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• The Vine

2006 BURGUNDY

Rating for the Vintage

Red 14.0 (Côte de Beaune)               White 17.0
    16.0 (Côte de Nuits)

Size of the Crop

                                  Red        White

Grands Crus                     13214 (hl)    3692

Village and Premiers Crus      175674        59556

Total                          188888        63248

Two thousand and six is a good but not great Burgundy vintage. If we look over the last decade we have better years in 1998, 1999, 2002 and 2005, but less successful outcomes in 2000, 2001, 2003, 2004 and 2007 (I exclude 2008 at this stage as these are for tasting from now onwards: more in six months time). The white 2006s are very good, especially in Chablis and the Côte Chalonnaise – they are somewhat more irregular in the Côte de Beaune but better than the reds - while overall the red 2006s are charming, fruity and soft centered, riper than the 2004s but without the depth, vigour and concentration of 2002, let alone the 2005s.

Winter 2005/2006 was cool rather than cold, but dry, and this was followed by a late spring. Thereafter the summer was largely unexceptional, average in May and June, very hot in July, but cold and miserable in August. September began as an improvement but then proved patchy. The skins were fragile after the August rains and the vintage was forced upon the growers before the fruit deteriorated. Some vintages favour the late pickers. Two thousand and six was not one of them.

There had been hail in the spring in Gevrey. This did not affect the quality. It merely reduced the crop. Later there was hail in Chambolle and in Volnay. Here I fear the quality has been compromised. Overall there was less precipitation in the Côte de Nuits than in the Côte de Beaune. So it is in Nuits Saint-Georges and Vosne-Romanée that we find the best wines. I was also impressed by the Cortons.

At the outset no one was very enthusiastic about the 2006 reds. They appeared a little inconsequential. But they seemed to improve after the malos had completed and after the Autumn 2007 rackings. Once they had settled down after bottling it was clear that this was a vintage with no lack of merit.

These 2006s are medium bodied, plump, fresh, fruity and pleasant. The very best are in addition ripe and stylish. Acidities are not aggressive; indeed some of the less-successful bottles already show signs of astringency because there is a lack of grip. They will evolve in the medium term. There are plenty of attractive bottles for the mid-2010s.

As usual the notes which follow come from several tasting sessions. The first was in March 2009 at the Domaines Familiaux/Masters of Wine tasting in London. The last was our annual Group tasting held in Beaune at the end of August. Additional notes come from my visit the the USA in April. The Domaine de la Romanée-Conti wines were sampled seperately in Vosne-Romanée.

THE STARS OF THE VINTAGE

My favourite red 2006s are as follows:

Two wines from the Côte de Beaune scored 18/20, both from Bouchard Père et Fils: Volnay, Caillerets and Le Corton.

One or two wines escaped us, which I am fairly confident would have found their way onto the above list. I immediately think of Anne Gros' Richebourg and Sylvain Cathiard's Romanée-Saint-Vivant. There are others.

WHITE WINES

Chablis, Les Clos, Domaine Joseph Drouhin

Very lovely nose: crisp, racy and youthful. Very fine fruit. Poised and profound. Still very youthful. From 2011.

Rully, Premier Cru, Domaine Eric de Suremain

A point. Clean and pure and fresh. Fine for what it is. There have been inprovements here, quite obviously. And from now on the Domaine Leflaive will be looking after the estate. Drink soon.

Savigny-Lès-Beaune, Les Vergelesses, Domaine Simon Bize

Ample, seductive, long and stylish. Very ripe underneath, yet good grip. Very good. From 2010.

Pernand-Vergelesses, Le Clos du Village, Domaine Rapet Père et Fils

Crisp, neat, medium-full body and very stylish. Lovely peachy fruit. From 2010.

Pernand-Vergelesses, Les Combottes, Domaine du Château de Chorey

Crisp, classy, racy and cool. Lovely style. Medium body. Ready.

Beaune, Clos des Mouches, Domaine Joseph Drouhin

Rich, full and backward: indeed still a bit closed. Surprisingly concentrated. Just a bit four-square perhaps, because it lacks high tones. Very good though. From 2011.

Meursault, Blagny, Domaine Thierry et Pascale Matrot

Very lovely. Pure, elegant, balanced and peachy. Very composed. Medium-full body. Lovely white flowery fruit. Very good plus. From 2012.

Meursault, Clos de la Barre, Domaine des Comtes Lafon

Full, quite firm, profound nose. Very good grip. Lovely fruit. Still youthful. On the palate softer. But still good volume. A touch of the exotic on the mid-palate. Good long finish. Very good plus. From 2011.

Meursault, Charmes, Domaine des Comtes Lafon

Two notes. Lovely pure, minerally-flowery nose. A wine of considerable enegy and potential. Fullish, concentrated, intense and vigorous. Very lovely fruit and excellent grip. Very long on the palate. This is is still very young. Really very fine. From 2014.

Meursault, Genévrières, Maison Olivier Leflaive Frères

Good substance, but not a lot in the way of depth and interest. Merely good. From 2010.

Meursault, Perrières, Domaine Ballot-Millot

Still quite closed, but full bodied, rich, backward and concentrated. Very lovely fruit. Mineral and intense. Lovely long finish. Fine. From 2012.

Meursault, Perrières, Domaine Bitouzet-Prieur

Splendid minerality. Very concentrated. Lovely fruit. Still very young but potentially very fine. Very intense and with great class. From 2012.

Meursault, Perrières, Domaine Albert Grivault

Lovely nose; more pronounced and individual that their Clos des Perrières. Quite full; balanced and stylish and very lovely. The oak is very discreet. Profound and very fine. From 2012.

Meursult, Clos des Perrières, Domaine Guy et Yvan Doufouleur

Ripe nose, broad-flavoured but nevertheless very Perrières. Fullish body. Ample, a litle richer than the above. Not quite the same élan but lovely all the same. Fine follow through. From 2011.

Puligny-Montrachet, Les Champs-Gain, Maison Olivier Leflaive Frères

Delicate and poised, with lovely ripe fruit. Balanced, long, but without a great deal of backbone. For quite early drinking. Very good plus. From 2010.

Puligny-Montrachet, Le Clavoillon, Domaine Leflaive

Quite rich, full and ample on the nose. Similar on the palate, though perhaps it lacks just a bit of concentration and grip. But very good fruit and long enough. From 2011.

Puligny-Montrachet; Les Perrières, Domaine Louis Carillon

Very concentrated. Lovely style. Mineral and racy. Very gently oaky. This is still very young. Very long and elegant on the palate. Fine. From 2012.

Chassagne-Montrachet, Les Blanchots Dessus, Domaine Darviot-Perrin

This is almost too exotic, and I don't think it will last well, but it is most enjoyable now. Medium-full body. Good depth of fruit. Very ripe. No lack of freshness. Would go well with Chinese food. Drink now to 2014

Chasagne-Montrachet, Les Macharelles, Maison Jean-Yves Devevey

Ripe, luscious and medium-full bodied, but very good depth and grip. Good fruit. Very good. From 2011.

Chassagne-Montrachet, Morgeot, Clos de la Chapelle, Domaine Magenta/Louis Jadot

Quite a closed-in nose. Fresh, full and firm. A little unyielding at present. A meaty wine, but with good grip and not four-square. Lacks a little nuance, but very good. From 2011.

Chassagne-Montachet, Les Vergers, Domaine Michel Niellon

A whiff of sulphur at first. Fullish, round, profound and spicy. Not the gratest class, but that is Vergers. Good grip. Very gently oaky. Really quite rich. Very good. From 2012.

Corton Blanc, Domaine Senard

Very individual fruit. Not Charlemagne but very lovely. A touch of oak. Original. Balanced. Medium-full body. Long fine plus. From 2013.

Corton-Charlemagne, Domaine Bonneau du Martray

Bottled April 2008. The first bottle was a little reduced and didn't show well; but I then sampled an example which had been opened the previous day. This was as it should be. Full bodied. Backward. Very concentrated and very classy. Very lovely steely, complex fruit. High class. From 2014.

Corton-Charlemagne, Maison Olivier Leflaive Frères

Clean and crisp, but lacks dimension. Medium-full body. Starts well but then it finishes with a absence of vigour. Only good in grand cru terms. From 2011.

Batard-Montrachet, Domaine Leflaive

Like a bigger, sturdier example of their Clavoillon. On the nose a little four-square. Better on the palate. Fresher, good grip, no lack of nuance. This is very fine. From 2013

Le Montrachet, Domaine de la Romanée-Conti

Rich, fat, oaky and quite exotic. Sumptuous and vanillary, yet very good grip. Underneath very minerally. Full bodied. Very ripe fruit. Honeyed and opulent and very classy. Very fine indeed. Lovely. From 2016.

RED WINES

COTE DE BEAUNE

Monthelie, Domaine Pierre Morey

Soft, light, balanced and fruity. Forward but lots of charm. From 2010. 14.0.

Château de Monthelie, Domaine Eric de Suremain

Some tannins, and these are a bit rustic. Good ripeness. Somewhat sauvage but also rather soupy fruit. Quite good. From 2013. 13.5.

Château de Monthelie, Sur La Velle, Domaine Eric de Suremain

A bit more depth and interest, but soupy nevertheless. From 2013. 13.5.

Pernand-Vergelesses, Ile de Vergelesses, Domaine Chandon de Briailles.

Lovely elegant nose. Medium weight. Stylish and intense and concentrated. Just a little tannin. Long. Very good indeed. From 2013. 17.0.

Savigny-Lès-Beaune, Les Marconnets, Domaine Simon Bize

Medium weight. Ripe, spicy, succulent and full of interest. Balanced and fresh. Lovely fruit. Very good indeed for what it is. From 2013. 16.5.

Aloxe-Corton, Clos du Chapitre, Domaine Follin-Arbelet

Medium colour. Quite a firm nose, if no grace. Medium body. Some fruit and decent acidity. But no real flair. From 2012. 14.0.

Aloxe-Corton, Les Fournières, Domaine Tollot-Beaut

Medium-full colour. Some fruit and depth on the nose. Even vigour. Medium body. Ripe and fresh and fruity and positive. A plump wine, and elegant for Aloxe-Corton. Very good. From 2013. 16.0.

