Echézeaux, But Mainly Grands Echézeaux
The 38 hectare vineyard of Echézeaux is the fouth largest – after Corton, Corton-Charlemagne and Clos de Vougeot – climat in the Côte d'Or. The most important landholder is the Domaine de la Romanée-Conti. Other recommended producers include, in order of importance (by which I mean the size of their parcel), Emmanuel Rouget, Lamarche, Mugneret-Gibourg, Perdrix, Robert Arnoux, Faiveley, Grivot, Dujac, Engel (now the Domaine Eugenie), Jadot, Anne Gros, Drouhin and Bouchard Père et Fils. In total there are 84 producers.
Grands-Echézeaux is smaller, at just over 9 hectares. If you look upslope from the main road it is if someone has taken a bite out of the south-western corner of Clos de Vougeot. This is Grands-Echézeaux. Once again the main proprietor is the Domaine de la Romanée-Conti. The best of the 20 other owners are the Baron Thénard, whose wine is usually sold to Remoissenet Père et Fils, Engel (now Eugenie), Drouhin, Gros Frère et Soeur, Lamarche, Clos Frantin (Bichot) and Robert Sirugue.
Grands-Echézeaux is a seriously first division grand cru. Echézeaux can be variable, not necessarily better than the best of the Vosne-Romanée premiers crus. But then no higher in price.
The following wines were gathered by Tom Black for an event set up by L'Eté du Vin, a charity raising money for Cancer Research in Nashville, TN, in April 2009.
Grands-Echézeaux, Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, 2005
Fullish, youthful colour. Slightly sweaty on the nose. It doesn't sing. Medium-full body. Not unduly tannic. Good grip. But not as rich or as succulent as 2005s should be. A badly stored bottle? From 2015.
Grands-Echézeaux, Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, 2004
Good colour. Now a little maturity. Fresh, really quite ripe nose. Balanced and succulent. Good class and intensity. Medium-full body. Really fine for the vintage. Will still improve. From 2011.
Echézeaux, Domaine Dujac, 2003
Very good colour. Still immature. Ripe, exotic, fat, rich nose. Fullish body. Soft tannins. Very good grip for the vintage. A lush wine. Unexpected freshness. Long. Just about ready. Fine. Best enjoyed soon. Now-2012.
Grands-Echézeaux, Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, 2003
Very full, rich colour. Fat, ample, ripe but not over-ripe nose. Full body. Succulent. Unexpectedly classy for a 2003. Very good grip. Very fine for the vintage. From 2012.
Echézeaux, Domaine Dujac, 2002
Medium to medium-full colour. I would have expected somewhat more. Classy fruit on the nose if an absence of real concentration or indeed vigour. But balanced. They could have done better here. A missed opportunity. Just about ready. Now-2016.
Grands-Echézeaux, Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, 2002
Medium to medium-full colour. Not as full as I would have expected. Lovely nose, but less grip and intensity than other top 2002s. Medium to medium-full body. Balanced. Classy. But only very good for the vintage. Quite forward too. From 2011.
Echézeaux, Domaine Dujac, 2001
Good colour. Now mature. Bigger and more vigorous than the 2000. Firm nose, a litte sturdy. Fuller and richer than the 2000 but not as stylish. A little over-extracted it seemed at first, with the 2000 showing more charm. But this got better and better in the glass. Fine quality. Just about ready. Now-2014.
Grands-Echézeaux, Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, 2001
Lighter and more developed colour than the 2000, which is curious. Light nose. Somewhat too soft on the palate. A lack of grip, concentration and volume. Not short though. But the 2000 is much better. Drink soon.
Echézeaux, Domaine Dujac, 2000
Medium-full, mature colour. Ripe, spicy nose. No great depth, but clean and classy. Lacks a little vigour, but that is the vintage. Soft and a little weak, compared to the Engel, on the palate. But fresh and pleasant. Essentially a bit loose-knit and one-dimensional, though. Drink soonish.
Echézeaux, Domaine Engel, 2000
Medium to medium-full colour. Now mature. Aromatic, classy nose. A touch of mocha. Not a bit weak. Medium body. The tannins nowabsorbed. Good energy for a 2000. Good class too. Fine. Now-2015.
Grands-Echézeaux, Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, 2000
Good colour. Now some maturity. Ripe, quite rich nose. Nicely fat and composed. No lack of concentration and depth. Fresh too. Medium body. Balanced. Plenty of wine for a 2000. Long. Complex. Stylish. Fine plus for the vintage. Just about ready. Now-2015.
