2005 RED BURGUNDY
Rating for the Vintage
Red: 19.0. White: 16.5
The Size of the Crop
Red White
Grands Crus 13214 3672
Village and 173574 58817
Premiers Crus
Total 188888 62509
A magnificent red wine vintage. This was a dry year, though never particularly hot, save for a heat-wave in May. A hail-storm on 17 July devastated the vines between the villages of Santenay and Chassagne-Montrachet. After a mixed August, and much-needed rain on 6 September, the skies cleared and it became increasingly sunny and warm. The Côte d'Or harvest began in the middle of the month and was all but complete by the week-end of 1st. October.
Now in bottle, the red wines, though they have begun to shut down a bit, are well deserving of all the bally-hoo they engendered at the outset. The vintage is consistently good (except naturally in Santenay and Chassagne-Montrachet) from Marsannay to Maranges, as well as proportionately so from grand cru to the humblest generic. Few past vintages come close. Perhaps the nearest is 1999, but this was a
very much more generous harvest. The relative shortness of the 2005 crop can be seen in the concentration of the wines. They also have depth, finesse, harmony and the potential to last. What more do you want? Lay them down and throw away the key.
The following tasting notes come from three comprehensive tastings. Firstly, in January 2008, I invited the Savigny growers to join me in a tasting of their premiers crus, as we tend to confine our annual Group Tasting to Volnay, Pommard and Beaune, plus Corton, in the Côte de Beaune. They responded magnificently, as you will see below. Secondly there was the annual Masters of Wine/Domaine Familiaux tasting at Vintners Hall in London at the beginning of March. The Group Tasting was held in Beaune at the end of August. Thank you to Jasper Morris, MW and Roy Richards who organized it. In addition, while in the USA in April, I participated in a number of sampling sessions of 2005s. I have included all these notes. I saw quite a few wines on more than one occasion, as you can imagine. Here I have provided a composite tasting note.
My notes on the Domaine de la Romanée-Conti wines will follow shortly.
All wines, except where otherwise indicated, are premier or grand cru.
SAVIGNY-LES-BEAUNE
Clous, Domaine d'Ardhuy.
Good colour. Rich, full, aromatic nose. Full body. Ripe, slightly spicy. Good tannins. Plenty of depth and potential. Very good. From 2012. 15.5
Dominodes, Domaine Bruno Clair.
Medium-full colour. Mature tannins. Good concentration. Medium to medium-full body with rich balanced fruit and a touch of oak. Backward. Very good. From 2013. 16.0
Dominodes, Domaine Chanson.
Medium colour. Fragrant nose. Ripe and succulent. Medium body. Not a lot of backbone but harmonious and stylish. Good plus. From 2011. 15.5
Dominodes, Domaine Louis Jadot.
Medium colour. Rather more closed in on the nose than most. This is quite a tannic wine, but rich and concentrated too. Very good grip. Impressive depth at the end. Very good. From 2013. 16.0
Dominodes, Domaine Pavelot.
Medium-full colour. Lovely nose. Really quite profound. On the palate still recovering from the bottling (it was very much better the next day). Medium to medium-full body. Rich and concentrated. Very good. From 2013. 16.0
Fourneaux, Domaine Chandon de Briailles.
Medium colour. Fragrant nose. Sophisticated, cool fruit. Medium body. Ripe. Not a lot of tannin. But good depth, intensity and style. Good plus. From 2011. 15.5
Fourneaux, Domaine Simon Bize.
Medium colour. Soft, fragrant, ripe, stylish nose. Medium body. Fresh, complex, harmonious, juicy and delicious. Quite forward. From 2011. 16.0
Fourneaux, Domaine Nicolas Rossignol.
Medium colour. Ripe nose. Succulent, almost sweet. Medium to medium-full body. Fresh. Balanced. Good. From 2011. 15.0
Gravins, Domaine Michel Ecard.
Medium colour. Very elegant composed nose. Really stylish and complex. Medium body. As much raw as tannic. Quite forward. Attractive fruity finish. Good plus. From 2012. 15.5
Gravins, Domaine Giboulot.
Medium colour. Lightish, soft, fruity nose. Similar on the palate. Not a lot of backbone here but plenty of jucy, blanced fruit. Forward. Good. 2011. 15.0
Gravins, Domaine Pavelot.
Good colour. Like their Dominodes this is a bit adolescent. It was better the next day. Medium-full body. Good balance. Ripe fruit. There is depth here. Very good. From 2013. 16.0
Clos des Guettes, Domaine André Gagey/Maison Louis Jadot.
Good colour. Fine rich nose. Quite a substantial wine. Medium-full body. Good tannins. Ripe, rich and balanced. Very stylish too. Lovely finish. Very good plus. From 2013. 16.5
Guettes, Domaine Pavelot.
Medium-full colour. Rich, fat, concentrated nose. Medium-full body. Lovely complex fruit. Good depth. Very good plus. From 2013. 16.5
Guettes, Domaine Simon Bize.
From magnum. Good colour. Rich, full, backward and concentrated. Some tannin. Lots of depth and class. Very good grip. Very good indeed. From 2013. 17.0
Hauts Jarrons, Domaine Nicolas Potel.
Good colour. Ripe, rich nose. Very stylish. Medium to medium-full body. Attractive, balanced, fresh and plump. Nice and pure. Easy to enjoy. Very good. From 2012. 16.0
Lavières, Domaine Bouchard Père et Fils.
Medium-full colour. A bit closed-in on the nose. But lovely rich fruit on the palate. Good weight. Good grip. Good style. Long. Very good. From 2013. 16.0
Lavières, Domaine Chandon de Briailles.
Medium colour. Soft, fragrant, spicy nose. Medium body. Ripe tannins. Very good definition. Composed. Harmonious. Very long on the palate. Very good. From 2011. 16.0
Lavières, Domaine Jean-Jacques Girard.
Medium colour. Good weight on the nose. Medium full body. Good tannins. Very ripe, fresh, but
slightly jammy fruit. Yet attractive and balanced. Good. From 2012. 15.0
Lavières, Domaine Nicolas Rossignol.
Good colour. Rich, quite concentrated, succulent nose. Medium-full body. Ripe tannins. Good, slightly spicy fruit and fresh and very positive at the end Very good. From 2012. 16.0
Marconnets, Domaine Simon Bize.
Meduim colour. Rich, succulent nose. Plenty of complexity and style. Medium to medium-full body. Ripe tannins. But not that structured. Vigorous, long and full of interest nevertheless. Good plus. From 2012. 15.5
Narbantons, Domaine Giboulot.
Medium colour Soft, slightly jammy nose. Ripe and juicy but lacks a bit of style as well as backbone and depth. Only fair. From 2010. 13.0
Narbantons, Domaine Jean-Jacques Girard.
Medium colour. Fresh, ripe nose, with good style and depth. Medium to medium-full body. Quite a robust touch to the tannins. But balanced, long and positive. Good plus. From 2013. 15.5
Narbantons, Domaine Louis Jadot.
Good colour. Rich, meaty nose. Quite substantial, but ripe tannins. Very harmonious. Good finesse. Very long. Most impressive. Very good indeed. From 2014.
Narbantons, Domaine Leroy.
Good colour. Rich, concentrated nose. Lots of class and depth. Medium-full body. Very good grip. Very lovely pure fruit. Fine tannins. This is most impressive. Very good indeed. From 2014. 16.5
Narbantons, Domaine Pavelot.
Very good colour. Quite a structured wine on the nose. But all the elegance is in place. Fullish. Very good grip. Ripe tannins. Lovely finish. Slightly adolescent at present but potentially very good plus. From 2014. 16.5
Peuillets, Domaine Michel Ecard.
Medium to medium-full colour. Rich, plummy nose. Fresh, succulent and attractive. Medium body. Not a huge amount of grip, but fresh enough. As much raw as tannic. Positive at the end. Good plus. From 2012. 15.5
Peuillets, Domaine Giboulot.
Medium colour. Soft nose. Ripe and juicy but no great backbone here. Better than his Narbantons but still a little slight. Yet not unstylish. Quite good. From 2011. 14.0
Peuillets, Domaine Jean-Jacques Girard.
Medium to medium-full colour. Good nose: fresh, ripe, positive and meaty. Medium to medium-full body. Lovely cool fruit. Good tannins. Complex and stylish. Fine finish. Very good. From 2013. 16.0
Peuillets, Domaine Nicolas Potel.
Good colour. Velvety rich on the nose. Good substance. Ripe and stylish. Cool fruit. Lovely finish. Very good. From 2014. 16.0
Serpentières, Domaine Simon Bize.
Medium colour. Fragrant nose. Balanced. Cool. Complex. Medium body. Already open. Not a lot of tannin. But balanced and intense, elegant and pure. Very good plus. From 2012. 16.5
Serpentières, Domaine Michel Ecard.
Medium to medium-full colour. Ripe nose. Quite concentrated, and with a touch of spice. Medium to medium-full body. Balanced, vigorous and most attractive. Very good. From 2012. 16.0
Serpentières, Domaine Giboulot.
Medium colour. Good attack.The nose is nice and fresh and plump. Medium body. Good acidity. But lacks a little vigour and structure. Quite good plus. From 2011. 14.5
Serpentières, Domaine Jean-Jacques Girard.
Medium colour. Good meaty wine on the nose, plummy and vigorous. Medium to ledium-full body. Ripe, balanced, long and stylish. Very good. From 2013. 16.0
Serpentières, Domaine Patrick Javillier.
Not a lot of colour. Forward, pretty fresh, fruity and not unstylish. Not a bit short. Lacks a bit of backbone but long and elegant at the end. Good plus. From 2010. 15.5
Vergelesses, Domaine Simon Bize.
Medium colour. Sort, ripe, quite forward nose. Medium body. No great structure but a lovely elegant expression of fruit. Complex too. Long. Very good. From 2011. 16.0
Vergelesses, Domaine Nicolas Potel.