Aloxe-Corton, Les Valozières, Domaine Senard

Medium colour. Weedy, stemmy nose. Slightly reduced on the palate. Dry and astringent. From 2010. 12.0.

Aloxe-Corton, Les Vercots, Domaine Follin-Arbelet

Medium-full colour. Quite rich fruit on the nose. Good substance and depth on the palate. Positive and fresh. Good. From 2013. 15.0.

Aloxe-Corton, Les Vercots, Domaine Tollot-Beaut

Medium to medium-full colour. Soft, quite oaky, weedy and tarty. Forward. From 2011. 13.0.

Beaune du Château, Premier Cru, Domaine Bouchard Père et Fils

Medium colour. Soft, ripe, forward nose. No great weight here. But fruity and balanced, with a positive finish. Quite good. From 2012. 14.0.

Beaune, Aigrots, Domaine Michel Lafarge

Medium colour. Soft, fruity, forward nose. Decent weight on the palate. There is even a little backbone. Decent grip too. Quite positive. Quite good. From 2012. 14.0.

Beaune, Bressandes, Domaine Chanson

Medium to medium-full colour. Plump. Decent grip and substance. Cool and stylish. Quite good. From 2012. 14.0.

Beaune, Bressandes, Domaine des Croix

Medium to medium-full colour. Decent Pinot fruit on the nose. Fruity attack but a little astringent at the end. OK at best. From 2012. 13.5.

Beaune, Champ Pimont. Domaine Chanson

Medium to medium-full colour. Forward nose. Medium weight. Some fruit but no real grip. A little astringent at the end. Not bad. From 2011. 13.0.

Beaune, Clos des Avaux, Domaine Newman

Medium to medium-full colour. Not a lot on the nose. Medium weight. Fresh and fruity. Slightly astringent at the end. But decent stuff. From 2012. 13.0.

Beaune, Clos des Fèves, Domaine Chanson

Medium colour. Lightweight nose. Pleasant and fruity. Decently fresh. Medium wight. Quite good. From 2012. 14.0.

Beaune, Clos de Marconnets, Domaine Chanson

Medium to medium-full colour. Pleasant fruit but a bit dilute on the nose. Ripe but not enough grip. Medium weight. Yet a decent finish. Not bad plus. From 2012. 13.5.

Beaune, Clos de la Mousse, Domaine Bouchard Père et Fils

Medium-full colour. Quite rich but a bit subdued on the nose. Light, forward, not entirely pure and a bit thin on the palate. Just about ready. From 2010. 11.5.

Beaune, Clos du Roi, Domaine Rapet Père et Fils

Good colour. Ripe but a little raw on the nose. But good fruit and medium to medium full weight on the palate. Lacks a little distinction, but that is the climat. Only a little tannin. Fresh. Good. From 2012. 14.5.

Beaune, Clos du Roi, Domaine Tollot-Beaut

Medium to medium-full colour. Plump, spicy nose. Decent attack, but then it loses its grip and finishes a bit astingent. Only fair. From 2012. 13.5.

Beaune, Clos des Ursules, Domaine Louis Jadot

Medium-full body. Rich fat nose. Lots of depth. Good definition and style. Lots of concentration. Still youthful. Good vigour. Lovely. Needs time. From 2015. 17.0.

Beaune, Couchereaux, Domaine Louis Jadot

Medium colour. Decent fruit but not much character on the nose. Rather dilute on the palate. One dimensional. Decent freshness so not bad. Forward. From 2011. 13.0.

Beaune, Cras, Domaine du Château de Chorey

Full, rich, abundant nose. Medium-full body. Balanced, concentrated and composed. Long and subtle. Very good plus. From 2014. 16.5.

Beaune, Epenottes, Domaine Jean-Marc Boillot

Good colour. Rich, plump nose. Good ripe fruit. Yet somewhat thin and weedy elements on the palate. Somewhat astringent. From 2011. 12.0.

Beaune, Grèves, Vigne de L'Enfant Jesus, Domaine Bouchard Père et Fils

Medium colour. Lightweight but plump and fruity. Decent weight on the palate. Positive finish. Good. From 2012. 15.0.

Beaune, Grèves, Domaine Chanson

Medium to medium-full colour. Round nose with a touch of spice. A bit light and astringent on the palate. Only fair. From 2011. 13.0

Beaune, Grèves, Domaine des Croix

Medium to medium-full colour. Fresh nose if a little light-weight. Decent fruit, but not a lot of weight on the palate. Pleasant. From 2011. 13.5.

Beaune, Grèves, Domaine de Montille

Medium colour; Fresh, fruity and forward on the nose. Rather too light and weedy on the palate. Thin finish. From 2010. 12.5.

Beaune, Grèves, Domaine Newman

Medium to medium-full colour. Decent persistence and intensity on the nose. Ripe. A touch of oak. Good grip. Medium to medium-full colour. Positive at the end, even long. Good plus. From 2012. 15.5.

Beaune, Grèves, Domaine Tollot-Beaut

Medium colour. Round, soft, plump, forward nose. A bit dilute on the palate. Finishes astringently. From 2011. 12.5.

Beaune, Pertuisots, Domaine des Croix

Medium to medium-full colour. Not much on the nose, but a pleasant, fruity, forward wine. Quite harmonious. Not bad. From 2011. 13.5.

Beaune, Pertuisots, Domaine Jean-Yves Devevey

Medium body. Good fruit underneath, but currently a little bit rigid on the attack. Otherwise the balance is correct. Good. From 2011. 14.5.

Beaune, Teurons, Domaine Bouchard Père et Fils

Medium to medium-full colour. Fresh, fruity but lightweight nose. But good fruity consistency on the plate. Good grip. Finishes well. Stylish. Good. From 2012. 15.0.

Beaune, Teurons, Domaine Chanson

Medium to medium-full colour. Ripe, stylish nose and attack. Medium body. Fresh and psotive. Forward; Quite good plus. From 2012. 14.5.

Pommard, Charmots, Domaine Gabriel Billard

Good substance and depth. Ripe tannins. Plenty of style. Medium to medium-full body. Good grip. This is elegant for a Pommard, and it has good energy and a long positive finish. Very good. From 2012. 16.0.

Pommard, Clos des Epeneaux, Domaine du Comte Armand

Medium-full colour. Some extraction on the nose. Firm but slightly bitter. A bit stewed at the end, though the attack is not bad. It lacks a bit of charm, but there is grip here. It will improve. Good. From 2014. 15.0.

Pommard, Fremiers, Domaine Louis Boillot

Medium colour. Fruity but a bit weak on the nose. Light, forward, a bit weedy and astringent on the palate. From 2011. 12.5.

Pommard, Grands Epenots, Domaine Michel Gaunoux

Slightly bland, vegetal nose. Fresher on the palate. Medium to medium-full body. Decent acidity. But overall only quite good. From 2013. 13.5.

Pommard, Jarollières, Domaine Jean-Marc Boillot

Medium-full colour. Rich and ripe on the nose, but slightly attenuated and astringent on the palate. Decent fruit but an ungainly finish. Not bad plus. From 2013. 13.5.

Pommard, Jarollières, Domaine de la Pousse d'Or

Medium-full colour. Aromatic, plump nose. Good freshness. Medium body. Attractive attack. There is good fruit here, if no great depth. Positive finish. Good plus. From 2014. 15.5.

Pommard, Pezerolles, Domaine Bouchard Père et Fils

Medium colour. Ripe, even a little sweet on the nose. Medium body. Decent fruit if no real depth. Neither short nor dry though. Quite good. From 2012. 14.0.

Pommard, Rugiens, Domaine Bouchard Père et Fils

Medium-full colour. Good substance, fruit and depth on the nose. Decent volume. Good grip. Plump, ripe and balanced. This even has class. Long and positive at the end. From 2014. 17.0.

Pommard, Rugiens, Domaine Michel Gaunoux

Slight attenuation on the nose. But not as vegetal as the Epenots. Richer, fatter and fresher. More style and beter balanced. Quite good. From 2013. 14.0.

Pommard, Rugiens, Domaine Louis Jadot

Medium colour. Feeble on the nose. Light, fruity, forward. Rather one-dimensional. Drink soon. From 2010. 13.0.

Pommard, Rugiens, Domaine de Montille

Medium colour. Weak and weedy on the nose. Some fruit on the attack but dry and attenuated on the follow-through. From 2011. 12.5.

Pommard, Rugiens, Domaine du Pavillon (Albert Bichot)

Medium-full colour. Round, ripe and fruity on the nose. Good depth here. Good grip. Positive and energetic Very good. From 2014. 16.0.

Volnay, Brouillard, Domaine Louis Boillot

Medium-full colour. Thin and weedy on the nose. And on the palate too. Decent fruit on the attack, but then it tails off. From 2012. 12.5.

Volnay, Caillerets, Domaine Henri Boillot

Medium-full colour. Some substance but a hint of attenuation on the nose. Medium body. Decent fruity attack. Even fresh. But it tails off. Good though. From 2012. 15.0.

Volnay, Caillerets, Domaine Bouchard Père et Fils

Medium colour. Fresh nose. Good style and depth. This is even a little closed. Here is a wine with potential. Fullish in 2006 terms. Concentrated, vigorous, classy and profound. Lovely finish. Fine plus. From 2015. 18.0.

Volnay Caillerets, Clos des 60 Ouvrées, Domaine de la Pousse d'Or

Medium-full colour. A little closed on the nose. But firm and rich and quite substantial. Fullish body. Rich. God grip. Some tannin. Plenty of vigour and dimension. This will keep well. I did not find it had quite the flair of the Bouchard example, which it followed, but certainly fine. From 2015. 17.5.

Volnay, Carelle Sous La Chapelle, Domaine Jean-Marc Boillot

Medium-full colour. Plump but a little weedy on the nose. Light and a bit too dry and thin on the palate. From 2011. 12.5.

Volnay; Champans, Domaine du Marquis d'Angerville

Medium to medium-full colour. Seems to have decent substance but very reduced. Difficult to taste. Judgment deferred.

Volnay, Champans, Domaine des Comtes Lafon

Medium-full colour. Ripe, fresh nose, if a little one-dimensional. Decent juicy fruit on the palate. But not enough grip and depth. Quite good. From 2013. 14.0.

