nuance on the palate of his Griotte but a bigger, richer, more concentrated wine with fine grip and a very long finish.  Very fine.

 

 

 

 

 

Chapelle-Chambertin, 1997

Now-2012

15.0

Domaine Damoy

 

 

Medium-full colour.  Some development.  Ample, quite developed nose.  Medium body.  A little soupy.  Ripe and fruity.  Good but it lacks distinction.  Ready.

 

 

 

 

 

Griotte-Chambertin, 1996

2010-2030

17.5

Domaine Claude Dugat

 

 

Fine, youthful colour.  Quite a lot of extraction here.  But good class.  It just needs time.  Only a little oaky.  Harmonious.  Full body.  Still some tannin.  Good grip.  Still a way to go.  But rich, complex and concentrated.  Fine.

 

 

 

 

 

Griotte-Chambertin, 1996

Now-2020

17.0

Domaine Chezeaux

 

 

Good colour.  Medium-full.  A little development.  Ponsot, by the look of it, on the nose.  But I prefer the wine under his name.  Medium to medium-full body.  Fresh and clean.  Very good indeed but it lacks the flair and dimension for great.  Just about ready.

 

 

 

 

 

Griotte-Chambertin, 1996

2009-2029

17.0

Domaine Esmonin

 

 

Very good colour.  Still youthful.  Some extraction but good classy fruit here on the nose.  Medium-full body.  Attractive ripe, balanced, fresh, succulent fruit.  This is very more-ish.  A slight lack of complexity at the end.  Still needs time.

 

 

 

 

 

Griotte-Chambertin, 1996

Now-2015

15.5

Domaine Drouhin

 

 

Fullish, vigorous colour.  Slightly lumpy on the nose.  The acidity shows.  Slight lack of suppleness.  Medium to medium-full body.  Slightly one-dimensional.  The fruit is a bit unsophisticated.  Only good plus.  Ready.

 

 

 

 

 

Griotte-Chambertin, 1996

Now-2018

16.5

Domaine Ponsot

 

 

Medium-full colour.  Some development.  Ripe, accessible, fresh, balanced, stylish nose.  Lovely fruit.  Like the Chezeaux, though, on the palate a bit lacking richness and volume.  Slightly less to it than Chezeaux on the palate.  Ready.

 

 

 

 

 

Chapelle-Chambertin, 1996

Now-2022

17.5

Domaine Ponsot

 

 

Medium-full colour.  Some development.  A more succulent, fuller, more positive nose than the Griotte.  Medium-full.  Not the greatest concentration or volume but good intensity, classy fruit and fine balance.  Just about ready.  Fine.

 

 

 

 

 

Chapelle-Chambertin, 1996

Now-2017

17.0

Domaine Drouhin-Laroze

 

 

Good fullish, just about mature colour.  Fruity but slightly soupy nose.  Some oak.  Medium to medium-full body.  Fresh, ripe, quite seductive at first.  Juicy fruity.  Underneath no real class or complexity.  But balanced and quite long on the palate.

 

 

 

 

 

Chapelle-Chambertin, 1996

2009-2025

17.5

Domaine Trapet

 

 

Good colour.  Slightly barnyardy on the nose.  Medium-full.  Quite fat and concentrated.  Good grip.  If it only had a bit more class it would be fine.  Very good at best.  Another bottle was similar but a little cleaner.  A little tannin.  Will still soften.  The first bottle also improved in the glass.

 

 

 

 

 

Griotte-Chambertin, 1995

2010-2025

17.0

Domaine Esmonin

 

 

Medium-full colour.  Just a little mature.  Not perhaps the greatest flair, but good ample fruit.  Still needs time.  Fullish body.  Good grip.  Just a little tannin.  Highly satisfactory if not great.  Needs 2/3 years still.

 

 

 

 

 

Griotte-Chambertin, 1995

Now-2030

18.5

Domaine Joseph Drouhin

 

 

Fresh, medium-full colour.  Just about mature.  Lovely fruit on the nose.  A lot of depth, class and concentration.  Medium-full body.  Round, ripe, rich, succulent, classy and intense.  Very fine.  Very lovely finish.  Just about ready.  Much better than the 1996.