Echézeaux, Domaine Dujac, 1999
Fullish colour. Still very youthful. Ample, rich, spicy nose. Plenty of depth and concentration and lots of fruit. Slight ground coffee elements. Medium-full body. Fully à point, indeed soft. Round and most enjoyable. But the 1998 is fresher and more vigorous and better. Now-2016.
Echézeaux, Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, 1999
Full colour, barely mature. Nose still a little unformed. Fullish, energetic. Very lovely pure fresh fruit. Very classy. Long, complex and very lovely indeed. Very fine for an Echéeaux. Just about ready. Now-2020 plus.
Grands-Echézeaux, Maison Potel, 1999
Very good colour. Full and still youthful. Plump, accessible nose. No undue tannins, yet not a bit slight. Medium-full body. A slight lack of backbone but sweet and succulent and fully ready. Long. Very good indeed. Now-2015
Grands-Echézeaux, Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, 1999
Very fine, full, immature colour. Very lovely, rich, concentrated, very cassis nose. Even richer than the 1998. Fuller. More aromatic. More spicy. The tannins now soft. Classy. Vigorous. Complex. Very lovely follow through. Very fine for the vintage. Just about ready. Now-2030.
Echézeaux, Domaine Dujac, 1988
Medium-full colour. Just a little fresher-looking than the 1996. Richer and more vigorous on the nose, with a touch of mocha. Fresh. Profound. Fullish body. Very ripe. Lovely fruit. No austerity. Better than the 1996. Very long and harmonious. Fine plus. Now-2018 plus.
Echézeaux, Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, 1998
Full, barely mature colour. Firm, still a bit closed-in on the nose. But very classy and profound underneath. Fullish body. Ripe tannins, now absorbed. Lots of vigour and energy. Very long and lovely. Very fine. Only just about ready. Now-2020 plus.
Grands-Echézeaux, Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, 1998
Fine full, fresh colour. Fuller, fatter and richer than the 1996. More concentrated. Full, rich, ample. The tannins now absorbed. Very lovely fruit. Long. Complete. Complex and profound. Very fine, and superior to both 1995 and 1996. Now-2028.
Echézeaux, Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, 1997
Medium colour. Mature. Soft but fresh nose. Medium body. No great depth or complexity and a lack of real grip and vigour. Good length and class nevertheless. Fine for a 1997. Now-2014.
Grands-Echézeaux, Domaine René Engel, 1997
Good full, vigorous, but just-about-mature colour. Fresh nose for the vintage. Nice and plump and fruity. Not as enjoyable on the palate. Fullish body. Plenty of fruit. But a bit astringent. Yet very good indeed for the vintage. Better with food. Now-2013.
Echézeaux, Domaine Dujac, 1996
Medium-full colour. Still youthful. Ripe, very Dujac nose. Balanced, fragrant and just a little sweet. Medium-full body. Soft. Just a little loose-knit but plenty of fruit, depth and energy. Fine. A point. Now-2016.
Echézeaux, Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, 1996
Full colour. Just about ready. Cooler, firmer and classier than the Dujac. This is very fine. Medium-full body. Complete. Ripe. Harmonious. No undue acidity. Very long and lots of finesse. Rather more charm than the Grands-Echézeaux. Now-2020.
Grands-Echézeaux, Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, 1996
Full, very vigorous colour. Slightly austere on the nose. Good acidity. Medium full body. No undue tannins. Elegant. Slightly cool. It lacks a bit of fat and generosity. But it's certainly classy. Now-2018.
Echézeaux, Domaine René Engel, 1995
Full colour. Barely mature. Round, rich, plump nose. Good class and depth. Not a bit hard. Medium-full body. Very ripe. Lots of energy. Lots of depth. Very fine. Now-2020 plus.
Grands-Echézeaux, Domaine René Engel, 1995
Medium-full colour. Now some maturity. Soft, ripe, rich, stylish nose. Medium to medium-full body. Unexpectedly loose-knit and lacking grip. Somewhat short and one-dimensional. Yet the fruit is enjoyable. Very good. Drink soon. (After the above I wonder if this was a bad bottle).
Grands-Echézeaux, Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, 1995
Full, barely mature colour. Softer and more stemmy/spicy than the 1993. Ripe. Vigorous. Medium to medium-full body. Curiously not the greatest grip and energy. Ripe, fresh, elegant fruit nevertheless. But a lack of punch. Now-2015.
Grands-Echézeaux, Domaine René Engel, 1993
Full colour. Still very youthful indeed. Spendid nose. Rich, concentrated, full, intense, profound and classy. Full body. Concentrated, complete and very lovely. Real depth and dimension here. Very, very fine. Now-2030. My wine of the tasting.
Grands-Echézeaux, Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, 1993
Fullish, mature colour. Concentrated, rich, youthful nose. Plenty of depth. High quality. Fullish body. Very good grip. Slightly chunky. But very good fruit and lots of energy. Lovely finish. Will still develop. Fine. But the 1990 is better. Now-2020 plus.