Volnay, Chevret, Domaine Henri Boillot

Medium-full colour. Some substance on the nose, but a bit weedy at the same time. Medium body. Decent fruit on the attack. Bit a little attenuated, even astringent on the follow through. Only fair. From 2012. 13.5.

Volnat, Chevret, Domaine Louis Latour

Medium colour. Slightly cooked nose. But there is depth underneath. Rich, ripe and spicy. Not very Volnay, nor very elegant. But decent grip at first, though it got weedy later. Quite good plus. From 2012. 14.5.

Volnay, Clos de la Bousse d'Or, Domaine de la Pousse d'Or

Medium-full colour. Nicely plump, fruity nose. Medium to medium-full weight. Good fruit here, even concentration. Good grip, even some backbone. Lovely finish. This is very good plus. From 2013. 16.5.

Volnay, Clos du Château des Ducs, Domaine Michel Lafarge

Medium colour. Ripe, fresh, positive nose, if no great weight. Forward. Juicy and reasonably fresh on the palate. Finishes well. Above all, stylish. From 2012. 15.5.

Volnay Clos des Chênes, Domaine Bouchard Père et Fils

Medium to medium-full colour. Fresh, high-toned nose if without much backbone. On the palate silky-smooth. Medium to medium-full body. Ripe and stylish. Long and positive. Impressive follow-through. This is very elegant and very long; Fine. From 2013. 17.5.

Volnay, Clos des Chênes, Domaine Louis Jadot

Medium to medium-full colour. Ripe, plump and fruity, but an absence of real grip. Medium body. Fresh, fruity and pleasant at first, but then it tails off. Drink early. From 2011. 14.5.

Volnay, Clos des Chênes, Domaine Michel Lafarge

Lovely nose. Splendid concentrated fruit. Ripe and stylish and succulent. On the palate this has good structure and is a little bit in its shell. Best at the end. Long. Very good plus. From 2015. 16.5This was at the Domaines Familiaux tasting, (not blind). At the Group tasting the sample did not show as well, and was marked by others as well as me, lower than his Clos du Château des Ducs.

Volnay, Clos des Chênes, Domaine des Comtes Lafon

Medium to medium-full colour. Ripe, plump nose. Good depth here. No weakness. Positive, firm and elegant. Not a blockbuster but good substance for a 2006 Volnay. Fresh and stylish all the way through. Very good plus. From 2013. 16.5.

Volnay, Clos des Ducs, Domaine Marquis d'Angerville

Medium-full colour. Round, fruity nose. Good weight. Positive. Medium to medium-full body. Plump and ample. Not much tannin but good grip and depth. Lacks a little elegance. Finishes well though. From 2013. 15.0.

Volnay, Clos de la Rougeotte, Domaine Henri Boillot

Medium colour. Stylish, plump, silky nose. Good Pinot fruit. Medium body. Not a great deal of grip and personality on the palate. The wine finishes a bit weedy. But not bad. From 2012. 13.5.

Volnay, Fremiets, Domaine du Comte Armand

Medium-full colour. A little dry on the nose. Better on the palate. Decent length and some grip. Good follow through. This is more positive and energetic than most. Good plus. From 2013. 15.5.

Volnat, Mitans, Domaine Michel Lafarge

Medium-full colour. Light nose. Perhaps a bit empty, but quite fruity. A bit hard at the end, as well as astringent. From 2012. 12.0.

Volnay, Santenots du Milieu. Domaine des Comes Lafon

Good colour. Firm nose. More austere than Lafarge's Clos des Chênes. Still closed in. But good tannin, Lots of fruit and very good grip. Rich on the palate. Needs time. Fine. From 2015. 17.5.

COTE DE NUITS

Côte de Nuits Villages, La Robignotte, Domaine Gilles Jourdan

Soft, ripe, succulent. Seems to have a little less substance than the 2007, and the oak is a bit more noticable. Not as fine or as profound, but delicious everyday drinking from 2010. 14.0.

Nuits-Saint-Georges, Premier Cru, Domaine Michel Gros

Medium-full colour. Rich, full, quite firm but essentially juicy on the nose. Medium-full body. Some tannin. Rich. A little closed-in at present but good potential. Finishes well. Very good. From 2014. 16.0.

Nuits-Saint-Georges, Les Boudots, Domaine Jean Grivot

Medium-full body. Ripe and rich. Balalance, vigorous and stylish. Lovely fruit. Not the sheer brillaince of their Beaux Monts but fine. From 2015. 17.5.

Nuits-Saint-Georges, Les Boudots, Domaine Louis Jadot

Medium-full colour. Slightly flat on the nose. Medium body. A relatively simple wine. Reasonably fresh despite the nose. Decent fruit and a positive finish. But merely good. From 2014. 15.0.

Nuits-Saint-Georges, Les Boudots, Domaine Leroy

Fullish colour. Rich, ripe, very concentrated nose. Some stems here. Medium-full body. Ripe, intense, still youthful but long and vigorous. Very good indeed. From 2015. 17.0.

Nuits-Saint-Georges, Les Cailles, Domaine Bouchard Père et Fils

Medium-full colour. Rich, full and elegant on the nose. Concentrated, intense and harmonious. Stylish too. Fullish body. Very rich on the palate. Fine plus. From 2016. 18.0.

Nuits-Saint-Georges, Les Cailles, Domaine Robert Chevillon

Fullish colour. Muscular and slightly dense on the nose. On the palate more civilized. Fullish body, rich, very good grip. Plenty of ripe tannin. Vigorous, meaty, very typical. Very good plus. From 2016. 16.5.

Nuits-Saint-Georges, Les Chaignots, Domaine Robert Chevillon

Full colour. High-toned nose with a little more development than most. Medium-full body. Very ripe. Decent grip. Very good but not fine. From 2014. 16.0.

Nuits-Saint-Georges, Les Chaignots, Domaine Faiveley

Fullish colour. Fresh, ripe, quite delicate nose. Soft and balanced. An elegant wine. Intense but not aggressive. Long, satisfying rich fruit. Fine. From 2014. 17.5.

Nuits-Saint-Georges, Les Chaignots, Domaine Henri Gouges

Fullish colour. Ripe, open, but not a great deal of class on the nose. Medium-full body. Good grip. But a bit too sturdy for its own good. Good at best. From 2014. 15.0.

Nuits-Saint-Georges, Les Chaignots, Domaine Mugneret-Gibourg

Full colour. Lovely ample, elegant fruit on the nose. Medium-full body. Intense. Concentrated. Structured. Lovely rich, elegant finish. Fine plus. From 2015. 18.0.

Nuits-Saint-Georges, Clos des Argillières, Domaine Michèle et Patrice Rion

Medium-full colour. Firm, tannin, meaty nose. Some tannin to resolve. Fullish body. Good grip; Good richness here. Backward but very good potential. Long, complex and even classy. Very good indeed. From 2015. 17.0.

Nuits-Saint-Georges, Clos de l'Arlot, Domaine de l'Arlot

Medium-full colour. Soft, ripe nose. Evidence of the stems. Medium body. Full of fruit, but slightly loose-knit. Balanced. Good but not great. From 2014. 15.0.

Nuits-Saint-Georges, Clos des Corvées-Pagets, Domaine Robert Arnoux

Full colour. Rich, full and very concentrated on the nose. Backward and structured. A rich, full wine with very impressive fruit and depth. Long, complex and elegant. Fine quality. From 2016. 17.5.

Nuits-Saint-Georges, Clos des Forêts, Domaine de l'Arlot

Medium-full colour. Quite a rich, firm nose. Evidence of the stems. Medium-full body. Rich, fat, but quite tannic. This will resolve itself. Complex at the end. Very good indeed. From 2014. 17.0.

Nuits-Saint-Georges, Clos de la Maréchale, Domaine Frédéric Mugnier

Very good colour. Rich, fat, succulent, yet with an underlying Prémeaux backbone and touch of the rustic. Fullish body. Meaty. Stylish and balanced nonetheless. Long and very good indeed. From 2015. 17.0.

Nuits-Saiunt-Geoges, Clos des Perrières, Domaine Dufouleur Père et Fils

Medium-full colour. Rich, full, firm nose. Medium-full body. Some tannin. Good succulent fruit. Well balanced. Good plus. From 2014. 15.5.

Nuits-Saint-Georges, Clos des Porrets, Domaine Henri Gouges

Good colour. Fresh, rich nose. Good backbone. Good depth. Fullish body. Good tannins. Very good depth and grip. Needs time. Fine. From 2015. 17.5.

Nuits-Saint-Georges, Clos Saint-Marc, Domaine Michèle et Patrice Rion

Fullish colour. Lovely plump, ripe, black-fruit nose. Full, firm, and stylish on the palate. Medium-full body. Succulent, old-viney concentration and fat. Long. Lovely. From 2016. 18.0.

Nuits-Saint-Georges, Les Cras, Domaine Lamarche

Fullish colour. High-toned but fresh and classy on the nose. Mocha and oak as it developed. Medium-full body. Open. Accessible. Plump and attractive. Fresh and balanced and long at the end. Fine plus. From 2014. 18.0.

Nuits-Saint-Georges, Les Cras, Domaine du Vicomte Liger-Belair

Full colour. Spendidly concentrated nose. Very lovely fruit. This has impressive depth and style. Soft, round but intense on the palate. Medium-full body. Very pure fruit. Very classy. Very fine. From 2014. 18.5.

Nuits-Saint-Georges, Les Damodes, Domaine Bouchard Père et Fils

Medium-full colour. Ripe, abundant fruit on the nose. Medium to medium-full body. Good grip. Clean and stylish. Long. Fine. From 2014. 17.5.

Nuits-Saint-Georges, Les Damodes, Domaine Chauvenet

Fullish colour. Ripe nose. Quite closed. Good freshness. Very good fruit. Some oak. Medium-full body. Good grip. Elegant and succulent. Long on the palate. Fine plus. From 2015. 18.0.

Nuits-Saint-Georges, Les Damodes, Domaine Faiveley

Fullish colour. Medium-full body. Ample. Good fruit and balance. The sample was corked, but one could see a serious wine. From 2014. 16.0 (plus or minus).