 

 

 

 

 

Griotte-Chambertin, 1995

Now-2025

18.0

Domaine Chezeaux/Ponsot

 

 

Fresh, medium-full colour.  Now mature.  Fresh nose.  Very good fruit.  Classy and balanced.  Medium-full bodied, intense and very classy.  Much better than the 1996.  Lovely fruit.  Complex and lots of finesse.  Very long.  Fine plus.

 

 

 

 

 

Griotte-Chambertin, 1995

Now-2020

17.5

Domaine Ponsot

 

 

Fresh, medium-full colour.  Just a little maturity.  Medium-full body.  Good concentration.  Good depth.  Still youthful.  I find the Chezeaux/Ponsot more alive and more intense.  But this is fine.

 

 

 

 

 

Chapelle-Chambertin, 1995

2009-2025

18.0

Domaine Damoy

 

 

Medium-full colour.  Still quite youthful.  Fullish.  Some tannin.  Quite spicy.  Still needs time.  Fullish, ample, ripe, very smooth and velvety on the palate.  Very good grip.  Lovely long finish.  Fine plus.  Just about ready.

 

 

 

 

 

Chapelle-Chambertin, 1995

2010-2028

18.0

Domaine Trapet

 

 

Fullish colour.  Still youthful.  Rich, full, ample nose.  Good volume.  Very classy fruit.  Plenty of depth.  Still youthful.  Still a little unresolved tannin.  Full, rich and concentrated.  Potentially fine plus.  Better than the 1996.

 

 

 

 

 

Griotte-Chambertin, 1994

Drink Soon

14.0

Domaine Chézeaux

 

 

Light to medium, mature colour.  Not much nose.  Decent soft, balanced, fruity wine on the palate.  But not much class.  Drink soon.

 

 

 

 

 

Griotte-Chambertin, 1994

Now-2012

15.0

Domaine G. Esmonin

 

 

Light to medium colour.  Fully mature.  Some fruit on the nose.  For a 1994 this is really very good.  Quite ample.  Decent fruit.  No undue age.  Quite fresh.  No hurry to drink.

 

 

 

 

 

Griotte-Chambertin, 1993

Now-2030

19.0

Domaine Joseph Drouhin

 

 

Fullish mature colour.  Lovely nose.  Full, succulent, intense and concentrated.  Perhaps even better than the 1995.  Great class.  Lots of depth.  Only just ready.  Excellent.  Will last for ages.

 

 

 

 

 

Griotte-Chambertin, 1993

Now-2028

18.5

Domaine Esmonin

 

 

Very full colour.  Still youthful.  This is a lovely, rich fine wine.  Very splendid fruit.  Still very youthful.  Ripe and rich.  Long and complex.  Very fine.

 

 

 

 

 

Griotte-Chambertin, 1993

Now-2025

18.0

Domaine Chezeaux/Ponsot

 

 

Full colour.  Still youthful.  Fine, fragrant, complex nose.  Medium-full on the palate.  Not quite the concentration of Drouhin's.  But balanced and classy.

 

 

 

 

 

Griotte-Chambertin, 1993

Now-2015

16.5

Domaine Ponsot

 

 

Full colour.  Still youthful.  Very much the same as the Chezeaux/Ponsot wine.  But, as with the 1995 (and I am sure it is the storage) the Chézeaux is better.

 

 

 

 

 

Chapelle-Chambertin, 1993

2009-2020+

18.0

Domaine Trapet

 

 

Very full, backward colour.  Ample nose.  At first slightly smelly (this disappears).  Full.  Backward.  Rich and concentrated.  But a bit raw.  Perhaps slightly clumsy and four-square.  Evolved very positively in the glass.

 

 

 

 

 

Griotte-Chambertin, 1991

Now-2015

18.5

Domaine Joseph Drouhin

 

 

Medium-full colour.  Still youthful.  Ripe, fragrant, succulent nose.  Attractive and elegant.  Nice and fresh.  Fullish body.  Slightly austere.  Best with food.  Mature but fresh.  Classy.  Long.  Very fine for the vintage.