Good colour. Plump, succulent nose. Very good fruit. Nice and cool. Medium to medium-full body. Ripe, balanced, classy, positive and vigorous. Long on the palate. Lovely. From 2013. 17.0
Vergelesses, Domaine des Terregelesses.
Medium colour. Very ripe and plump on the nose, but no a bit soupy. On the palate it lacks a little structure, but it is balanced, classy and vigorous. Long too. Very good. From 2012. 16.0
PERNAND-VERGELESSES
Ile de Vergelesses, Domaine Chandon de Briailles.
Medium colour. Elegant, slightly spicy nose. Good grip but a little lean. Medium weight. Lovely ripe fruit. Long and intense. Very good plus. From 2013. 16.5
ALOXE-CORTON
Clos du Chapitre, Domaine Follin Arbelet.
Medium-full colour. Slightly stewed on the nose. Better on the palate. Medium to medium-full body. Balanced and reasonably fresh, if not very stylish. Quite good. From 2014. 14.0
Clos des Maréchaudes, Domaine de Pavillon.
Good colour. Classy nose; ripe and generous. Just a touch of oak. Medium body. Fresh. Good fruit. Reasonable depth. No hard edges. Perhaps it should have had a bit more stuffing. But good plus. From 2012. 15.5
Vercots, Domaine Follin Arbelet.
Medium-full colour. Rich, chocolate/mocha nose. At first attractive, but astringent on the palate. Decent balance and freshness, but rather common. Quite good at best. From 2013. 14.0
Vercots, Domaine Tollot Beaut.
Medium colour. Anonymous but pleasantly fresh nose. Medium body. Slighly attenuated. Nothing very exciting here. Thin, mean finish. From 2011. 13.0
BEAUNE
Beaune du Château, Domaine Bouchard Père et Fils.
Medium-full colour. Nicely ripe, roasted nose. A touch of oak. Medium-full body. Good tannins, grip and depth. Ripe and civilised. Very good. From 2013. 16.0 (Note: this was the first wine of the Group Tasting. I said to myself: 'Yum Yum. If this wine is any indication, I'm going to enjoy this.' I did.)
Aigrots, Domaine Michel Lafarge.
Medium-full colour. Lightish, round nose without much bite. Light to medium body. Not much depth here and a suggestion of astringency. Only fair. And a disappointment for this domaine. From 2013. 13.0
Avaux, Domaine Camille Giroud.
Medium colour. After an initial touch of reduction of the nose (by no means a defect) the wine expanded out of the glass to become ripe, attractive and nicely succulent. Medium body. Fresh and balanced, finishing positively. Good. From 2015. 15.0
Boucherottes, Domaine Louis Jadot.
Medium-full colour. Ripe, succulent balanced nose. Plenty of depth and style. Medium-full body. Good tannins. Rich and vigorous. Lovely fruit. Long. Very good. From 2012. 16.0
Bressandes, Domaine Chanson.
Full colour. Backward, closed-in nose. Fullish body. Good tannins. Lots of depth. Slight touch of oak. Really profound and with lots of class and dimension. Fine. From 2015. 17.5
Bressandes, Domaine des Croix.
Full colour. Backward nose. Profound, full and oaky on the palate. Lovely classy fruit. Lots of vigour. Balanced, long and very good indeed. From 2015. 17.0
Clos des Couchereaux, Domaine Louis Jadot.
Good colour. Lovely nose: complex and profound for a Beaune. Medium full body. Good oaky base. Very classy, well-balanced fruit. Lovely. From 2014. 17.5
Clos de l'Ecu, Domaine Faiveley.
Good colour. Good weight and depth on the nose here. This is very promising. Medium full body. Lovely fruit. Just a touch rigid at present, but this will go. Very good. From 2014. 16.0
Clos des Fèves, Domaine Chanson.
Medium to medium-full colour. Soft nose. A little anonymous. Medium body. Forward. Balanced, fresh and quite pretty, but a bit one-dimensional. Quite good. From 2011. 14.0
Clos des Marconnets, Domaine Chanson.
Medium to medium-full colour. Nicely rich and firm on the nose. Medium-full body. Good tannins. Good fruit. Fresh and balanced. Good plus. From 2013. 15.5
Clos des Mouches, Domaine Drouhin.
Medium to medium-full colour. Quite firm, even a bit austere on the nose. There is a slight lack of generosity here. Medium-full body. A bit adolescent. The tannins somewhat unsophisticated. Good grip though. May turn out better than it shows today. Quite good plus. From 2013. 14.5 (Note: I liked it better in April in the USA; it was not so severe. 16.0 )
Clos de la Mousse, Domaine Bouchard Père et Fils.
Medium to medium-full colour. Lovely, soft, succulent, classy nose. A wine of great charm if no great depth and backbone. Medium body. Not a lot of tannin. Fresh and fragrant. Good follow through and a positive finish. Quite forward. Very good. From 2011. 16.0
Clos des Ursules, Domaine Louis Jadot.
Good colour. Rich, succulent, classy nose. Good depth. Very good grip. Ripe tannins. Medium-full body. Still a little austere but fine quality. Long and complex. From 2015. 17.5
Coucherias, Domaine Labet-Dechelette.
Medium colour. Clean but weedy on the nose. Balanced but rather slight on the palate. Better than usual though. Not bad plus at best. From 2010. 13.5
Grèves, Vigne de l'Enfant Jesus, Domaine Bouchard Père et Fils.
Good colour. Lots of depth and quality on the nose. Fullish body. Rich, fat, spicy, and vigorous. Good ripe tannins. Very fresh and complete. Very good indeed. From 2012. 17.0
Grèves, Domaine des Croix.
Medium-full colour. Unforthcoming nose. Fullish, ample, quite oaky and well-balanced on the palate. Plenty of style, depth and grip. One of the best of these Beaunes. Long on the palate and very good indeed. From 2014. 17.0
Grèves, Domaine de Montille.
Medium colour. Ripe stylish nose. Good fruit. Medium to medium-full weight. But a little suave and slight on the palate. Quite forward. No better than decent. From 2011. 13.5
Grèves, Domaine Tollot-Beaut et Fils.
Good colour. At first a slight touch of reduction on the nose. This blew off to reveal a medium to medium-full bodied, plump wine with decent balance but no real class. Quite good. From 2012.
(Note: I saw this twice; and gave it a better note the second time (16.0) but then the sample was not reduced.)
Marconnets, Bouchard Père et Fils.
Medium to medium-full colour. Ripe, clean, fragrant nose. Very good style for a Marconnets. Not a blockbuster. Medium body. Elegant. Quite forward. But good intensity and depth, and a positive finish. Very good plus. From 2011. 16.5
Perrières, Domaine de Montille.
Medium to medium-full colour. Slightly attenuated on the nose, and a bit thin and astringent on the palate. But decent fresh fruit underneath. Not bad. Forward though. From 2010. 13.0
Pertuisots, Domaine des Croix.
Medium-full colour. Fullish, ample, succulent nose with a touch of oak. Quite full for a Beaune. Rich, even concentrated. Very good grip and very good tannins. Lovely follow through. Very good indeed. From 2014. 17.0
Pertuisots, Domaine Devevey.
Medium to medium-full colour. Medium weight, balanced, attractive nose. A good basic. Medium-full body. Ripe, harmonious, fresh and generous. Easy to enjoy. Good plus. From 2012. 15.5
Sizies, Domaine de Montille.
Medium to medium-full colour. Slightly lean on the nose. Light to medium body. Decent fruit, but not much style and depth. One dimensional. Only fair. From 2011. 13.0
Teurons, Château de Chorey-lès-Beaune.
Medium colour. Attractive fragrant nose. Good stylish fruit here. Medium body. Somewhat gamey. But good grip and no lack of personality. Good, but lacks a little class on the follow-through. From 2013.
15.0
Teurons, Domaine Rossignol-Trapet.
Medium colour. Soft, fruity nose. Lacks a bit of grip but ripe enough. Medium to medium-full weight. Balanced. Attractive. There is more depth than seems on the nose. Well made. Good. From 2012. 15.0
Vignes Franches, Domaine Latour.
Medium colour. Soft nose. A little anodyne. Medium weight. Ripe, even a bit sweet. Could have done with more grip. Decent style and a positive finish. Good. From 2012. 15.0
Hospices de Beaune, Premier Cru, Cuvée Maurice Drouhin, Seguin-Manuel.
Good full colour. Rich, concentrated, plummy nose. Fullish body. Some tannin. No exaggerated oak but
a little four-square, even clumsy, on the palate. Lacks fragrance. Good at best. From 2015. 15.0
VOLNAY
Angles, Domaine Louis Boillot.
Medium-full colour. The wine is corked, but one can see something of substance and depth; ready probably in 2012 or so.
Brouillard, Domaine Roblet-Monnot.
Medium-full colour. This is thin, reduced, artificially sweet and unpleasant. Surely this can't be a representative bottle?
Caillerets, Domaine Henri Boillot.
Medium-full colour. Smoky nose. Medium-full body. Fresh and fragrant. Yet with the earthy/oaky flavour apparent on the nose. Long, complex. Very good plus. From 2013. 16.5
Caillerets, Domaine Bouchard Père et Fils.
Medium-full colour. A slight smell of bonfires here. Decent attack. Medium weight. A slight lack of freshness and zip on the follow-through, but ripe and the finish is not short. Good. From 2012. 15.0
Caillerets, Domaine Lafarge.
Medium-full colour. Good depth and plenty of style and dimension here. Medium-full body. Some tannin. Ripe and rich. Good grip. Needs time. Lovely finish. Very good indeed. From 2015. 17.0
Carelle sous la Chapelle, Domaine Jean-Marc Boillot.
Medium-full colour. Smoky nose. Ripe and spicy. But only medium bodied on the palate. Short and thin. Forward. From 2010. 13.0
Champans, Domaine Marquis d'Angerville.