Grands-Echézeaux, Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, 1991
Medium to medium-full volour. No undue age. Soft, complete, à point nose. Composed and stylish. Very harmonious. Medium body. Soft and round. Long and delicious. The 1990 is better, of course, but this is very delicious. Now-2015.
Grands-Echézeaux, Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, 1990
Full, youthful colour. Rich, full, aromatic, vigorous nose. Lots of depth and class here. Full body. Not a bit too roasted. Excellent grip. Very lovely fruit. Quite chunky, but no lack of elegance. For food. Fine. 2011-2020 plus.
Grands-Echézeaux, Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, 1989
Full, youthful colour. Lovely, rich, full, sweet, concentrated nose. Lots of depth. High quality. Fullish body. Good fruit. The 1985 is sweeter and more vigorous but this is fine. Now-2013.
Echézeaux, Domaine René Engel, 1988
Full, youthful-looking colour. Rich, nicely abundant nose. Not a bit austere. Fullish body. Just a little tannin. Ripe, balanced and classy. Will still improve. Fine. Now-2018.
Echézeaux, Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, 1988
Full, youthful-looking colour. Round, ripe, clean, pure and classy nose. Medium-full body. Not a bit too lean or austere. Indeed the follow through is quite sweet. Very harmonious. Long. Lovely. Fine plus. Now-2018.
Grands-Echézeaux, Domaine René Engel, 1988
Full colour. Still youthful. Somewhat reduced and artisanal on the nose. But better on the palate. Full body. Fully mature. Slightly chunky but good fruit if no real class. Better with food. Good plus. Drink soon.
Grands-Echézeaux, Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, 1988
Very full, vigorous, Mature colour. Lovely nose. Full, energetic, rich, concentrated and meaty. But on the palate rather more austere than the 1985 and the 1989 and a bit astringent. Best with food. Drink soon.
Grands-Echézeaux, Domaine Gros Frère et Soeur, 1985
Medium to medium-full colour. Fully mature. Not a lot on the nose. Ripe and fresh but a bit ungainly. Good follow through but an absence of velvet. Good plus. Now-2015.
Grands-Echézeaux, Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, 1985
Fullish, vigorous, mature colour. Good ripe, succulent nose: fresh, ample and stylish. A delicious, medium-full bodied fragrant mature wine. Elegant, long and complex. No hurry to drink. Fine quality. Now-2015.
Grands-Echezeaux, Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, 1983
Mature but not aged colour. The nose lacks freshness. It is funky but unstylish. Medium body. Loose at the end and a bit flat. Unexciting. Drink soon.
Grands-Echézeaux, Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, 1979
Light to medium colour. Fresher than the 1978. Light, faded nose. Loose-knit. Now getting hollow. Never than special. Drink up.
Grands-Echézeaux, Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, 1978
An old colour for a 1978. Old nose too. Now vegetal. Too old. I think this is due to bad storage. I've had better than this. There are hints here of something interesting.
Grands-Echézeaux, Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, 1976
Still quite a vigorous colour. Typically, slightly chunky 1976 nose. On the palate some sweetness but the structure is a little rigid. No undue astriungecy though. Yet it lacks suppleness. Better with food. Drink soon.
Grands-Echézeaux, Maison Leroy, 1966
Medium-full colour. No undue age. Soft, fragrant nose. Gentle and stylish. Medium weight. Losing its fruit on the palate. Attractive nonetheless. Good follow through still. Drink soon.
Grands-Echézeaux, Maison Leroy, 1964
Very good, vigorous colour. Full nose, but older than the 1959. Still fragrant, but beginning to loosen up. Medium weight. Drink soon.
Grands-Echézeaux, Domaine Engel, 1962
Medium-full colour. No undue age. Ripe nose. Good fruit. Nicely spicy on the palate. Balanced but not very concentrated, nor as stylish as the wine became in the 1990s. Good though. Drink soon.
Grands-Echézeaux, Maison Leroy, 1959
Good vigorous colour. Still rich and even sweet on the nose. Fullish. Aromatic. Ample and full of energy. Long and complex and classy. Good intensity. Fine quality. No hurry to drink.
Grands-Echézeaux, Maison Bouchard Père et Fils, 1955
Very well-matured colour. Now light. Quite an old nose. And similar on the palate. A bit past its best. Yet it was very good in its prime.
Grands-Echézeaux, Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, 1955
Well matured colour. Fragrant, old nose. Quite rich and ripe. No lack of elegance. On the palate still fruity but the acidity is beginning to dominate. Medium weight. Very good but drink soon.