 

 

 

 

 

Griotte-Chambertin, 1991

Now-2012

17.0

Domaine Ponsot

 

 

Medium colour.  Fully mature.  Not a lot of nose but quite fresh and elegant and clean if not exactly intense.  Medium body.  Fragrant.  Delicate.  Lacks a little vigour and thrust.  But balanced and classy.  Very good indeed.

 

 

 

 

 

Chapelle-Chambertin, 1991

Now-2015

17.0

Domaine Ponsot

 

 

Medium-full colour.  Fully mature.  As usual more substantial than the Griotte.  The nose shows depth and volume if not the fragrance of the best Griottes.  Medium-full body.  Ripe, even sweet.  No great class but good depth.  Very good indeed.

 

 

 

 

 

Chapelle-Chambertin, 1991

Now-2020

18.5

Domaine Trapet

 

 

Medium-full colour.  Fully mature.  Jean-Louis' first vintage.  Ripe nose.  Good substance and depth.  Still plenty of vigour.  Fullish body.  Concentrated.  Ripe.  Rich.  Profound.  Lovely finish.  Very fine.

 

 

 

 

 

Griotte-Chambertin, 1990

Now-2020

18.5

Domaine Ponsot

 

 

Fullish, fresh colour.  Ripe, ample, vigorous nose.  Full for Ponsot.  Structured too.  Concentrated.  Vigorous, intense and classy.  More Ponsot than 1990.  Lovely finish.  Bags of life still.

 

 

 

 

 

Griotte-Chambertin, 1990

Now-2012

16.0

Domaine Esmonin

 

 

Medium-full, mature colour.  Fully mature nose.  Slightly spicy.  Vigorous and ample but a slight lack of real class.  Fullish body.  Slightly lumpy tannins.  Ripe and balanced.  Quite rich.  But very good at best.  A slight astringency lurks.

 

 

 

 

 

Chapelle-Chambertin, 1990

Now-2020+

19.5

Domaine Louis Jadot

 

 

Fullish colour.  Just about mature.  Full, rich, fat and generous.  Some tannin still to resolve.  Profound and promising on the nose.  Full body.  Velvety rich.  Splendidly rich and profound.  Vigorous.  Long.  Concentrated.  Very fine indeed.

 

 

 

 

 

Chapelle-Chambertin, 1990

Now-2015

15.0

Domaine Trapet

 

 

Very full colour.  A little mature.  Full but slightly solid/muddy nose.  Certainly ripe though.  Similar on the palate.  Slightly muscular.  Good grip.  The 1991 is proportionately better.  A bit lumpy.

 

 

 

 

 

Griotte-Chambertin, 1989

Now-2018

19.0

Domaine Joseph Drouhin

 

 

Good medium-full, mature colour.  Very lovely fragrant nose.  Classy, lovely fruit.  Complex.  Fully ready but still with plenty of vigour.  Medium to medium-full body.  So ripe it is almost sweet.  Yet deliciously fresh.  Not jammy.  Very long.  Very classy.  Very fine plus.

 

 

 

 

 

Griotte-Chambertin, 1988

Now-2018

18.0

Maison Louis Jadot

 

 

Fullish, barely mature colour.  Fragrant nose.  Quite delicate compared to their Chapelle.  Not as rich or as complete.  Fine fruit.  Balanced.  Fresh.  Vigorous and stylish.  Fine plus.

 

 

 

 

 

Griotte-Chambertin, 1988

Now-2013

16.0

Domaine Esmonin

 

 

Fullish colour.  Barely mature.  Good if not very complex fruit on the nose.  And on the palate together with some not very sophisticated tannins.  Medium-full body.  Good grip.  But a little astringent at the end.  Very good at best.