Nuits-Saint-Georges, Les Murgers, Domaine Hudelot-Noëllat

Medium-full colour. Rich, fat, ample, succulent nose. Almost sweet. Medium-full body. Rich. Good tannins. Very good acidity. Long and vigorous and most enticing. Fine. From 2014. 17.5.

Nuits-Saint-Georges, Les Perrières, Domaine Chauvenet

Full colout. Firm, full, fresh and fine on the nose. Backward. Full body. Oaky. Very rich and concentrated. Excellent vigour and grip. No lack of tannins but these tnnins are nice and ripe. Lovely. From 2015. 18.0.

Nuits-Saint-Georges, Les Porrets, Bouchard Père et Fils

Fullish colour. Soft, round, ripe nose, with a touch of toffee. Medium-full body. Ripe and succulent. Balanced. Rich. Good follow-through. Very good. From 2014. 16.0.

Nuits-Saint-Georges, Les Porrets, Domaine Chanson

Fullish colour. A little weak on the nose but better on the palate. Medium body. Quite fresh and vigorous. But not very classy. Quite good. From 2013. 14.0.

Nuits-Saint-Georges, Les Porrets, Domaine Faiveley

Fullish colour. Fullish on the nose. Good concentration and depth. Good class too. Medium-full body. Balanced. Good grip. The typical middle Nuits burliness. But long and satisfying. Very good. From 2015. 16.0.

Nuits-Saint-Georges, Les Poulettes, Domaine Guy et Yvan Doufouleur

Medium-full colour. Rich, ample if slightly reduced nose. Fullish body, fat, and with good tannins on the palate. Quite backward. Good vigour and energy. Long. Very good plus. From 2014. 16.5.

Nuits-Saint-Georges, Les Pruliers, Domaine Robert Chevillon

Good colour. Fullish, quite backward nose; Medium-full body. Some tannin. Elegant and intense and full of fruit. Cool, long and complex. Very good indeed. From 2014. 17.0.

Nuits-Siant-Georges, Les Pruliers, Domaine Henri Gouges

A little less firm than the Porrets; but slightly richer, more succulent and more exotic. Abundant, rich and very well-balanced. Very lovely. Will be a seductive wine. From 2014. 16.5.

Nuits-Saint-Georges, Les Pruliers, Domaine Jean Grivot

Fullish colour. Plump and balanced and quite forward on the nose. Not a blockbuster. Medium-full body. Fresh. Elegant. Very good. From 2014. 16.0.

Nuits-Saint-Georges, Les Pruliers, Domaine Taupenot-Merme

Fullish colour. Round, ripe nose. Medium weight. Plenty of fruit but a little diffuse. Quite good. From 2013. 14.0.

Nuits-Saint-Georges, Les Roncières, Domaine Jean Grivot

Medium-full colour. A little thin on the nose. Ripe, medium bodied, and hIgh-toned on the palate. Decent acidity. But I don't find it very stylish. Quite good at best. From 2013. 14.0.

Nuits-Saint-Georges, La Rue de Chaux, Domaine Chauvenet

Medium-full colour. Ripe but slightly dry on the nose. Medium to medium-full body. Quite fresh and elegant but a hint of astringency. Good at best. From 2013. 15.0.

Nuits-Saint-Georges, Les Saint-Georges, Domaine Robert Chevillon

Full colour. Firm; full, rich, tannic and backward on the nose. Fullish body. Cool and composed. A big wine in every way. But everything in place. Very lovely rich fruit and splendid balance. Very fine. From 2016. 18.5.

Nuits-Saint-Georges, Les Saint-Georges, Domaine Henri Gouges

Very full colour. Fresh nose. High-toned and rather closed. Fullish, ample and rich. Good attack but rather adolescent. Needs time. It didn't show well at the Group tasting, the only time I have sampled this recently. Judgement deferred.

Nuits-Saint-Georges, Les Saint-Georges, Domaine Thibault Liger-Belair

A soft, supple wine, which is out of place in Les Saint-Georges. Medium weight. Balanced, stylish and succulent. Good depth and vigour. Long on the palate. Very good plus. From 2014. 16.5.

Nuits-Saint-Georges, Les Vaucrains, Domaine Chauvenet

Fullsh colour. Attreactive fruit on the nose. Not too tannic or aggressive. Medium-full body. Nicely balanced plummy fruit supported by ripe tannins and very good grip. Stylish. Still youthful. Fine. From 2016. 17.5.

Nuits-Saint-Georges, Les Vaucrains, Maison Camille Giroud

Medium-full colour. Rich, spicy, aromatic, quite fat nose. Medium-full body. More forward than the rest of these top middle Nuits wines. Ripe but a little sweet. Decent balance and follow-through. Easy to enjoy. Very good. From 2014. 16.0.

Nuits-Saint-Georges, Les Vaucrains, Domaine Henri Gouges

A corked bottle but full, ample and generous, with plenty of tannin and backbone. Needs time.

Nuits-Saint-Georges, Les Vignerondes, Domaine Faiveley

Medium-full colour. Quite closed-in on the nose, but good grip. On the palate a little hard and astringent. Decent attack but then it tails off. Good at best. From 2013. 15.0.

Vosne-Romanée, Domaine Richard Manière-Noirot

Medium colour. A hint of mint on the nose. Medum body. Fruity, elegant and balanced, but a lack of depth on the middle palate. More to it at the end. Good. From 2012. 15.0.

Vosne-Romanée, Vieilles Vignes, Domaine Cécile Tremblay

A lovely example. Medium-full body. Very stylish, harmonious, ample fruit. Long and elegant. From 2012. 16.0.

Vosne-Romanée, Premier Cru, Cuvée Duvault-Blochet, Domaine de la Romanée-Conti

Not just young vines, as I have mistakenly said in The Wines of Burgundy, as much as the results of a second, later passage through the vines. Medium weight. The attack is soft, but there is a lot more to this on the follow through. Very stylish, quite concentrated fruit. A little tannin. But good grip and depth. Very good. From 2013.

Vosne-Romanée, Les Beaux Monts, Domaine Jean Grivot

Good colour. Very lovely nose. Rich, full and concentrated. Lots of elegance and definition. Vigorous and intense. Very good grip. Excellent. From 2016. 18.5. Less good at the Group tasting.

Vosne-Romanée, Les Beaux Monts, Domaine Hudelot-Noëllat

Fullish colour. Round, ample, succulent nose. Medium-full body. Some tannin. Lovely fruit. Ripe and vigorous. This has a lot of style and is harmonious and promising. Lovely finish. Fine. From 2015. 17.5.

Vosne-Romanée, Les Brulées, Domaine Eugenie

Domaine Engel as was. Medium-full colour. Rich and concentrated. Fat and energetic on the nose. Firm, rich and full bodied on the palate. Tannic, chocolaty, and with black cherry flavoured fruit. Complex and impressive. Needs time. Fine. From 2016. 17.5.

Vosne-Romanée, Les Brulées, Domaine Jean Grivot

Medium-full colour. Ample, ripe, fresh nose. Medium-full colour. Still a little closed-in. Plump, attractive and harmonious. Long finish. This will develop. Very good plus at least. From 2015. 16.5.

Vosne-Romanée, Les Brulées, Domaine Michel Gros

Fullish colour. Plenty of wine here. But it needs time. Fullish body. Lovely intense, ripe, concentrated fruit. Lots of energy. This is fine. From 2015. 17.5.

Vosne-Romanée, Les Brulées, Domaine Gérard Mugneret

Medium-full body. Ample, ripe, Medium-full bodied wine with no lack of rich fruit. But corked.

Vosne-Romanée, Les Chaumes, Domaine Robert Arnoux

Fullish colour. Ample, fruity npse but no real backbone. More to it on the palate. Medium to medium-full body. Good grip. There is some energy here. And the fruit is stylish and quite long. From 2013. 16.5.

Vosne-Romanée, Les Chaumes, Domaine Lamarche

Medium-full colour. Soft nose. No great weight. But elegant. Medium body. Crisp and full of fruit. Good balance if no great grip or concentration. Quite forward. Classy though. Very good plus. From 2013. 16.5.

Vosne-Romanée, Les Chaumes, Domaine Méo-Camuzet

Full colour. A little reduced and rustic on the nose. Medium-full body. Some tannin. Decent fruit but a little four-square. Good grip. Develpoed in the glass. But no better than good. From 2013. 15.0.

Vosne-Romanée, Clos de Réas, Domaine Michel Gros

A bad bottle at the Group tasting. In April round, concentrated, graceful and splendidly intense and balanced, without being a blockbuster. From 2013. 17.5.

Vosne-Romanée, La Croix Rameau, Domaine Lamarche

Medium-full colour. Stylish, ripe, gently oaky nose; with a touch of mocha as it developed. Good vigour. Not the greatest depth but elegant and balanced. Quite forward. From 2013. 16.0.

Vosne-Romanée, Cros Parantoux, Domaine Méo-Camuzet

Fullish colour. Fullish, very new oaky nose. But rich underneath. Medium-full weight. Fat, fruity and oaky on the palate. Good follow-through. Fresh and complex. Very good plus. From 2014. 16.5.

Vosne-Romanée, Cros Parantoux, Domaine Rouget

Medium-full colour. Quite fresh on the nose but no real depth. Medium-full body. Soft. Supple, ripe, fruity bit quite forward. A pleasant wine for quite early drinking. From 2012. 15.0.

Vosne-Romanée, Aux Malconsorts, Domaine du Clos Frantin (Albert Bichot)

Full colour. Firm and full with beautiful fruit and harmony on the nose. Ample, ripe, soft, silky and medium-full bodied on the palate. Good acidity. Long. Fine plus. From 2016. 18.0.

Vosne-Romanée, Aux Malconsorts, Domaine Cathiard

Medium-full colour. Rich, full, ample, vigorous and energetic on the nose. Lovely style here. Medium-full body. Ripe, generous, fresh and harmonious on the palate. Long and very lovely. Lots of class. The best of the Vosne-Romanée premiers crus. From 2015. 19.0.

Vosne-Romanée, Aux Malconsorts, Domaine Dujac

This is very lovely. Rich, concentrated and old-viney. Fat and profound. Fullish body. Lovely long finish. Real class. A classic. Very fine. From 2016. 18.5.