Medium to medium-full colour. Quite closed-in on the nose, but good style and depth evident. Medium-full body. Some tannin. Ripe and succulent. Very good grip. Long and positive. Lovely finish. Fine. From 2014. 17.5
Champans, Domaine des Comtes Lafon.
Medium-full colour. Good depth and plenty of substance on the nose. Ripe and generous. Plenty of vigour. Medium-full body. Balanced, fragrant, poised, complex and multi-dimensional. Classic. Fine plus. From 2015. 18.0
Champans, Domaine de Montille.
Medium colour Some depth on the nose and rather more weight than their Beaune, Grèves. Balanced, complex, long and vigorous. Classy too. Very good. From 2014. 16.0
Chevrets, Domaine Henri Boillot.
Medium-full colour. Fresh, fragrant and very Volnay on the nose. Medium-full body. Some tannin. Good grip. Not as rich or as generous as some but no lack of style and depth. Very good. From 2013. 16.0
Clos de la Barre, Maison Jadot.
Medium to medium-full colour. Soft, oaky, but slightly bland nose. Ripe though and not a bit unstylish. Medium body. Ripe, forward, attractive and decently balanced. Easy to enjoy. Good plus. From 2012. 15.5
Clos de la Bousse d'Or, Domaine de la Pousse d'Or.
Good colour. A curious smell of soap at first. Better on the palate. Medium to medium-full body. Succulent and ripe and persistent. Lots of fruit. Fresh. Not a lot of backbone, but attractive and stylish, and with a positive finish. Very good plus. From 2012. 16.5
Clos de la Chapelle, Maison Nicolas Potel.
Medium-full colour. Fresh, quite oaky nose. Good substance, concentration, tannins and acidity. Backward. No lack of depth. Will get more charming as it evolves. Good plus or better. From 2014. 15.5
Clos de Château des Ducs, Domaine Michel Lafarge.
Medium to medium-full colour. Round, ripe nose. At first a touch of reduction which hid the fragrance. Better on the palate. Medium to medium-full body. Good fruit and grip. Positive and balanced. I'd like to see a fresher bottle. From 2014. ( ? 16.0)
Clos des Chênes, Domaine Michel Lafarge.
Good colour. Splendid nose. Fullish, vigorous, rich and concentrated. Above all, very classy. Full body. A splendid essence of Pinot Noir fruit. Very complete and very fine at the end. Very lovely. Fine plus. From 2015. 18.0
Clos des Chênes, Domaine des Comtes Lafon.
Medium to mediufull colour. Fragrant nose: somewhat ungainly, but this is the youth of the wine. Medium body. Good grip and attractive fruit, but a bit unbalanced. Quite forward. Good at best. From 2011. 15.0
Clos des Ducs, Domaine Marquis d'Angerville.
Medium-full colour. Plump nose, but the fruit lacks style, and the wine lacks succulence. Medium body. Slight astringency. Lacks charm. From 2011. 14.0 (Note: this came as a big surprise after the results were revealed. Perhaps a bad bottle. But none of us was enthusiastic.)
Clos de la Rougeotte, Domaine Henri Boillot.
Medium-full colour. Soft, elegant, very Volnay, fragrant, oaky nose. Somewhat thin on the palate though. A little attenuated and a little sweet. Fair at best. From 2011. 13.5
Fremiets, Domaine d'Angerville.
Medium-full colour. Attractive, succulent fruit on the nose. Full body. Good tannins. Rich, generous, even fat. Very good finish. Long and stylish. Very good. From 2013. 16.0
Fremiets, Domaine Henri Boillot.
Medium to medium-full colour. Ripe, fragrant, and very clean and positive on the nose. Medium-full body. Harmonious, classy, and succulent. Long and very promising. Very good plus. From 2013. 16.5
Robardelle, Domaine Roblet-Monnot.
Medium to medium-full colour. Not much nose. Medium to medium-full body. Some tannin. Decent balance, but there seems to be a lack of succulence and true Volnay character. From 2011. 13.0
Santenots, Maison Champy.
Good colour. Ripe, succulent, balanced nose. Stylish. Good sustance and depth. Slightly earthy, but quite concentrated. Good follow through. Very good. From 2012. 16.0
Santenots de Milieu, Domaine des Comtes Lafon.
Very good colour. Closed in on the nose, but very rich and concentrated underneath. Still very young but a very promising wine. Full body. Quite tannic, but the tannins are very ripe. Splendid long, satisfying finish. Fine plus. From 2015. 18.0
Santenots, Domaine Roblet-Monnot.
Medium-full colour. Rather over-evolved. A touch of volatile acidity. Medium weight. Decent fruit. But it tails off. Forward. Only fair. From 2011. 13.0
Taillepieds, Domaine de Montille.
(Magnum) Medium-full colour. Fragrant nose. Not very forthcoming at first, but with fine, high-toned fruit. Medium to medium-full body. Elegant and delicious on the palate. Very Volnay. Intense, harmonious and profound. Lovely. From 2014. 17.5
POMMARD
Epenots, Maison Camille Giroud.
Medium to medium-full colour. The tannins are a little earthy, but there is very good fruit on the nose. Medium-full body. Good grip. Ripe, succulent and classy. Lots of depth. Very good. From 2015. 16.0
Fremiers, Domaine Louis Boillot.
Fullish colour. Full, rich, firm and backward on the nose. Full and tannic. Backward but profound on the palate. Very fine grip. Lots of dimension. Fine. From 2016. 17.5
Jarollières, Domaine Jean-Marc Boillot.
Medium to medium-full colour. Ripe, plump nose. Fullish but not aggressive. Medium-full body. Attractive balanced fruit, if at the end, a bit crude. Quite good plus. From 2013. 14.5
Grands Epenots, Domaine Michel Gaunoux.
Good colour. Full, ample but jammy nose. Fullish body. Seems a bit stewed. Good tannins and decent acidity. But no flair. Quite good plus at best. From 2013. 14.5.
Pézerolles, Domaine de Montille.
Good colour. Ripe, full, assertive fruit on the nose. Medium to medium-full body. Fragrant on the palate. Good tannins. Very good grip. Long, and stylish and complex for a Pommard. Very good indeed. From 2012. 17.0
Rugiens, Domaine Bouchard Père et Fils.
Medium to medium-full colour. Slightly bland, though there is some substance here on the nose. Medium to medium-full body. Decent fruit. Slight astringency. Not unstylish. But it lacks grip. Quite good. From 2013. 14.0
Rugiens, Domaine Michel Gaunoux.
Good nose. Richer and more tannic on the nose than their Grands Epenots. Cleaner and rather better on the palate. Fullish body. Good grip. Plenty of rich fruit and a good, classy follow-through. Very good plus. From 2015. 16.5
Rugiens, Domaine de Montille.
Good colour. Full, rich, meaty nose. Much more to it than the Pézerolles. Fullish body. Good oak. Some tannin and very well put together. Very good grip. Lots of dimension and class. Fine. From 2014.
17.5
Rugiens, Domaine du Pavillon,
Medium-full colour. Good depth and class on the nose. Medium-full body. Ripe tannins. Plenty of depth. Lots of style. Long and complex. Very good indeed. From 2014. 17.0
NUITS-SAINT-GEORGES
Argillas, Domaine Chauvenet-Chopin.
Medium colour. Soft, gently oaky, seductive, ripe nose. Medium body. A succulent, charming wine with no hard edges. Quite forward. Very good. From 2012. 16.0
Boudots, Domaine Jean Grivot.
Good colour. Very lovely full, rich, profound nose. Very gently oaky. Fullish body. Elegant, especially for a Nuits-Saint-Georges. Lots and lots of depth and concentration. Fine plus. From 2017. 18.0
Boudots, Domaine Louis Jadot.
Fine colour. Lovely rich, concentrated, classy nose. Fullish. Very ripe tannins. Potentially velvety. Very lovely, rich, harmonious fruit on the palate. Very Vosne-ish. Long. Fine plus. From 2015. 18.0
Boudots, Domaine Gérard Mugneret.
Medium-full colour. Soft, oaky nose. Perhaps a slight lack of grip. Medium body. A bit bland. Pretty fruit, but forward and a little too easy to drink at this stage. It lacks real depth. Good at best. From 2011. 15.0
Bousselottes, Domaine Jean Chauvenet.
Medium-full colour. Firm, rich nose. Really very fine fruit here. Fullish body. Good tannins. Very good grip. This need time but it has vigour and lots of class. Lovely finish. Fine. From 2017. 17.5
Cailles, Domaine Chevillon.
Full colour. Very rich and ripe on the nose. Plenty of substance and depth. Medium-full body. Good fruit and a long positive aftertaste. Very good indeed. From 2015. 17.0
Chaignots, Domaine Faiveley.
Fullish colour. Ample, concentrated, quite full nose. Quite firm. Lots of depth. Lots of finesse for a Nuits-Saint-Georges. Fullish. Some tannin. Rich and ripe. Very good grip. Classy and vigorous. Long. Fine. From 2015. 17.5
Chaignots, Domaine Alain Michelot.
Full coour. Still quite tight on the nose. Rich and fullish. A bit adolescent, but fragrant, balanced, ripe and full of fruit. Very good depth and complexity. Classy too. Very good plus. From 2015. 16.5
Chaignots, Domaine Georges Mugneret.
Fine colour. Good firm nose. Rich and full and quite sturdy. Very Nuits-Saint-Georges. Plenty of depth. Medium-full body. Rich, concentrated and oaky on the palate. Lots of ripe, succulent fruit. Long and harmonious. Most attractive. Very seductive. Fine plus. From 2015. 18.0
Clos des Argillières, Domaine Michelle et Patrice Rion.
Medium colour. Rich, backward nose. Good style. Medium-full body. Ripe tannins. Balanced. Nice and fresh and classy. Good grip. Finishes well. From 2015. 16.0
Clos de l'Arlot, Domaine de l'Arlot.