 

 

 

 

 

Griotte-Chambertin, 1988

Now-2015

18.0

Domaine Ponsot

 

 

Medium-full, now mature colour.  Fragrant nose.  Attractive and cool.  As so often a seductive, individual fruity attack, but it slightly lacks intensity at the end.  Not a bit austere though.  Medium to medium-full body.  Not short.  Indeed long and complex.  Very good indeed.  I prefer the 1990.  It is fresher.

 

 

 

 

 

Chapelle-Chambertin, 1988

Now-2020

19.0

Maison Louis Jadot

 

 

Fine full, barely mature colour.  Splendidly cool, concentrated, classy nose.  Very good grip.  Fullish body.  Very relaxed and complex.  Just about ready.  Very fine plus.  Will last for ages.

 

 

 

 

 

Griotte-Chambertin, 1985

Now-2015

19.0

Domaine Joseph Drouhin

 

 

Fullish, vigorous colour.  Very lovely fragrant nose.  Fresh, complex and very elegant.  Excellently balanced.  Very good acidity.  Seductive.  Lovely fruit.  Fullish body.  Still plenty of life.  Long and subtle and multi-dimensional.  Lovely finish.  Very fine plus.

 

 

 

 

 

Griotte-Chambertin, 1985

Now-2012

18.5

Domaine Ponsot

 

 

Fullish vigorous colour.  Delicate nose.  Yet cool, complex and stylish.  Lovely sweet fruit.  Fully à point.  Medium-full body.  Classy and intense.  Very fine.

 

 

 

 

 

Griotte-Chambertin, 1983

Now-2012

17.5

Domaine Joseph Drouhin

 

 

Fullish mature colour.  Somewhat more muscular on the nose than the 1985.  Fullish body.  Spicy.  Just a touch astringent.  Fine fruit.  Good grip.  Long.  Fine.

 

 

 

 

 

Chapelle-Chambertin, 1982

Drink Soon

17.0

Domaine Clair Dau

 

 

Medium to medium-full, fully mature colour.  Fine class and vigour on the nose and palate.  Medium body.  No undue age.  Long and fragrant if not the greatest class.  Good concentration.  Needs drinking soon but very good indeed for the vintage.

 

 

 

 

 

Chapelle-Chambertin, 1978

Drink Soon

15.0

Domaine Damoy

 

 

Fully mature colour.  A little rustic on the nose.  Medium weight.  Quite fresh.  Good fruit if no real class.  No hurry to drink but good at best.

 

 

 

 

 

Griotte-Chambertin, 1976

Now-2011

17.5

Domaine Joseph Drouhin

 

 

Fullish mature colour.  Some structure here on the nose.  Decent fruit behind it.  Slight inflexible.  Quite fresh and plump on the palate.  Good grip.  Fullish body.  Fine for a 1976.  Better than the 1983.  Good positive finish.  No hurry to drink.

 

 

 

 

 

Charmes-Chambertin, 1970

Now-2010

17.0

Domaine Bolter

 

 

Decently fresh colour for the age.  The nose too.  Plump.  Stylish.  Ripe.  Medium to medium-full body.  Sexy and attractive.  Balanced.  Positive at the end.  Very good indeed.  Still has plenty of life.

 

 

 

 

 

Chapelle-Chambertin, 1967

Now-2012

16.0

Domaine Damoy

 

 

Decently fresh colour.  Slightly soupy sweet on nose and palate.  Good grip and quite concentrated.  But it lacks flair.  Medium to medium-full body.  Still very fresh.  Very good.

 

 

 

 

 

Chapelle-Chambertin, 1966

Now-2012

18.5

Domaine Leroy

 

 

Medium-full colour.  Very fresh for a 40 year old wine.  Cool, refined and very youthful.  Not a bit artificial, as is the Damoy 1967.  Medium-full body.  Complex.  Very classy.  Intense and long at the end.  Very fine for 1966.

 

 

 

 

 

Latricières-Chambertin, 1955

Now-2012

16.0

Domaine Jean-Henri Rémy

 

 

Very good colour.  Full, indeed firm, vigorous nose.  Some stems.  Fresh and ample.  Old vine concentration.  But though balanced and vigorous, not very classy.  Very good though.  No hurry to drink.