Vosne-Romanée, Aux Malconsorts, Domaine Lamarche

Medium-full colour. Full, firm, cool, balanced and virorous on the nose. Fullish body. Very high quality. Very intense. Super concentrated. Full body and excellent balance. Very fine. From 2016. 18.5.

Vosne-Romanée, Aux Malconsorts, Domaine de Montille

Fullish colour. Closed-in nose. Some tannin. Just a little ungainly at present, but this will sort itself out. Fullish body. Round, ripe, plenty of fruit. Not quite the class of the best but long on the palate and very good plus. From 20015. 16.5.

Vosne-Romanée, Les Petits Monts, Domaine Véronique Drouhin

Medium to medium-full colour. Ripe, mocha-ish nose. Medium body. No great weight here but some very elegant, balanced, quite intense fruit. Long on the palate. Perhaps a little too forward. From 2012. 16.0.

Vosne-Romanée, Les Petits Monts, Domaine Thibaut Liger-Belair

Medium-full colour. Fine, rich, concentrated nose. Good substance. Some tannin. Rich, meaty and vigorous on the palate. Nicely cool but very good black fruit character. Long. Fine plus. From 2015. 18.0.

Vosne-Romanée, En Orveaux, Domaine Sylvain Cathiard

Fullish colour. A little closed-in on the nose, but good ripe fruit and plenty of complexity in a high-toned sort of way. Ripe and sweet and vigorous on the palate. Medium-full body. Ample and succulent. Fine. From 2015. 17.5.

Vosne-Romanée, Les Reignots, Domaine Sylvain Cathiard

Full colour. Rich, ripe nose. Still youthful. Full body, Firm, intense and high class. Good tannins. An understated wine with a lot of depth. Very fine. From 2016. 18.5.

Vosne-Romanée, Les Reignots, Domaine Jean Grivot

Medium-full colour. A little more diffuse than Cathiard's example. Medium-full body. Soft. Quite fresh. Finishes positively. But good rather than fine. From 2014. 15.0.

Vosne-Romanée, Les Reignots, Domaine Du Vicomte Liger-Belair

Fullish colour. Fullish, ample but lacking just a little elegance on the nose. Quite vigorous though. Decent ripe fruit. Medium-full body. Good grip. Very good if not great. From 2014. 16.0.

Vosne-Romanée, Les Rouges, Domaine Jean Grivot

Medium colour. Fresh nose. Vigorous and ripe and elegant if by no means a blockbuster. Medium body. Fresh. Ample. Fruity. And with decent acidity. Perhaps a slight lack of definition. Good plus. From 2013. 15.5.

Vosne-Romanée, Les Suchots, Domaine de l'Arlot

Medium-full colour. An open, ginger-bready nose, with evidence of the stems. A little sweet on the palate. Medium-full body. Fresh but not a lot of dimension. Merely good. From 2014. 15.0.

Vosne-Romanée, Les Suchots, Domaine Robert Arnoux

Fullish colour. Firm nose, but not without sex-appeal. Rich, sweet, fullish bodied and vigorous on the palate. Very good class and balance. Fresh and profound on the finish. Fine plus. From 2016. 18.0.

Vosbe-Romanée, Les Suchots, Domaine Bouchard Père et Fils

Fullish colour. The nose is a bit hidden. But plenty of wine on the palate. Full bodied, rich, tannic and meaty. Good depth and vigour. Long and satisfying. Fine plus. From 2016. 18.0.

Vosne-Romanée, Les Suchots, Domaine Jean Grivot

Medium-full colour. A slight touch of reduction on the nose at first. Ripe and fruity, succulent and exotic nevertheless. No lack of energy or richness. Medium-full body. All a bit mixed up at present but fine once it sorts itself out. From 2015. 17.5.

Vosne-Romanée, Les Suchots, Domaine Hudelot-Noëllat

Fullish colour. Firm, oaky, but cool nose. Lots of depth. Lovely smooth; fresh, vigorous fruit. Medium-full body. Lots of dimension and class and a splendid finish. Very fine. From 2015. 18.5.

Vosne-Romanée, Les Suchots, Domaine Louis Jadot

Fullish colour. Rich, ripe, meaty nose. Not a bit aggressive. Round, ripe, fruity, sweet and rich on the palate, with a touch of new oak. Fullish body. Quite perfumed. From 2015. 16.5.

Vosne-Romanée, Les Suchots, Domaine Lamarche

Medium-full colour. Soft nose. Elegant and ripe but no great backbone. Fullish body. Energetic, rich and ripe. Good grip. Lots of dimension and vigour. Quite oaky. Fine. From 2016. 17.5.

Vosne-Romanée, Les Suchots, Domaine du Vicomte Liger-Belair

Fullish colour. Fullish, ample nose. A lush, medium-full bodied wine with no hard edges. Soft and harmonious. Will develop sooner than some. Very good indeed. From 2013. 17.0.

Vosne-Romanée, Les Suchots, Domaine Jean-Marc Millot

Fullish colour. A little diffuse on the nose. Medium-full body. Ample soft fruit, if no great grip or depth underneath. But a pleasant wine for quite early drinking. From 2013. 15.5.

Vosne-Romanée, Les Suchots, Domaine Gérard Mugneret

Fullish colour. Ample, rich, open nose. On the palate medium-full body. Ripe and soft and succulent. Lovely fruit and style. Very good indeed. From 2015. 17.0.

Vougeot, Les Petits Vougeots, Domaine Hudelot-Noëllat

Medium to medium-full colour. Fresh, medium weight nose. Decent fruit. Medium-full body. Stylish, balanced and rich. Good depth. Finishes well. An attractive wine. From 2015. 17.0.

Chambolle-Musigny, Vieilles Vignes, Domaine Digioia-Royer

Very good colour. At present a bit hidden on the nose. Full bodied, rich, ample and even concentrated underneath. Plenty of energy. Good tannins and lovely fruit. Good plus. From 2014. 15.5.

Chambolle-Musigny, Les Amoureuses, Domaine Francois Bertheau

Fullish colour. Soft, forward, understated, subtle but most attractive nose. Some oak on the palate. Medium-full body. Intense and classy. Ripe. Very long. Fine plus. From 2015. 18.0.

Chambolle-Musigny, Les Amoureuses, Domaine Joseph Drouhin

Medium-full colour. The nose is a bit closed-in at present. Gentle and classy on the palate. Medium to medium-full body. It lacks grip and intensity. It is merely pretty. Quite good plus. From 2013. 14.5.

Chambolle-Musigny, Les Amoureuses, Domaine J.F. Mugnier

Fullish colour. Understated but very classy on the nose. Very beautiful. Medium-full body. Very harmonious and lots of finesse. Splendid fruit. Totally captivating. From 2015. 19.0.

Chambolle-Musigny, Les Amoureuses, Domaine Georges Roumier

Fullish colour. Quite high-toned on the nose. Quite full bodied. Ripe and very fresh. Some tannin. Lots of vigour and energy. Lots of depth. Very youthful still. Needs time. Fine. From 2015. 17.5.

Chambolle-Musigny, Les Amoureuses, Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé

Fullish colour. Oaky and really quite jammy fruit on the nose. Larger than life. Fullish. Some tannin. Very oaky on the palate too. Plenty of ripe fruit. But is it all a bit too obvious? From 2016. 16.0.

Chambolle-Musigny, Les Baudes, Domaine Ghislaine Barthod

Good colour. Ripe, soft nose. Medium-full body. Gently oaky. Succulent and nicely concentrated. Ripe tannins. Good structure and grip. Tails off just a little at the end. Very good. From 2014. 16.0.

Chambolle-Musigny, Les Baudes, Domaine Christain Serafin

Medium-full colour. Quite oaky on the nose. But high-toned and with ripe fruit. Medium to medium-full body. Abundant fruit. Just a little dry at the end. Good. From 2014. 15.0.

Chambolle-Musigny, Les Charmes, Domaine Ghislaine Barthod

Medium-full colour. Still a little hard and closed on the nose. Fullish body, firm., rich, profound and with very good grip. This has a lot of depth. Lovely rich finish. Fine. From 2015. 17.5.

Chambolle-Musigny, Les Charmes, Domaine Francois Bertheau

Medium-full colour. Nicely spicy, round, meaty nose. Good substance. Medium-full body. Good depth and grip. Lovely finish. Very good indeed. From 2015. 17.0.

Chambolle-Musigny, Les Charmes, Domaine Hudelot-Noëllat

Medium-full colour. Fat, quite rich nose. Fullish body. Firm, rich and oaky on the palate. An abundant medium-full bodied wine. Lots of fruit and no lack of class. Fine from 2015. 17.5.

Chambolle-Musigny, Les Charmes, Domaine Ponsot

One can see a wine which is medium bodied rather than substantial. But it's corked. To be seen again.

Chambolle-Musignu, Les Charmes. Domaine Michèle et Patrice Rion

Medium-full colour. Soft, charming, fruity nose. Good style. A gentle very typical Chambolle. Round, ripe, sweet. Medium to medium-full body. Good grip. Quite accessible already. Very good. From 2013. 16.0.

Chambolle-Musigny, Les Chatelots, Domaine Ghislaine Barthod

Medium-full colour. Lightish, high-toned nose. Medium body. A touch dry at the end and not enough fat and backbone in the middle. Yet stylish and positive nonetheless. Good. From 2013. 15.0.

Chambolle-Musigny, La Combe d'Orvaux, Domaine Taupenot-Merme

Medium-full colour. A little bland on the nose. Medium body. Quite a forward example. But with decent fruit and style. But only quite good. From 2012. 14.0.

Chambolle-Musigny, Les Cras, Domaine Georges Roumier

Medium colour. Ripe, fresh, stylish nose. Attractive fruit here. Fullish body. Good backbone. Lots of depth and quality. Lovely fruit. Delicious. From 2014. 18.0.

Chambolle-Musigny, Les Feusselottes, Domaine Mugneret-Gibourg

Medium-full colour. Rich, ripe, quite opulent nose. Lovely lush fruit and very good grip. Medium-full body. Good ripe tannins. A concentrated, succulent example. Fine. From 2015. 17.5.

Chambolle-Musigny, Les Feusselottes, Domaine Cécile Tremblay

Medium-full colour. Quite substantial on the nose. If a slight absence of class. Medium to medium-full body. Decent fruit. Quite good. From 2013. 14.0.