Medium colour. Some development. Soft and classy on the nose. Medium body. A little tannin. Soft and fragrant on the palate. No hard edges. An attractive wine which will come forward soon. From 2011. 16.0
Clos de Fôrets-Saint-Georges, Domaine de l'Arlot.
Medium yo medium-full colour. Chunky nose but no lack of style. Medium-full body. More sophisticated on the palate than on the nose. Some tannin. Good grip. Shows well. From 2015. 16.0
Clos de la Maréchale, Domaine Jacques Frédéric Mugnier.
Full colour. Remarkably stylish, fragrant nose. It really has a Chambolle touch. Medium-full body. Good, plump attack. Not quite the grip and flair on the follow-through for fine, but long and potentially silky-smooth. From 2015. 17.0
Clos des Porrets-Saint-Gerges, Domaine Henri Gouges.
Full colour. A little closed in on the nose at first; not as approachable as their Pruliers. Better on the palate. Medium-full body. Good grip. Attactive plummy fruit. Long, complex and classy. Fine. From 2017. 17.5
Damodes, Domaine Jean Chauvenet.
Medium-full colour. Quite firm but good depth on the nose. Medium-full body. Good tannins. Good grip. Meaty and muscular, but classy and quite profound. Very good fruit and a long positive finish. Fine. From 2015. 17.5
Murgers, Domaine Méo-Camuzet.
Medium-full colour. Full, ample, ripe nose, with a touch of oak. Medium-full body. Definitely oaky on the palate. Ripe and succulent. Very fine grip. Not a blockbuster but a very elegant wine with a lovely finish. Fine plus. Now 2015. 18.0
Perrières, Domaine Jean Chauvenet.
Full colour. Ripe, very rich, abundant, meaty nose. Full body. Some tannin. Very superieur fruit here, pretty well of grand cru quality. Needs time, but long, vigorous and very promising. Fine plus. From 2016. 18.0
Pruliers, Domaine Chevillon.
Medium to medium-full colour. Rich, full and meaty on the nose. Lots of fruit here. Fullish body. Very good tannins. Very fine grip. Vigorous, rich and opulent. Long on the palate. Fine plus. From 2016. 18.0
Pruliers, Domaine Henri Gouges.
Full colour. Full, ample, rich and positive on the nose. Very lovely fruit here. Fullish body. This has real depth and concentration and not a bit of the habitual Nuits brutality. Fine plus. From 2017. 18.0
(Note: We had a less exciting bottle at the Group Tastng.)
Pruliers, Domaine Jean Grivot.
Medium-full colour. Soft, stylish nose, rather more advanced than some. Medium to medium-full colour. Ripe, balanced and attractive. Lovely finish. For reasonably early drinking but a most enjoyable wine. From 2013. 16.5
Les Saint-Georges, Domaine Thibaut Liger-Belair.
Medium-full colour. Refined, fragrant, classy nose. Not the volume of some of these middle Nuits-Saint-Georges, but has medium to medium-full body and lovely succulent fruit and very good grip. Fine. Now 2014. 17.5
Vaucrains, Domaine Jean Chauvenet.
Fullish colour. Closed-in, oaky nose. Medium-full body. Attractive, succulent, balanced fruit. Not a blockbuster but with plenty of flair. From 2013. 17.0
Vaucrains, Domaine Chevillon.
Medium to medium-full colour. Soft, round, balanced, ripe, quite forward nose. Medium-full body. Fragrant, fresh, elegant and complex. Will evolve sooner than some Very good indeed. From 2012. 17.0
VOSNE-ROMANEE
Premier Cru, Domaine Gros Frère et Soeur.
Medium-full colour. Plump balanced nose, but lacks a little class. Medium-full body. Decent fruit. Good grip. Vigorous but not very elegant on the palate. Good plus at best. From 2015. 15.5
Beaux-Monts, Domaine Clavelier.
Medium-full colour. Good rich, fat, creamy, gently oaky nose. On the palate medium-full body. No hard edges, potentially. Ripe, round, fresh and attractive. A seductive wine. Long on the palate. Fine plus. From 2014. 18.0
Beaux-Monts, Domaine Jean Grivot.
Good colour. Closed in on the nose, but very elegant and very complex. Full body. Brilliant fruit. Not a blockbuster but all the more subtle as a result. Very harmonious. Real finesse. Very fine indeed. From 2017. 18.5
Beaux-Monts, Domaine Cecile Tremblay.
Fullish colour. Fresh, firm, closed-in nose. Profound and classy. Fullish body. Very lovely concentrated, vigorous, ripe fruit on the palate. Very good grip. This has length, depth, and high quality. Very fine. From 2015. 18.5
Brulées, Domaine Clavelier.
Medium-full colour. Medium-full weight. The wine was somewhat corky, but nevertheless, though certainly very good, not up to the standard of his Beaux-Monts. From 2014. (?16.0 - 17.0)
Brulées, Domaine Michel Gros.
Medium-full colour. Accessible, fresh, fruity nose. Not a blockbuster. Medium-full body. Only a modicum of tannin. Crisp and ripe and attractive. But not as profound or as intense as some. Very good indeed. From 2013. 17.0
Brulées, Domaine Méo-Camuzet.
Full colour. Rich, oaky, substantial and profound on the nose. Medium-full weight. Ample, ripe, rich and harmonious. Complex and classy. Long. Very fine. From 2015. 18.5
Chaumes, Domaine Lamarche.
Medium-full colour. Ripe, rich, profound, oaky nose. Round, ample and succulent on the palate. Fullish. Vigorous. A lovely, intense, classy, understated wine. Very fine at the end. From 2015. 18.5
Chaumes, Domaine Méo-Camuzet.
Very good colour. Full, rch, ample, oaky nose. Full body. Very good tannins. Lots of grip and energy. Plenty of concentrated, plummy fruit. Like the nose, quite oaky on the palate, but not excessively so. Fine. From 2017. 17.5
Clos de Réas, Domaine Michel Gros.
Fine colour. Very lovely, harmonious fruit on nose and palate. Medium-full body. Excellent grip. Concentrated and potentially very smooth and silky. Lots of subtelty and dimension. Very long and very lovely. Fine plus. From 2015. 18.0
Malconsorts, Domaine Cathiard.
Fullish colour. High-toned nose. Vibrant, fragrant and intense. Some oak. Medium-full body. Ripe, rich, ample and succulent. Long, classy and very seductive. Very fine. From 2015. 18.5
Malconsorts, Domaine du Clos Frantin.
Medium colour. Most attractive fruit on the nose. Ripe and succulent. Medium to medium-full body. Very good grip. Not a blockbuster but vigorous, intense, very classy and very harmonious. Fine. From 2014. 17.5
Malconsorts, Domaine Lamarche.
Full colour. Rich; profound, classy, gently oaky nose. Fullish body. Firm. Closed-in. Intense, long and profound. Lovely finish. Very fine. From 2015. 18.5
Malconsorts, Domaine de Montille.
Medium colour. Fragrant nose. Ripe and elegant. Soft and subtle. Only medium bodied. Good fruit, but not the intensity and drive of the wines above. Yet a very attractive stylish wine. Very good. From 2012. 16.0
Orveaux, Domaine Cathiard.
Full colour. Open, round, rich, oaky nose. Medium full body. Succulent, ripe, rich and oaky on the palate. A very seductive wine with good supporting energy. Fine plus. From 2015. 18.0
Reignots, Domaine Cathiard.
Medium to medium-full colour. Fresh, succulent and oaky on the nose. Fullish. Quite meaty. Ample and vigorous. Good intensity and very good grip. Classy. Fine plus. From 2015. 18.0
Reignots, Domaine Grivot.
Fullish colour. Firm, rich, backward, profound nose. This is very lovely and very complete. Splendid intense, ripe, multi-dimensional fruit. Fullish body. Long, complex and classy. At first I was very complimentary (18.5) but it evolved fast in the glass. From 2015. 17.5
Reignots, Domaine Vicomte de Liger-Belair
Medium to medium-full colour. Attractive, plump, oaky nose. But only medium weight on the palate. Ripe. Good acidity. Plenty of length and finesse. Not great, but fine. From 2014. 17.5
Suchots, Domaine Grivot.
Fullish colour. Firm; backward nose. Rather tight at present. Quite a substantial wine. Good tannins. Very good grip. Plenty of ripe fruit, vigour and intensity. Got better and better in the glass. Very time I went back to it I marked it higher and higher. From 2017. 18.5
Suchots, Maison Louis Jadot.
Fine colour. Full, backward and concentrated on nose and palate. A very fine, cool, structured wine. Very long. Very complete. Lots of wine here. Lovely finish. Grand cru quality. From 2016. 18.5
CHAMBOLLE-MUSIGNY
Village A.C., Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé.
Medium-full colour. Lovely, fullish, fragrant, elegant nose: archetypal Chambolle-Musigny. Splendid fruit on the palate. Medium body. Great charm. Lovely classy finish. Very good indeed. From 2011.
17.0
Amoureuses, Domaine Amiot-Servelle.
Full colour. Both oaky and austere on the nose. Medium body. Good rich but rather artificial fruit, and a lack of grip, concentration and succulence. There seems to be a hollow in the middle of this wine, and a lack of Pinot flair. Disappointing for what it is. From 2012. 13.5
Amoureuses, Domaine Francois Bertheau.
Medium-full colour. Good depth on the nose. Quite firm. A little closed. Medium to medium-full body. Stylish. Good intensity and vigour, but not quite as much as there could have been with this climat. Very good plus. From 2012. 16.5
Amoureuses, Maison Alex Gambal.
Medium-full colour. Quite full, intense, fragrant nose. This has good depth and high quality. Fullish body. Not quite as rich, concentrated and elegant as it could be on the palate, but very good indeed. From 2015. 17.0
Amoureuses, Domaine Robert Groffier.
Full colour. Backward, concentrated, intense and fragrant on the nose. Fullish body. Firm, profound, very lovely, classy fruit. Complex and multi-dimensional. Not a bit soupy, which Groffier's wines can be sometimes. Lovely finish. Fine plus. From 2018. 18.0
Amoureuses, Domaine Jacques Frédéric Mugnier.
Good colour. Stylish, persistent and complex on the nose. Very lovely classy fruit here. Medium-full body. Soft; elegant, long and lovely. Archetypal Amoureuses. From 2013. 18.5
Amoureuses, Domaine Georges Roumier.
Firm, youthful colour. Very fine, closed-in, profound nose. Classy fruit. Some oak. Full body. Quite some tannin. Very good acidity. Very fine fruit. Still very much an infant, but potentially very fine. From 2020. 18.5
Amoureuses, Domaine Hervé Roumier.
Medium-full colour. Fragrant nose. Balanced, fruity, charming and with good intensity. Medium to medium-full body. Not quite classy or complex enough for a top Amoureuses, but very good plus. Quite forward. From 2012. 16.5
Amoureuses, Domaine Comte Georges de Vogûé.
Full colour. Quite closed-in on the nose, bur clearly very profound. Fullish body. Some tannin. Fresh, youthful, vigorous and classy. Slendid quality. Very fine. From 2016. 18.5
Charmes, Domaine Ghislaine Barthod.
Fullish colour. Backward, but potentially rich and profound on the nose. Medium to medium-full body. Plenty of class. Very good stylish fruit. I would have liked just a little more zip, but this going to be a very seductive wine. From 2013. 16.5
Charmes, Michelle et Patrice Rion.
Fullish colour. Very lovely, slightly austere fruit on the nose. Profound and classy on the palate. Firm and fullish in body. Marvelous, intense fruit. Very long. Fine plus. From 2015. 18.0
Combe d'Orveaux, Domaine Taupenot-Merme.
Medium-full colour. A little bit more protective sulphur here than in most of these wines, which makes it more difficult to taste. Medium to medium-full body. Good fruit. Slightly four-square at present, but decent grip; even class, and it finishes better than it starts. Very good. From 2014. 16.0
Cras, Domaine Ghislaine Barthod.
Medium-full colour. Soft, ripe, black-cherry flavoured nose. Not a blockbuster. Medium-full body. Rich, round, intense and very lovely. Really classy. Very long and complex. Very fine. From 2014. 18.5
Cras, Domaine Georges Roumier.
Fullish colour. Ripe, quite firm, fullish and spicy on the nose. Fullish body. Rich, some tannin and with very good grip and reserves behind it. Plenty of class. Got better and better in the glass. Very fine. From 2015. 18.5
Fremières, Domaine Digioia-Royer.
Medium-full colour. Succulent, fat, ripe nose. Medium-full body. Very good style. Ripe tannins and very good grip. Long. Fresh. Ample. Very good plus. From 2015. 16.5
Fuées, Domaine Ghislaine Barthod.
Fullish colour. Backward but profound and classy on the nose. Fullish body. This is very lovely. Complex, backward and oozing with fruit. Very long and seductive at the end. Very fine. From 2015. 18.5
Fuées, Domaine Jacques Frédéric Mugnier.
Fullish colour. Rich, fat, profound, complete and classy on the nose. A very ample, rich, succulent wine. Fullish body. Very good grip. Stylish and lovely. From 2014. 18.0
Groseilles, Domaine Digioia-Royer.
Medium-full colour. Muscular nose, lacking a little of the class of most of these Chambolles. Medium-full body. Good substance and balance but a little tough and ungainly. Quite good plus. From 2014. 14.5
Gruenchers, Domaine Digioia-Royer.
Medium-full colour. Succulent, ripe and fruity on the nose. Medium-full body. Ample and plump with good acidity. Very good length, intensity and style. Very good indeed. From 2015. 17.0
Gruenchers, Domaine Fourrier.
Medium-full colour. Firm but classy and balanced on the nose. Medium-full body. Succulent and elegant. Harmonious, long and classy. Very good indeed. From 2015. 17.0
Noirots, Domaine Arlaud.
Medium-full colour. Ripe, abundant nose, but quite open and evolved. Medium body. Soft and forward. Charming and attractive. Fresh at the end. Very good. From 2011. 16.0
MOREY-SAINT-DENIS
Premier Cru, Domaine Dujac.
Medium to medium-full colour. Stylish, ample, fragrant and succulent on the nose. Fullish. Good tannins. Very good acidity. Ripe and rich. Elegant, long and complex. Fine. From 2014. 17.5
Blanchards, Maison Frédéric Magnien.
Fullish colour. Not too oaky on the nose. Fresh fruit. Very good acidity. But slightly rigid on the palate. Medium to medium-full body. Ripe, succulent, fresh, and, if it wasn't for the oak, long and stylish. Very good. Better still if it softens up satisfactorily. From 2015. 16.0
Chezeaux, Domaine Arlaud.
Fullish colour. Ripe and rich on the nose. Succulent and fat. Medium-full body. It doesn't have the class of the Dujac above, but it is balanced and fruity. Good plus. From 2012. 15.5
Clos de la Bussière, Domaine Georges Roumier.
Medium-full colour. Rich nose: plump and attractive. Medium body. Fresh, ripe and accessible. No hard edges. Very good, classy finish. Very good indeed. From 2015. 17.0
Millandes, Domaine Arlaud.
Medium-full colour. Ripe, soft and fragrant on the nose. Medium to medium-full body. Fresh, balanced, succulent and attractive. Long and positive. But very good rather than great. From 2012. 16.0
Millandes, Domaine Serafin.
Fullish colour. This is a bit tight and closed-in. On the nose a little four-square. Medium-full body. Some tannin. Good grip. Underneath there is classy fruit. Needs time. Doesn't sing today, but very good, if not better still. All in good time. From 2015. 16.0
Riotte, Domaine Taupenot-Merme.
Medium-full colour. A lot of reduction here. So much so that I couldn't mark it. Some colleages marked it very good. I'll wait and see.
Ruchots, Jean-Louis et Didier Amiot, Domaine Pierre Amiot.
Medium colour. Ripe, soft and fragrant on the nose. Medium body. Gently oaky. Balanced and stylish. Good intensity and finesse if by no means a blochbuster. Forward but not short and very good indeed. From 2011. 17.0
GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN
Village A.C., Vieilles Vignes, Domaine Bernard Dugat-Py.
Full colour. Firm, rich nose. Still a bit closed. Lots of depth. A bit austere at present, but the tannins are very ripe. Plenty of fruit. Harmonious and quite concentrated, if without the elegance of a premier cru. Very good. From 2015. 16.0
Cazetiers, Domaine Bruno Clair.
Medium to medium-full colour. Fresh nose. Plenty of depth and class here. But quite closed. Medium to medium-full body. Intense. Very good grip. A cerebral, rather than an exotic wine. But long and with lots of finesse. Fine. From 2014. 17.5
Cazetiers, Domaine Faiveley.
Good colour. Full, slightly closed-in nose. Medium-full body. Very lovely fruit on the palate. Firm and energetic. Quite oaky in a slightly rigid way at present. Very good grip. Rich. Long. Fine. From 2015.
17.5
Cazetiers, Domaine Armand Rousseau.
Medium colour. Balanced, classy nose. Good depth. Attractive fruit. Medium to medium-full body. Ripe, plump. Very good indeed. From 2014. 17.0
Cazetiers, Domaine Serafin.
Medium to medium-full colour. Soft, ripe, stylish, gently oaky nose. Medium to medium-full body. Balanced, succulent, long and complex. Elegant all the way through. Very good indeed. From 2014. 17.0
Champeaux, Domaine Fourrier.
Medium to medium-full colour. Not a blockbuster but balanced and stylish on the nose. Medium-full body. Ripe and balanced. Fresh and complex. Long and positive. Very good. From 2014. 16.0
Champeaux, Domaine Denis Mortet.
Medium-full colour. Lovely, plump; classy nose. Gently oaky. Medium full body. Very rich: it's almost sweet. Very good grip. Long and stylish. Very good indeed. From 2015. 17.0
Cherbaudes, Domaine Louis Boillot.
Medium-full colour. Good fruit if slightly four-square on the nose. Medium-full body. Quite rich. Nicely fresh. Decent grip and class. Finishes positively. Good plus. From 2015. 15.5
Clos Prieur, Domaine Jean et Jean-Louis Trapet.
Medium to medium-full colour. Slightly reduced on the nose. Medium to medium-full body. It was difficult to see the class here. No lack of substance and fruit though. The Group marked it Quite Good Plus (14.5).From 2014
Clos Saint-Jacques, Domaine Bruno Clair.
Very good colour. Very lovely nose: slighly cooler and less seductive, as well as marginally less oaky than Rousseau's example. Equally impressive. Full body. Excellent tannins. Lots of finesse and very, very subtle and complex. Marvelous finish. Very fine. From 2017. 18.5
Clos Saint-Jacques, Domaine Sylvie Esmonin.
Full colour. Very, very rich and concentrated on the nose. Some oak. Lovely fruit. This is hugely seductive. The fruit is almost over-ripe. Fullish body. Excellent grip. Very fine. From 2016. 18.5
Clos Saint-Jacques, Domaine Fourrier.
Medium to medium-full colour. Rich, gently oaky, velvety nose. Medium to medium-full body. Fresh, attractive and balanced, if without the volume and intensity of the other Clos Saint-Jacques. Very good indeed. From 2014. 17.0
Clos Saint-Jacques, Domaine Louis Jadot.
Medium to medium-full colour. Subtle and classy on the nose. Understated and multi-dimensional. Medium to medium-full body. Harmonious, complex, classy and very long and lovely. Grand cru quality. Very fine. From 2014. 18.5
Clos Saint-Jacques, Domaine Armand Rousseau.
Good colour. Splendid nose. Very lovely rich, concentrated, perfumed fruit. The tannins underneath are very distinguished. Full body. Very complex and classy. The follow-through is ample, vigorous and very subtle. Grand cru quality, unmistakably. Very fine. From 2017. 18.5
Note: The Group as a whole overwhelmingly (by a good point and more out of 20) scored the Rousseau first among these Clos Saint-Jacques.