Chambolle-Musigny, Les Fuées, Domaine Louis Jadot

Medium to medium-full colour. Not the greatest depth or dimension, but what there is is attractive. Soft, consistent, gently oaky. Medium to medium-full body. Fresh and balanced. Long and positive. Very good plus: from 2014. 16.5.

Chambolle-Musigny, Les Fuées, Domaine J.F. Mugnier

Fullish colour. Good structure on the nose. Lovely fresh fruit. Started off well on the palate. Medium-full body. But it tailed off in the glass. So I marked it down to quite good only. From 2014. 14.0. A bad bottle?

Chambolle-Musigny, Les Fuées, Domaine Ghislaine Barthod

Very good colour. Lovely nose. Lots of vigour. Classy balanced fruit. Fullish body. Good tannins. Rather more grip and concentraion than the Baudes. Vigorous, classy, long and fine. From 2015. 17.5.

Chambolle-Musigny, Les Groseilles, Domaine Digioia-Royer

Medium colour. Soft, charming, Chambolle nose with a touch of new wood. Medium to medium-full body. Succulent and balanced. Long and positive. Good style too. Long finish. Very good. From 2014. 16.0.

Chambolle-Musigny, Les Gruenchers, Domaine Digioia-Royer

Medium-full colour. Good depth and plenty of clean fruit on the nose. Fullish. Quite firm. But good ripe tannins and plenty of fruit on the palate. This is long and positive and will keep better than most. From 2015. 16.5.

Chambolle-Musigny, Les Gruenchers, Domaine Fourrier

Medium to medium-full colour. Elegant nose; Lovely Chambolle fruit. Balanced and positively silky. Medium to medium-full body. Ripe and Soft. Good grip. Quite forward but stylish and harmonious. Good long finish. From 2014. 16.0.

Chambolle-Musigny, Les Sentiers, Domaine Arlaud

Medium-full colour. Good slightly austere nose. Medium to medium-full body. Good grip. Ripe tannins and plenty of fruit. Long and stylish if not very profound. But very good. From 2012. 16.0.

Morey-Saint-Denis, Premier Cru, Domaine Dujac

Medium colour. Quite a firm nose. Backward but good style and grip. Medium-full body. Fresh, ripe, no lack of depth. Some tannin. Good positive follow-through. Very good. From 2014. 16.0.

Morey-Saint-Denis, Les Chaffots, Domaine Hubert Lignier

Medium-full colour. Good depth on the nose, plus a touch of new wood. Medium-full body. Fresh. Balanced. Good dimension. Ripe tannins. Finishes well. Youthful but very good. From 2015. 16.0.

Morey-Saint-Denis, Clos de la Bussière, Domaine Georges Roumier

Good colour. Fullish body, rich and fat with good acidity. Ripe. Still slightly austere. But good tannins and vigorous at the end. Very good. From 2015. 16.0.

Morey-Saint-Denis, La Forge, Domaine du Clos de Tart

This is the second wine. Medium-full colour. A bit austere on the nose. Medium-full body. Good fruit and balance but a bit ungainly at present. Quite good plus. From 2014. 14.5.

Morey-Saint-Denis, Les Millandes, Domaine Arlaud

Medium-full colour. Rich nose, with a touch of new oak. Good class and depth on the palate. Medium-full body. Ample, balanced and stylish. Good grip and good follow-through. From 2014. 16.0.

Morey-Saint-Denis, Les Millandes, Domaine Christian Serafin

Fullish colour. Some now oak but rather too much volatile acidity. To be seen again.

Morey-Saint-Denis, La Riotte, Domaine Taupenot-Merme

Medium-full colour. Some oak but a little bland on the nose. Medium to medium-full body. Finishes a bit astringent. Lacks style. Only fair. From 2012. 13.5.

Morey-Saint-Denis, Les Ruchots, Domaine Arlaud

Medium-full colour. Good nose, ripe and substantial. Medium to medium-full body. Plump, attractive, fresh and positive. Will evolve reasonably soon. Good. From 2012. 15.0.

Gevrey-Chambertin, Bel-Air, Domaine Taupenot-Merme

Medium colour. Light, forward, oaky nose. Has charm if not much depth. Decently positive on the palate. Plump, fresh, medium bodied. Good fruit. An attractive wine. Good plus. From 2013. 15.5.

Gevrey-Chambertin, Les Cazetiers, Domaine Bouchard Père et Fils

Fullish colour. Rich, gently oaky, mocha-flavoured nose. Fullish body. Ample, succulent fruit. Very good grip and lots of dimension. Classy, long and harmonious. Fine plus. From 2016. 18.0.

Gevrey-Chambertin, Les Cazetiers, Domaine Bruno Clair

Fullish nose. Nicely backward and a little austere. Very good fruit and excellent grip. Medium-full body. Balanced, poised, complex and elegant. Lovely. Fine. From 2015. 17.5.

Gevrey-Chambertin, Les Cazetiers, Domaine Faiveley

Slighly rigid on the nose. Fullish, good tannins, good grip. Ripe, quite firm. Good depth.Very good.. From 2015. 16.0.

Gevrey-Chambertin, Les Cazetiers, Maison Louis Latour

Medium to medium-full colour. Fresh. Good backbone. Classy fruit of the nose. Medium-full body. Ripe and round and full of energy. Good grip. Long and satisfactory. Very good plus. From 2015. 16.5.

Gevrey-Chambertin, Les Cazetiers, Domaine Armand Rousseau

Medium-full weight. Plump, classy nose. A little closed-in. But splendidly balanced and fresh. Complex, long, and lovely. From 2015. 17.0.

Gevrey-Chambertin, Les Cazetiers, Domaine Christain Serafin

Medium-full colour. Ripe, rich, classy nose. Medium-full body. Good vigour and grip. Very good tannins. This has a lot of depth and classy fruit and a lovely long finish. Fine. From 2016. 17.5.

Gevrey-Chambertin, Les Champeaux, Domaine Fourrier

Fullish colour. Fresh nose. Good depth and backbone. A keeper, it seems, in 2006 terms. As it evoved it did not quite live up to its early promise and I marked it down, but over all it scored as well as his Goulots and Cherbaudes. From 2013. 14.0.

Gevrey-Chambertin, Les Champeaux, Domaine Maume

Medium to medium-full colour. Lightish, forward and unconcentrated. Rather sweet fruit. Despite a decent finish only fair at best. From 2011. 13.0.

Gevrey-Chambertin, Les Champeaux, Domaine Mortet

Full colour. Somewhat dense on the nose at first. But better on the palate. Quite full body. But ripe tannins and good grip. Not astringent as I feared from the nose. Plenty of energy. Very good. From 2015. 16.0.

Gevrey-Chambertin, Les Cherbaudes, Domaine Louis Boillot

Medium-full colour. Good soft fruit on the nose. Medium to medium-full body. Fresh and charming. Nice and ripe. Positive follow-through. Very good. From 2014. 16.0.

Gevrey-Chambertin, Les Cherbaudes, Domaine Fourrier

Medium-full colour. Quite rich on the nose, with a touch of oxidation at first, but this blew off. Medium-full body. Good grip. Plenty of juicy fruit. Haemonious. Positive. Even classy. Very good. From 2014. 16.0.

Gevrey-Chambertin, Les Cherbaudes, Domaine Rossignol-Trapet

Medium-full colour. The nose is a little slight. Medium to medium-full body. Herbal flavours. A lack of real richness and grip. Forward. Quite good. From 2012. 14.0.

Gevrey-Chambertin, Clos Saint-Jacques, Domaine Bruno Clair

Medium-full colour. Lovely nose. Rich, slightly spicy, fat and vigorous. Fullish body. Lots of energy and complexity. Lots of depth and dimension. Very fine grip. Very classy indeed. Impressive. From 2016. 18.5

Gevrey-Chambertin, Clos Saint-Jacques, Domaine Sylvie Esmonin

Medium-full colour. Classy fruit on the nose, in a slightly lean sort of way. Medium-full body. Very poised ripe fruit. Good grip. Good richness underneath. Backward. Fine. From 2015. 17.5.

Gevrey-Chambertin, Clos Saint-Jacques, Domaine Fourrier

Medium-full colour. A slim, but elegant wine, better on the palate than on the nose. Medium-full body. Good tannins. Understated. Balanced and classy. Not as exotic as Rousseau or as elegant as Clair. But very good indeed. From 2015. 17.0

Gevrey-Chambertin, Clos Saint-Jacques, Domaine Armand Rousseau

Compared with their Cazetiers this is richer, riper, more profound and more succulent. Very impressive on the nose. Quite splendid on the palate. Full and the most backward of all these Clos Saint-Jacques. Great intensity and complexity. Lots of energy and real finesse. Very fine. From 2016. 18.5.

Gevret-Chambertin, La Combe Aux Moines, Domaine Faiveley

Medium to medium-full colour. Fresh and fruity on the nose if without the greatest personality – or indeed in the case of this bottle, cleanliness. Medium to medium-full body. To be seen again.

Gevrey-Chambertin, Les Combottes, Domaine Dujac

Fullish colour. Lovely classy fruit on the nose. Fullish body. Good grip. This is positive and very good though it lacks a bit of dimension at the end. From 2014. 16.0.

Gevrey-Chambertin, Les Combottes, Domaine Hubert Lignier

Medium-full colour. There is depth and substance here on the nose. Medium-full body. Good attack. Quite rich and with good grip. Nice long finish. Has class. Very good. From 2014. 16.0.

Gevrey-Chambertin, Les Combottes, Domaine Rossignol-Trapet

Medium-full colour. Soft nose. Forward. Medium body. Not a great deal of backbone or grip, or indeed richness and vigour. Decent fruit. But it doesn't excite. From 2012. 14.0.

Gevrey-Chambertin, Les Corbeaux, Domaine Denis Bachelet

Fullish colour. Firmish nose. Slightly tight at present. Mediufull body. A little tannin. Good grip and the finish is positive, indeed classy. Long finish. Very good indeed. From 2015. 17.0.

Gevrey-Chambertin, Les Corbeaux, Domaine Christian Serafin

Fullsh colour. A little diffuse on the nose at first, but rather better on the palate. Medium-full body. Some oak. A little tannin. Good grip. No lack of charm. Finishes well. Very good. From 2015. 16.0.