Clouseau, Domaine Drouhin-Larose.
Medium-full colour. Slightly four-square on the nose. But ripe and fullish. Medium-full body. Spicy and vigorous. Good grip. Not the greatest finesse but the finish is positive. Good plus. From 2015.
Combottes, Domaine Dujac.
Good colour. Lovly nose: ripe and sophisticated and complex. Quite backward and austere. Fullish body. Quite structured. Very good tannins. Lovely fruit. Long. Fine. From 2015. 17.5
Corbeaux, Domaine Clavelier.
Medium to medium-full colour. Ripe, abundant, slightly tarty fruit on the nose. Medium to medium-full body. A suggestion of astringency. Plump fruit. Decent balance. But slightly pedestrian. Quite good. From 2014. 14.0
Corbeaux, Domaine Denis Bachelet.
Medium-full colour. Rather reduced on the nose, and, as a result, rather astringent on the palate. Medium to medium-full body. Judgement reserved.
Crapillot, Domaine Humbert Frères.
Medium-full colour. Full nose. Rich, fat and backward, with a touch of mocha. Medium-full body. A muscular wine. But it has good grip and is ripe and vigorous, if not with the greatest class. Positive at the end. Good plus. From 2015. 15.5
Estounelles Saint-Jacques, Domaine Humbert Frères.
Medium to medium-full colour. Soft, plump nose. Medium-full body. Ripe, full of fruit, attractive and well balanced. Quite forward. Not the greatest depth but very good. From 2014. 16.0
Evocelles, Domaine de la Vougeraie.
Very good colour. Lovely nose. Not a bit chunky. Rich and potentially velvety. Very ripe fruit. Fragrant and succulent. Medium-full body. Very juicy and very elegant. Long on the palate. Unexpectedly elegant. Fine. From 2014. 17.5
Fonteny, Domaine Serafin.
Medium to medium-full colour. Plump nose, without the greatest of class. Medium-full body. Decent balance but the fruit is a little common. Quite good at best. From 2014. 14.0 (Note: others liked it better than I.)
Lavaux Saint-Jacques, Maison Chanson.
Medium to medium-full colour. Very reduced on the nose, and virtually undrinkable on the palate. Seems only medium weight. Judgement deferred.
Lavaux Saint-Jacques, Domaine Maume.
Medium to medium-full colour. Somewhat four-square on the nose. But with decently plump fruit. Medium to medium-full body. Good fruit, harmony and depth, and it got classier as it developed. Very good. From 2014. 16.0
Lavaux Saint-Jacques, Domaine Denis Mortet.
Medium-full colour. Ripe, rich, gently oaky nose. Most attractive. Medium-full body. Ripe tannins. Good grip. Plenty of fruit. Long and harmonious at the end. Very good indeed. From 2015. 17.0
Petite Chapelle, Domaine Humbert Frères.
Medium-full colour. Smells a little of peppermint. Medium to medium-full body. Decent fruit, though it could be richer. And the follow through is decent. But it's only good at best. From 2013. 15.0
Petite Chapelle, Domaine Rossignol-Trapet.
Medium colour. Some development. Soft, plump, elegant nose. Medium body. Ripe, stylish and harmonious, though by no means a blockbuster. Long on the palate. Very good. From 2013. 16.0
Poissenot, Domaine Humbert Frères.
Medium-full colour. Spicy and a bit dry on the nose: the wood tannins to the fore. But good depth underneath. Medium to medium-full body. Slightly four-square on the attack, but better on the follow through. A burly wine, but that is Gevrey. Good plus. From 2015. 15.5
GRANDS CRUS
CORTON
Corton, Domaine Bonneau du Martray.
Good colour. The nose is a little hidden at first. But there is plenty of good wine here. Good weight. Ripe, rich, stylish and with very good grip. Fine. From 2017. 17.5
Corton, Domaine Follin-Arbelet.
Medium colour. Good, firm, mocha-flavoured nose. Medium body. A bit confected on the palate. Some grip, but the finish lacks elegance. From 2010. 13.0
Corton, Domaine Tollot Beaut.
Medium colour. Earthy, ungainly nose. Medium weight. Coarse and stewed. Not for me. 10.0 (Note: others were more enthusiastic.)
Château Corton-Grancey, Domaine Louis Latour.
Medium colour. Quite evolved. Soft, fruity nose. Not a lot of substance or depth. Forward. Medium bodied. Sweet, indeed jammy. An unstylish wine yet quite fresh at the end. Not bad. From 2010. 13.0
Le Corton, Domaine Bouchard Père et Fils.
Medium to medium-full colour. Bland but fruity nose. Better on the palate. Decent grip and fragrance. Positive and really quite long. Good fruit. Yet not the depth and class of a real grand cru. From 2011. 15.0
Corton, Bressandes, Domaine Chandon de Briailles.
Medium colour. Loely nose. Really very classy fruit. Balanced and complex. Medium-full body. Splendid intensity on the palate. Lovely finish. This is most impressive. Fine. From 2016. 17.5
Corton, Bressandes, Domaine Follin Arbelet.
Medium-full colour. Round nose. Good ripe if somewhat anonymous fruit. Medium body. Lacks grip. One dimensional and very forward, especially for a Corton. From 2010. 13.0
Corton, Bressandes, Domaine Senard.
Just a little more colour than their Paulands. More weight on the nose too, and very good fruit. Ripe, harmonious, classy and complex, but only medium to medium-full bodied. Finishes well. Very good plus. From 2015.
Corton, Bressandes, Domaine Tollot-Beaut et Fils.
Good colour. Full, meaty nose, with some oak noticable. Medium to medium-full body. Decent fruit; But a little artisanal for a grand cru. Good at best. From 2015. 15.0
Corton, Clos des Cortons-Faiveley, Domaine Faiveley.
Medium-full colour. Classy nose. Concentration and grip here, and no lack of depth. Medium-full body. Fresh. Very good grip. Profound and classy, complex and vigorous. Fine. From 2015. 17.5
Corton, Clos des Marechaudes, Domaine du Pavillon.
Very good colour. Rich, concentrated, oaky nose. Lots of dimension here. Medium-full body. Good ripe tannins. A touch earthy but sophisticated enough. Ripe. Good grip. Finishes well. Very good. From 2014. 16.0
Corton, Clos du Roi, Domaine de Montille.
Medium-full colour. Quite a firm nose. Lots of depth and quality. Ripe, succulent and very rich. Rather more opulent than the Pougets. Full body. Lots of depth. Excellent fruit at the end. Very fine. From 2015. 18.5
Corton, Clos du Roi, Domaine de Vougeraie.
Medium-full colour. Fresh nose. Classy and profound. Medium-full body. This is a serious wine, unlike, sadly, the majority of these Cortons. Rich and concentrated. Very good grip and vigour. But above all classy. Fine plus. From 2015. 18.0
Corton; Hautes-Mourottes, Domaine d'Ardhuy.
Good colour. Ripe, firm, gently oaky nose. Fullish body. Somewhat rough and ready, but fine fruit underneath. Rich, balanced, very good grip. Long. Very god plus. From 2013. 16.5
Corton, Paulands, Domaine Senard.
Lightish colour. Pleasant ripe fruit on the nose. But surely Cortons should be bigger and more concentrated than this? Medium body. Elegant and balanced, classy and stylish nonetheless, with good energy at the end. Good plus. From 2012. 15.5
Corton, Pougets, Domaine Louis Jadot.
Good colour. Closed-in nose. Very fresh, lovely black cherry fruit. Full body, firm and backward; even quite sturdy. Lots of vigour. Very good tannins and very good grip. This has real depth. Fine plus. From 2016. 18.0
Corton, Pougets, Domaine de Montille.
Medium-full colour. Full, rich, somewhat meaty-earthy nose. Full body. Ripe tannins. Quite a sizeable wine. Still a bit closed. Very god grip. Intense and classy on the follow-through. Long. Fine plus. From 2015. 18.0
Corton, Rognets, Domaine Taupenot-Merme.
Medium-full colour. Some fruit here on the nose, though there is lack of elegance. Medium to medium-full body. A little coarse and stewed. Only fair. From 2012. 13.0
Corton, Rognets, Maison Camille Giroud.
Medium-full colour. Soft, fresh, fruity and balanced on the nose. Medium-full body. Not the greatest depth and style (for a grand cru), but ample, harmonious and fresh at the end. Good. From 2013. 15.0
Hospices de Beaune, Corton, Cuvée Dr. Peste, Pierre-Yves Colin.
Full colour. A big, tannic example. Classy fruit and very good grip. Full bodied. Good tannins. Lots of energy. Fine quality. From 2016. 17.5
ECHEZEAUX AND GRANDS ECHEZEAUX
Echézeaux, Domaine Jacques Cacheux.
Full colour. Rich, full, slightly solid nose. Full bodied and fat on the palate. Some tannin. Some oak. Somewhat four-square but nice and ripe and rich underneath. Lots of energy. Very good indeed. From 2016. 17.0
Echézeaux, Maison Alex Gambal.
Fullh colour. Good cool, rich, classy, Pinot nose. Good energy in a spicy sort of way. Medium-full body. Ripe tannins. Nicely fragrant. Elegant. Long. Fine. From 2016. 17.5
Echézeaux, Domaine Grivot.
Full colour. A little reduced on the nose. At first I was not very impressed, but it just got better and better in the glass as the reduction blew off. Fullish. Very good grip. Ripe tannins. Inreasingly classy. Very good indeed, perhaps better. From 2016. 17.0
Echézeaux, Domaine Lamarche.
Medium-full colour. Good vigour and intensity on the nose. Lovely fruit if not a blackbuster. Round, ripe, succulent and oaky on the palate. Fruity and abundant. Good grip. Long, complex and classy. Fine plus. From 2015. 18.0
Echézeaux, Maison Potel.