Gevrey-Chambertin, Le Craipillot, Domaine Drouhin-Laroze

Medium-full colour. Rich, ample, gentle and gently oaky on the nose. Full of charm. Medium to medium-full body. Fresh. Quite forward. No great tannin or backbone. Good. From 2013. 15.0.

Gevrey-Chambertin, Les Etelois, Domaine Rossignol-Trapet

Soft, fragrant, balanced and elegant on the nose. Flowery and enticing on the palate, with a nice touch of new oak underneath. Medium body. Fresh and positive. Long at the end. Most attractive. Good plus. From 2012. 15.5.

Gevrey-Chambertin, Les Fontenys, Domaine Roty

Fullish colour. Quite rich on the nose. Good depth here. On the palate it falls away a bit. Medium-full body. Decent depth and grip. And quite stylish. But good at best. From 2012. 15.0.

Gevrey-Chambertin, Les Fontenys, Domaine Christian Serafin

Fullish colour. Some oak on the nose but rather more soft-centered than his Corbeaux. Medium to medium-full body. Gentle and fruity. Fresh but quite forward. Good at best. From 2012. 15.0.

Gevrey-Chambertin, Les Goulots, Domaine Fourrier

Fullish colour. Firm,rich, concentrated nose. There is depth here. Fullish body. Rich, concentrated and classy on the palate. Some tannin. Very good grip. Lovely long finish. This is very good indeed. I preferred it to his Cherbaudes, which preceded it in the line-up. From 2015. 17.0.

Gevrey-Chambertin, Lavaux-Saint-Jacques, Maison Albert Bichot

Medium-full colour. Fresh, fruity, accessible nose. A well-made wine, every element in harmony. Fullish body. Good tannins. Good grip. Positive and classy. Very good indeed. From 2015. 17.0.

Gevrey-Chambertin, Lavaux-Saint-Jacques, Maison Chanson

Medium-full colour. Soft, fruity, oaky nose. Charm here if no great energy. Medium-full body. Fresh. Plump. Quite stylish. Finishes positively. Good plus. From 2014. 15.5.

Gevrey-Chambertin, Lavaux-Saint-Jacques, Domaine Drouhin-Laroze

Medium-full colour. Some substance here but not enough nuance on the nose. Medium to medium-full body. Decent fruit and grip and it grew in the glass. Very good. From 2013. 16.0.

Gevrey-Chambertin, Lavaux-Saint-Jacques, Domaine Maume

Medium-full colour. Slightly weedy and stemmy on the nose. Medium body. Decent grip. Quite juicy but not very stylish. Forward too. Quite good at best. From 2012. 14.0.

Gevrey-Chambertin, Lavaux-Saint-Jacques, Domaine Mortet

Fullish colour. Somewhat dense and closed-in on the nose, but like their Champeaux not too dense. Medium-full body. Lots of almost over-ripe fruit. Good acidity nevertheless. And ripe tannins. Very good but not the depth and style for better. From 2014. 16.0.

Gevrey-Chambertin, En Pallud, Domaine Maume

Medium-full colour. A little artisanal on the nose. Medium to medium-full body. Good tannins. Good grip. More sophisticated than it used to be. Good meaty fruit. Round and succulent. Quite good. From 2013. 14.0.

GRANDS CRUS

Corton, Domaine Bonneau du Martray

Two notes. Ripe, ample and succulent on the nose. This is very classy. A generous wine. Medium to medium-full bodied. Rich and balanced and sophisticated. Lovely. From 2015. 17.5.

Corton, Domaine Follin-Arbelet

Medium-full colour. Fruity nose, if no great grip or backbone at first, but it put on weight in the glass. Some extraction, but good acidity and structure and nice cool fruit. Finishes well. Very good plus. From 2014. 16.5.

Corton, Domaine Tollot-Beaut

Medium to medium-full colour. Decent substance on the nose if no real class. Or personality. Better on the palate. Medium-full body. Good grip. Not unstylish and a good positive finish. Good plus. From 2014. 15.5.

Château Corton-Grancey, Domaine Louis Latour

Medium colour. Slightly hard on the nose. Medium-full body. Decent if somewhat cooked fruit, but also grip on the nose. No great finesse or dimension but good. From 2013. 15.0.

Le Corton, Domaine Bouchard Père et Fils

Medium-full colour. Rich, ripe, quite firm, substantial nose. Good depth here. Fullish body. Quite backward. Good grip and fine tannins. Long, ripe and complex at the end. Fine plus. From 2015. 18.0.

Corton, Bressandes, Domaine Follin-Arbelet

Medium-full colour. Ripe, quite rich, essentially soft nose. Medium to medium-full body. Stylish fruit. Good acidity. This had good depth and style. And a positive finish. Very good plus. From 2014. 16.5.

Corton, Bressandes, Domaine Chandon de Briailles

Very lovely intense, succulent fruit on the nose. Fullish. Very sophisticated. Harmonious and profound. Very good indeed. From 2015. 17.0.

Corton, Bressandes, Domaine de la Pousse d'Or

Fullish colour. This has plenty of depth on the nose but it's a bit closed. Medium-full body. Fresh. Elegant. Poised. Long on the palate. Very good plus. From 2014. 16.5.

Corton, Bressandes, Domaine Senard

Good fruit on the nose. Medium-full body. Ripe, rich, fresh and positive. Good depth and class. Very good indeed. From 2014. 17.0.

Corton, Bressandes, Domaine Tollot Beaut

Medium-full colour. Good class and depth here on the nose. Medium-full body. Good ripe tannins. Rich and quite meaty. Good grip. Plenty on the follow-through. Good intensity and class. Fine. From 2014. 17.5.

Corton, Clos des Cortons-Faiveley, Domaine Faiveley

Firm, full, rigid and not entirely clean on the nose (I tried this on three occasions). Inflexible. A disappointment. From 2013. 14.0 at best.

Corton, Clos de la Maréchaude, Domaine du Pavillon (Albert Bichot)

Medium to medium-full colour. Rich, soft, oaky, toffee-flavoured nose. This is most seductive. Round, ripe, fresh and balanced. Classy fruit. Long on the palate. Fine. From 2014. 17.5.

Corton, Clos de Meix, Domaine Senard

Medium colour. Firm nose but good depth. But weedy as it evelved. Medium body. Decent fruit. But a disappointment. From 2013. 13.5.

Corton, Clos du Roi, Domaine de Montille

Medium to medium-full colour. Good rich fruit on the nose. Good grip but high-toned on the palate. Ample, ripe, soft attack. Medium to medium-full body. Plenty of style. Long and complex. Fine. From 2013. 17.5.

Corton, Clos du Roi, Domaine de la Pousse d'Or

Medium colour. Some fruit on the nose but a bit bland. Better on the palate. Medium to medium-full body. Quite fresh. Good fruit. Positive finish. Very good. From 2013. 16.0.

Corton, Clos du Roi, Domaine Senard

Fullish colour. Some substance on the nose. But a bit rustic. Medium to medium-full body. Some tannin to resolve. Good grip. Slightly dry at the end but very good. From 2013. 16.0.

Corton, Clos du Roi, Domaine de la Vougeraie

Fullisg colour. Slightly reduced on the nose but quite fat underneath. Medium to medium-full body. Rich and mocha-ish on the palate. Good fruit but it lacks a bit of grip and finishes short. An attractive wine though. Good plus. From 2013. 15.5.

Corton, Paulands, Domaine Senard

Medium colour. Not very expressive on the nose. Medium to medium-full body. Ripe and succulent at first. Slightly boiled-sweety though. And a little astrinent on the follow through. Tarty but good stuff. From 2013. 15.0.

Corton, Pougets, Domaine Louis Jadot

Medium-full colour. Rich, coffee-chocolate flavours on the nose, with a good base of oak. Medium-full body. Good fruit and grip. On the attack a little dry, but the follow-through is lusher. Needs time From 2015. 17.0.

Corton, Rognets, Domaine Taupenot-Merme

Good colour. Somewhat tarty, soft-centered nose. Mocha here at first, boiled sweets later. Will get astringent, I fear. From 2012. 13.5.

Echézeaux, Domaine Robert Arnoux

Full colour. Ample, concentrated, profound nose. Lots of wine here, but not too burly. Medium-full body. Rich and energetic. Plenty of depth. Fine. From 2015. 17.5.

Echézeaux, Domaine du Clos Frantin (Albert Bichot)

Fullish colour. Rich, open, aromatic yet quite sturdy nose. Medium-full body. Lush, ripe and exotic on the palate. Quite fresh. Attractive for drinking quite soon. From 2013. 16.0.

Echézeaux, Domaine Bouchard Père et Fils

Fullish colour. Ripe, rich, quite sturdy nose. Good class and definition. Decent vigour but not quite enough grip for fine. Medium-full body. Very good plus. From 2014. 16.5.

Echézeaux, Domaine Eugenie

Domaine Engel as was. Medium-full colour. Silky-smooth, accessible, oaky nose. Quite a pronounced acidity. Ripe and generous on the palate. Medium-full weight. Lacks a little vigour and backbone but good plus. From 2013. 15.5.

Echézeaux, Domaine Faiveley

Medium-full colour. Soft, ripe nose. A little diffuse. Medium-full body. A forward example. Lush and fruity. Good but not special. From 2013. 15.0.

Echézeaux, Domaine Jean Grivot

Medium-full colour. A bit hidden, like so many of Grivot's wines at present. But there is depth and quality here. Medium-full body. Balanced. Plenty in reserve. Very good plus. From 2014. 16.5.

Echézeaux, Domaine Lamarche

Medium-full colour. Cool, stylish, aromatic nose. Ripe and medium-full bodied on the palate. Good energy. Stylish, fresh, profound and long on the palates. Impressive. From 2015. 18.0.

Echézeaux, Doamine du Vicomte Liger-Belair

Full colour. Firm nose. Some tannin. Still a bit closed. Medium-full body. Cool, good vigour and grip. At present a bit severe but very good plus, at least, I think. From 2015. 16.5.

Echézeaux, Domaine Jean-Marc Millet

Full colour. Rich, ripe, full fat nose. Medium-full body. Plump, succulent, balanced and vigorous. This is very good indeed. From 2015. 17.0.