Fullish colour. Soft, elegant, oaky, fruity nose. Not the greatest depth and complexity, but attractive fruit here and quite fresh with it. Positive finish and no lack of finesse. Very good indeed. From 2014. 17.0
Echézeaux, Domaine Emmanuel Rouget.
Medium colour. Soft, rich fruit on the nose. Attractive if with no real distiction. No undue oak though. Ripe, medium-full body. Soft and sexy. Sweet and seductive. Not a lot of tannin. Fresh. Long on the palate. Quite forward. Very good plus. From 2013. 16.5
Grands Echézeaux, Domaine du Clos Frantin.
Medium-full colour. Profound nose. Slightly more structured and a little more hidden than their Clos de Vougeot. Fullish body. Excellent fruit. Intense and virile and very, very lovely. Very fine. From 2016. 18.5
Grands-Echézeaux, Domaine Gros Frère et Soeur.
Full colour. Sturdy nose. Full, oaky and quite high in volatile acidity. Better as it evolved. Not too four- square but somewhat adolescent, even medicinal at present. It lacks the generosity of the vintage. Odd. Very good plus at best. From 2016. 16.5.
Grands-Echézeaux, Domaine Mongeard-Mugneret.
Fullish colour. Slightly rustic nose. Medium-full body. Ripe but not much depth, let alone sophistication or concentration. Forward. Quite good at best. From 2011. 14.0
Grands-Echézeaux, Maison Nicolas Potel.
Fulish colour. Rich, fat and concentrated on the nose. Medium-full body. Some tannin. An altogether bigger wine than his Echézeaux, but as it was a litle corked it was difficult to judge definitively. To be re-tasted. From 2016.
CLOS DE VOUGEOT
Clos de Vougeot, Domaine du Clos Frantin.
Medium-full colour. Fine, ripe, rich, generous, gently oaky nose. Fullish body. Finely ripe fruit. Excellent grip. Very lovely complexity here. Real class and depth. Lovely finish. Fine plus. From 2015. 18.0
Clos de Vougeot, Domaine Jean Grivot.
Very good colour. Full, classy but backward nose. Similar palate. Some tannin. Very good grip. This is going to need time. Really profound and concentrated though, and with real finesse. Very fine indeed. From 2020. 18.5
Clos de Vougeot, Domaine Michel Gros.
Medium-full colour. Ripe, quite oaky nose. Good depth. Fullish, balanced, vigorous and classy. Delicious fruit. Lovely finish. Fine plus. From 2015. 18.0
Clos de Vougeot, Domaine Lamarche.
Medium-full colour. Stylish nose. Ripe, oaky and profound. Medium-full body. Very good grip. Good tannins. Vigorous and long and with lots of potential. Nicely minerally at the end. Very fine. From 2015. 18.5
Clos de Vougeot, Domaine Sylvain Loichet.
Fullish colour. Plump nose, if without the distiction of most. Medium-full body. Some tannin. Good acidity. This is certainly praiseworthy, but the fruit is not sophisticated enough for 'fine'. From 2015. 16.5
Clos de Vougeot, Domaine Méo-Camuzet.
Full colour. Ample, plump, oaky nose. Medium-full body. Abundant and succulent on the palate. Good acidity. Not quite the vigour and intensity, or even the class of the very best, but very good indeed. From 2015. 17.0
Clos de Vougeot, Domaine Denis Mortet.
Full colour. Firm, rich, profound, oaky nose. Fullish body. Very rich on the palate. Very good grip. Long. Fine. From 2015. 17.5
Clos de Vougeot, Domaine Tortochot.
Full colour. Stewed nose. A touch of chlorine. Ungainly. Medium to medium-full body. Indifferent fruit. Only fair. From 2010. 13.0
Clos de Vougeot, Domaine de la Vougeraie.
Medium-full colour. Soft nose. Ripe and subtle. Medium to medium-full body. Generous and attractive. Classy and profound. Fine. From 2014. 17.5
THE VOSNE-ROMANEE GRANDS CRUS
La Grande Rue, Domaine Lamarche.
Full colour. Rich, full, ripe and oaky on the nose. Lots of depth and quality here. Splendidly opulent and seductive on the palate. Excellent grip. Full body. Great finesse at the end. A great wine. From 2018. 20.0
La Romanée, Domaine Vicomte de Liger-Belair.
Medium-full colour. Closed in; oaky nose. Ripe and succulent. Medium-full body. Not as structured as some of these Vosne grands crus. Very fine fruit. Very good grip. Complex, elegant, multi-dimentional and very lovely. From 2015. 19.0
Romanée-Saint-Vivant, Domaine de L'Arlot.
Medium-full colour. Gamey, nutty nose, showing evidence of vinification with the stems. Fullish body. Excellent grip. Lovely, intense, pure fruit. No undue tannins. Real finesse. Long and complex, but it perhaps could have done with a little more weight and concentration. Fine plus. From 2016. 18.0
Richebourg, Domaine Grivot.
Full colour. Splendidly concentrated and complex on the nose, but still very closed in. Full body, finely tuned, fragrant, understated and very harmonious. Vigorous, intense and very classy indeed on the follow through. This is excellent. From 2018. 19.5
Richebourg, Domaine Anne Gros.
Fullish colour. Backward, very concentrated nose. Very lovely pure fruit. Quite structured, but very, very classy. On the palate just about perfect. Fullish body. Very harmonious. Vigorous, profound and multi-dimensional. Utterly delicious concentrated fruit. A great wine. From 2020. 20.0
Richebourg, Domaine Gros Frère et Soeur.
Very full colour. Rich, fat, concentrated nose. Full body. Backward. Tannic. Very youthful. Excellent grip. This got better and better in the glass. Splendid fruit and a very lovely finish. From 2018. 19.0
Richebourg, Domaine Thibaut Liger-Belair.
Full colour. Closed in nose. But there is plenty of fruit and substance here. Slightly adolescent at present – like most of the rest it improved significantly in thr glass – but rich and concentrated and full and profound. Very good grip. Needs time. Very fine. From 2017. 18.5
BONNES MARES AND MUSIGNY
Bonnes Mares, Domaine Francois Bertheau.
Full colour. Rich, lush, oaky nose. Fullish body. Oaky on the palate. Fresh. Very good acidity. Lovely fruit. Long and lingering at the end. Great charm here. Fine plus. From 2015. 18.0
Bonnes Mares, Domaine Groffier.
Good colour. Ample, plump nose. Elegant fruit and a lot of class. Good attack, but then it tails off just a bit. It lacks the complexity of Roumier, for instance. Fine, nevertheless. From 2015. 17.5
Bonnes Mares, Domaine Jacques Frédéric Mugnier.
Good colour. Quite closed on the nose but a less substantial wine than Roumier's example. Fullish body. Lovely fruit and very good harmony. A little adolescent at present but very fine, I'm sure. From 2017. 18.5
Bonnes Mares, Domaine Georges Roumier.
Very good colour. Marvelous fragrant Chambolle fruit on the nose. Really delicious. Splendidly abundant on the palate. Full body. Very good grip. Lots of energy and intensity, especially at the end. Yet, for once, Musigny-ish rather than Bonnes Mares-ish. Excellent. From 2020. 19.5
Bonnes Mares, Domaine Comte Georges de Vogûé.
Good colour. Firm, quite closed nose. Full body. Rich. Profound. Backward. Gently oaky. Splendidly balanced and with very lovely fruit. Very fine plus. From 2018. 19.0
Musigny, Domaine Jacques Frédéric Mugnier.
Good colour. Quite oaky on the nose. Fullish body. Lovely fruit, if a little closed at the moment. Underneath there is a wine of splendid harmony, complexity and great elegance. Very fine plus. From 2016. 19.0
Musigny, Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé.
Full colour. Closed-in nose. Very lovely fragrant fruit, yet quite sizeable. Full bodied. Backward. Very, very concentrated and very, very high class. Marvelous fruit. Very, very long, complex and pure. Potentially a great wine. But currently merely an infant. From 2020. 20.0
THE MOREY SAINT DENIS GRANDS CRUS
Clos des Lambrays, Domaine des Lambrays.
Fullish colour. A surprisingly big wine for Clos des Lambrays. Rich, profound fruit on the nose. Fullish body. Very elegant and with really lovely harmonious fruit and very good grip. Lovely finish. Very fine. From 2016. 18.5
Clos de la Roche, Domaine Joseph Drouhin.
Fullish colour. Rich, fat, but very Drouhin fragrance on the nose. High class fruit. Medium-full body. Very ripe tannins. This is quite accessible. Concentrated, harmonious and stylish. Not a blockbuster but fine plus. From 2014. 18.0
Clos de la Roche, Domaine Dujac.
Full colour. Rich, concentrated nose. Nice and fat. Compared with earlier Dujacs this has more backbone and intensity. Excellent fruit and really profound. Very fine. From 2015. 18.5
Clos de la Roche, Domaine Louis Remy
Medium-full colour. Elegant and intense on the nose. By no means a blockbuster but stylish and harmonious. Medium to medium-full body. Refined and rich. Well-balanced. Long on the palate. Fine. From 2014. 17.5
Clos Saint-Denis, Domaine Dujac.
Very good colour; rather more than the Dujacs we were used to. Ample, ripe nose. Fullish body. Rich and balanced. Very good tannins. Fresh, complex, long and with lots of energy. Fine plus. From 2015. 18.0
Clos de Tart, Domaine Mommessin.
Full colour. Fine, rich, concentrated nose. Lots of depth and quality here. Full body. Very good tannins. Quite masculine in character compared with rest of this flight. But not a bit tough or four-square. A bachward wine with very fine depth, concentrated fruit and lots of grip. The best Clos de Tart for a generation. Very fine plus. From 2018. 19.0
CHARMES AND MAZOYERES-CHAMBERTIN
Charmes-Chambertin, Domaine Bachelet.
Medium-full colour. Ripe, concentrated nose. Medium-full body. Some tannin. Still very young. Attractive, cool, minerally fruit. But somewhat reserved. Very good grip. Lots of depth, and a very lovely finish. Fine plus. From 2015. 18.0
Charmes-Chambertin, Domaine Camus.
Good colour. Quite rich, plump nose. Medium body. Not a lot of depth and structure and less finesse than it showed at first on the palate. Fair at best. From 2010. 13.5
Charmes-Chambertin, Domaine Claude Dugat.
Fullish colour. Full on the nose too, with a touch of cooked fruit and a little more extraction than most. But still very delicious. Full body. Plenty of tannin and concentrated fruit, held together by very good grip. This is energetic, intense, pure and very long on the palate. Very fine. From 2020. 18.0
Charmes-Chambertin, Domaine Humbert Frères.
Fullish colour. Fresh, plump, ripe, cassis-flavoured nose. Medium-full body. Good tannins. Good ripe attack. Slightly less good at the end, but long and positive nevertheless. Very good indeed. From 2015. 17.0
Charmes-Chambertin, Domaine Maume.
Medium to medium-full colour. Soft, round nose. Attractive fruit if not a blockbuster. Medium to medium full body. Fresh. Very good but lacks the definition and class for great. From 2014. 16.0
Charmes-Chambertin, Domaine Serafin.
Fullish colour. Lots of depth and concentration on the nose. Full body. Splendid old-viney fruit. Very fine tannins. Lovely balance. Very, very, long, classy and complex. Very fine. From 2017. 18.5
Charmes-Chambertin, Domaine Armand Rousseau.
Medium colour. A little evolution. Clean and stylish, but a bit unforthcoming on the nose. Medium body. Not a lot of backbone, but fresh and balanced and not a bit short. Elegant finish. Very good plus. From 2013. 16.5
Charmes-Chambertin, Domaine Taupenot-Merme.
Medium to medium-full colour. Fresh, ripe nose. Plump and attractive. Easy to enjoy. Medium to medium-full body. Not a blockbuster. Clean and fruity. Very good. From 2014. 16.0
Mazoyeres-Chambertin, Domaine Taupenot-Merme.
Medium-full colour. This was a little reduced and so difficult to assess. Medium to medium-full body. Good grip. Decent tannins and no lack of fruit. Perhaps very good but to be seen again.
Charmes-Chambertin, Mazoyeres, Domaine de la Vougeraie.
Medium-full colour. Firm, rich, gently oaky nose. Good depth here. Medium-full body. Good tannins. Attractive fruit. Freshly blanced. Long. Fine plus. From 2015. 18.0
CHAPELLE, LATRICIERES, MAZIS AND RUCHOTTES-CHAMBERTIN
Chapelle-Chambertin, Domaine Rossignol-Trapet.
Medium to medium-full colour. Round, ripe, velvety nose. Medium-full body. Good style and concentration. Very good fruit and grip. Long, positive and classy. I like the vigour. Fine. From 2015. 17.5
Chapelle-Chambertin, Domaine Jean et Jean-Louis Trapet.
Medium to medium-full colour. A little evolution. Decent fruit but not the greatest of finesse on the nose. Medium body. Lacks real richness and concentration, and above all, vigour. Only quite good. From 2013. 14.0
Latricières-Chambertin, Domaine Simon Bize.
Medium to medium-full colour. Sweet and spicy and a little reduced on the nose. Medium to medium-full body. Quite a meaty wine, with good tannins and very good grip. Finishes positively, but it is difficult to assess the quality of the fruit. To be seen again. From 2015.
Latricières-Chambertin, Domaine Drouhin-Laroze.
Medium-full colour. Rich, fat, succulent, old-viney nose. Medium-full body. Quite austere at present. Good concentration. Very good acidity. Some tannin. Long on the palate. There is plenty in reserve here. Very good indeed, perhaps even better. From 2016. 17.0
Latricières-Chambertin, Domaine Faiveley.
Full colour. Ample, rich and concentrated on the nose. Good class, weight and depth, together with, as it evolved in the glass, the spice of this climat. Full body. Quite a bit of tannin. Backward. But vigorous, profound and with very good grip. Fine classy fruit. Long. Very fine. From 2020. 18.5
Latricières-Chambertin, Maison Camille Giroud.
Medium-full colour. Rich, fat, concentrated, and full of fruit on the nose. Very elegant. Lots of depth and quality. Medium-full body. Very lovely, rich, gently oaky fruit on the palate. Complex and classy. Will develop quite soon. Fine. From 2012. 17.5
Latricères-Chambertin, Domaine Louis Remy.
Medium-full colour. Quite a substantial wine on the nose. Rich and ample as well. Fullish body. Good tannins. Nicely concentrated, succulent character and good balancing acidity. Quite classy too. Very good indeed. From 2015. 17.0
Latricières-Chambertin, Domaine Rossignol-Trapet.
Medium to medium-full colour. Soft nose. Plump but not a lot of vigour. Decent attack but then it tails off a bit. Fruity, though, and not short. But good at best. From 2013. 15.0
Latricières-Chambertin, Domaine Jean et Jean-Louis Trapet.
Medium to medium-full colour. Aromatic if not very assertive nose. Decent fruit and quite fresh on the palate. Medium weight. Pleasant but not serious. Quite good. From 2013. 14.0
Mazis-Chambertin, Domaine Camus.
Good colour. A better wine than their Charmes. Medium-full body. Quite rich, ripe and fruity. Good tannins and good balance. This is very good. From 2014. 16.0
Mazis-Chambertin, Domaine Joseph Faiveley.
Full colour. Firm, rich, full, vigorous nose. This is quite a big tannic wine. Rich, oaky, concentrated, ripe and profound on the palate. Lots of depth and energy. Lovely fruit. Very long. Very fine. From 2018. 18.5
Mazis-Chambertin, Domaine Maume.
Medium-full colour. Classy fruit on the nose. Good concentration too. Fullish body. Rich, vigorous and balanced. Needs time. Plenty of potential here. Fine plus. From 2017. 18.0
Mazis-Chambertin, Maison Nicolas Potel.
Medium-full colour. Cool, classy, minerally nose. Medium-full body. Austere at present, but good tannins and plenty of fruit. Very good acidity. Lots of finesse. This is going to need time. It tastes more like a Ruchottes than a Mazis, but it's very good indeed. From 2017. 17.0
Ruchottes-Chambertin, Domaine Christophe Roumier.
Medium-full colour. Slightly austere but rich and concentrated on the nose. Fullish body. Ample, meaty and vigorous on the palate. Finishes well. Plenty of potential. Very good indeed. From 2017. 17.0
Ruchottes-Chambertin, Clos des Ruchottes, Domaine Armand Rousseau.
Fulish colour. Cool, fragrant, very classy nose, with the slight leanness I associate with this climat. Medium-full body. Ripe tannins. Very good grip. Very pure and classy fruit. More generous at the end than on the attack. Very, very lovely stylish finish. Fine plus. From 2016. 18.0
CHAMBERTIN, CLOS DE BEZE AND CHAMBERTIN
Chambertin, Clos de Bèze, Domaine Bruno Clair.
Medium-full colour. Closed-in but classy nose. Lovely fruit here and a touch of oak. Fullish body. Intense and vigorous. Very good tannins. High class fruit and very good grip. Long. Harmonious. Very fine plus. From 2017. 19.0
Chambertin, Clos de Bèze, Domaine Joseph Drouhin.
Fullish colour. A slight touch of austerity on the nose, and an absence of the real weight and concntration that Clos de Bèze should offer. Medium-full body. Classy and balanced but with the volume of a Charmes rather that a Clos de Bèze. Not exactly as voluminous or as concentrated as it should be. Fine plus but not great. From 2016. 18.0
Chambertin, Clos de Bèze, Domaine Drouhin-Laroze.
Fullish colour. Firm, full, rich, high quality nose. Fullish. Just a bit of astringency about the tannins. Yet very good acdity. Long and fine, but not great. From 2015. 17.5
Chambartin, Clos de Bèze, Domaine Joseph Faiveley.
Full colour. Rich, full, firm, tannic, closed-in nose. Similar on the palate. Quite a lot of tannin. Underlying oakiness too. Very lovely fruit. Needs time. High quality. From 2017. 18.0
Chambertin, Clos de Bèze, Domaine Groffier.
Medium-full colour. The wine is a little reduced, but one can see some substance and no lack of richness. Medium-full body. Very good acidity. It got better and better in the glass. Certainly at least very good. But I'll wait until I see it again. From 2016.
Chambertin, Clos de Bèze, Domaine Armand Rousseau.
Medium-full colour. Somewhat unforthcoming at first on the nose. But high quality sings out. Medium-full body. Rich, generous and succulent on the palate. Long, complex and classy. Very good intensity. Very fine plus. From 2017. 19.0
Chambertin, Maison Camille Giroud.
Medium to medium-full colour. Not a blockbuster but concentrated, complex, classy and harmonious on the nose. This is a lovely wine, which got better and better in the glass. Lots of finesse at the end. Not totally brilliant but fine plus. From 2017. 18.0
Chambertin, Domaine Rossignol-Trapet.
Medium-full colour. Ample, generous, creamy-rich nose. Fullish body. Old-viney concentration. Poised and multi-dimensional. Long and classy at the end. One of the very few Chambertins I have had in years which is up to Rousseau's standards. From 2017. 19.0
Chambertin, Domaine Armand Rousseau.
Medium-full colour. Closed-in but rich, concentrated nose. Good grip here. Medium-full body. Ripe, balanced, fresh and very profound and elegant. Exceptionally fine, complex fruit. Good as his Clos de Bèze is, this is, as always, just that bit superior. A great wine. Now 2019. 20.0
Chambertin, Domaine Jean et Jean-Louis Trapet.
Good colour. A bit hidden on the nose. Medium-full body. The attack is presently a little blunt, but ripe, ample, plummy and well-balanced on the follow through. Not the class of Rousseau's Chambertin. But then, what's new? Very good plus. From 2015. 16.5