Echézeaux, Domaine Gérard Mugneret

Fullish colour. Ripe, quite fat nose with touch of reduction. At the moment this degrades the class. But medium-full body. Good grip. And at least very good plus when it sorts itself out. From 2014. 16.5.

Echézeaux, Domaine Mugneret-Gibourg

Medium-full colour. Rich nose. Fat and vigorous. Quite firm still. Medium-full body. Rich, ripe anf full of fruit. Good grip and backbone. Plenty of vigour. Very good indeed. From 2015. 17.0.

Echézeaux, Domaine de la Romanée-Conti

Medium colour. Ripe, fresh nose; elegant if not very voluminous. Sweet, spicy, slightly stemmy flavours. Medium weight. Good follow through. Fresh, balanced, stylish and with a positive finish. Very good plus. From 2013. 16.5.

Echézeaux, Domaine Emmanuel Rouget

Medium-full colour. Still quite hidden on the nose. Good substance. Good tannins. Just a little rough and ready at present. Good grip. Plenty of depth and richness. Plus a touch, but not excessively so, of oak. Long. Fine plus. From 2014. 18.0.

Echézeaux, Domaine Cécile Tremblay

Fullish colour. Ripe but a little bland on the nose. Medium to medium-full body. Decent fruit and grip. A little ungainly at present and the finish is a bit dry. Only quite good plus at present. From 2013. 14.5.

Echézeaux, Domaine Fabrice Vigot

Stylish and harmonious. Still a little bit raw at the moment. Could have had a bit more substance. But the follow-through is positive enough. Good plus. From 2012. 15.5.

Grands-Echézeaux, Domaine Joseph Drouhin

Medium-full weight. Ripe, balanced and succulent. Lovely fruit. Not quite the flair and energy for 'very fine' but certainly 'fine'. From 2015. 17.5.

Grands-Echézeaux, Domaine Gros Frère et Soeur

Full colour. Austere nose with high, almost balsamic, volatile acidity. Fullish body. No lack of new wood. To be seen again.

Grands-Echézeaux, Domaine Lamarche

Medium-full colour. Fresh, new oaky nose. Classy fruit here. Fullish body. Ripe and balanced and with plenty of energy. Lots of depth. Impressive. Fine plus. From 2016. 18.0.

Grands-Echézeaux, Domaine de la Romanée-Conti

This is rather more structured than the Echézeaux. Quite a lot richer too. Medium-full body. Lots of fruit and concentration. Very well-balanced. Lovely finish. Elegant. Fine. From 2015. 17.5.

Clos de Vougeot, Domaine Robert Arnoux

Full colour. Some substance on the nose. But a little four square at first. Evolved well. Fullish. Some tannin. Very good grip. Lovely black fruit. Lots of depth. This is impressive. It needs time, but it will last well. From 2016. 18.5.

Clos de Vougeot, Domaine Bouchard Père et Fils

Medium-full colour. Fresh, ripe, balanced and stylish on the nose. But not a blockbuster. Medium-full body. Good fruit with a touch of oak. And a long, positive finish. Very good. From 2014. 16.0.

Clos de Vougeot, Maison Chanson

Medium-full colour. A bit tight on the nose but good depth. Broad flavoured. No great backbone or grip, so a touch of astringency at the end. The fruit is quite classy though. Quite good plus. From 2013. 14.5.

Clos de Vougeot, Domaine Philippe Charlopin-Parizot

Medium-full colour. Not a lot on the nose, save that it is ripe and plump. Medium-full body. I don't find much personality here, nor grand cru finesse. Ample, balanced and positive at the end, but no better than good plus. From 2013. 15.5.

Clos de Vougeot, Domaine du Clos Frantin (Albert Bichot)

Medium-full colour. Ripe, rich and quite oaky on the nose. Firm and backward too. Fullish, rich, ample and new oaky on the palate. Good class and depth. Fresh and harmonious. Fine plus. From 2015. 18.0.

Clos de Vougeot, Domaine Faiveley

Fullish colour. A big, rich, quite extracted, tannic wine. Is it too big for its boots? Better on the palate. Fullish. Good energy and class. Needs time, but fine, I think. From 2016. 17.5.

Clos de Vougeot, Domaine Jean Grivot

Good colour. Very lovely fruit here. Fullish, concentrated. Excellent grip. Fine tannins. Lots of character and class. Long, subtle and profound. Fine plus. From 2016. 18.0.

Clos de Vougeot, Grand Maupertuis, Domaine Michel Gros

Medium-full colour. Stylish nose. Gentle and fruity, oaky and full of charm. Medium-full body. This will evolve quite soon. Most attractive if lacks a little power. Very good. From 2013. 16.0.

Clos de Vougeot, Musigni, Domaine Gros Frère et Soeur

Full colour. Full, rich, concentrated and backward on the nose. But lots of class and depth here. This is a big, youthful, fine quality wine. Very lovely fruit. Lots of energy. Fine plus. From 2016. 18.0.

Clos de Vougeot, Grand Maupertuis, Domaine Anne Gros

Fullish colour. Firm, fresh, oaky nose. Still a bit closed in. Rich and ripe on the attack. Quite full bosy. Very good grip. Above all this has class. Fine. From 2016. 17.5.

Clos de Vougeot, Domaine Hudelot-Noëllat

Medium-full colour. Succulent, attractive fruit on the nose. Good class here. Medium-full body. Ripe, concentrated, intense and classy. A fullish, lush wine with plenty of energy. Long and vigorous. Fine plus. From 2015. 18.0.

Clos de Vougeot, Domaine Lamarche

Fullish colour. Abundant, quite oaky nose, if no great concentration. Medium-full body. The fruit is classy and the wine well-balanced. Finishes positively. Very good. From 2014. 16.0.

Clos de Vougeot, Domaine Thibaut Liger-Belair

Full colour. The nose is a bit closed. Medium-full body. Quite oaky. Rich and lush on the palate. Decent grip. Very good. From 2014. 16.0.

Clos de Vougeot, Domaine Sylvain Loichet

Full colour. Smooth nose. Decent balance but a slight lack of energy. Medium to medium-full body. Ripe and pretty; Good balance. Quite a forward example. But good stuff. From 2013. 15.0.

Clos de Vougeot, Domaine Méo-Camuzet

Full colour. Quite oaky on the nose, and well-structured, if not a little burly as well. Fullish body. Good grip. Rich underneath, but a little ungainly at present. Good plus, perhaps better. From 2015. 15.5.

Clos de Vougeot, Domaine Jean-Marc Millot

Medium-full colour. An open, gentle, spicy nose. Medium to medium-full body. Round and riope, even succulent. Quite a forward example but good plus. From 2013. 15.5.

Clos de Vougeot, Château de la Tour

Fullish colour. Abundant, spicy nose. But no great class here. Medium to medium-full body. A little diffuse. The fruit is a bit one-dimensional and the finish a bit short. Quite good at best. From 2012. 14.0.

Clos de Vougeot, Vieilles Vignes, Château de la Tour

Not weedy on the nose, which this wine has regularly been in the past. Indeed fresh, fruity and stylish. Medium to medium-full weight. Decent balance. Quite positive. Not brilliant but very good indeed. Obviously an improvement has taken place here. From 2016. 17.0.

Clos de Vougeot, Domaine de la Vougeraie

Full colour. Good firm, rich nose. Lovely fruit. Medium-full body. Perfumed. Lush and succulent and seductive. Very good. From 2015. 16.0.

Romanée-Saint-Vivant, Domaine de l'Arlot

Full colour. Aromatic nose. Some stems. Ripe and high-toned on the attack. Medium-full body. Fresh; fruity, juicy and succulent. Fine. From 2015. 17.5.

Romanée-Saint-Vivant, Domaine Robert Arnoux

Full colour. Very refined, pure, classy nose. Very lovely. Rich, fat, energetic and full bodied on the palate. Good grip. Backward. This has a lot of depth. From 2016. 18.5.

Romanée-Saint-Vivant, Domaine Follin-Arbelet

Full colour. A big, fat, even muscular wine here. Full body. Sweet and rich and ripe on the attack. Plenty of wine here. Fine. From 2015. 17.5.

Romanée-Saint-Vivant, Domaine Hudelot-Noëllat

Full colour. Good class on the nose, but a little pinched. Fullish body. Ample, quite classy fruit. And consistyent from start to finish. Could have had a bit more vigour and intensity but very good indeed. From 2015. 17.0.

Romanée-Saint-Vivant, Domaine de la Romanée-Conti

Fragrant nose. Good acidity. Flowery and elegant. Medium to medium-full body. Quite a delicate wine. But fresh and balanced and stylish. Good positive follow through. Fine. From 2013. 17.5.

Richebourg, Domaine Jean Grivot

Fullish colour. This was very closed-in at first, but opened up to show something of real beauty. Fullish. Tannic. Ripe, rich and concentrated. Splendidly profound fruit. Very long and really quite splendid. From 2016. 19.5.

Richebourg, Domaine Gros Frère et Soeur

Full colour. High-toned nose. Another wine which was rather tight at first and then opened up. Fullish body. Very good grip. Oaky and concentrated. Some tannin. Not as spectacular as some, but very god indeed at the very least. Needs time. From 2016. 17.0.

Richebourg, Domaine Leroy

Full colour. Rich, aromatic nose, with evidence of the stems. (This is more marked than usual in the Leroy 2006s.) Fullish. Ripe, rich and attractive. Opened up in the glass. A lush, succulent wine. Fresh and balanced. Lovely. Fine plus. From 2016. 18.0.

Richebourg, Domaine Thibaut Liger-Belair

Fullish colour. Rich, full, concentrated and classy on the nose. Fullish body. Very good grip. Lovely fruit. Intense and stylish. Not a blockbuster but very lovely. From 2016. 18.0.

Richebourg, Domaine de la Romanée-Conti

Plump, fat and medium-full bodied. At present a little closed in. Best on the finish. Very good grip and lovely ample fruit. This is long on the palate and has a lot of dimension and class. Fine plus. From 2016. 18.0.

La Grande Rue, Domaine Lamarche

Full colour. Very pure and very, very classy on the nose. Cool, composed, rich and concentrated on the palate. Plus a touch of new oak. Medium-full body. Balanced, understated, fresh and intense. From 2016. 19.0.

La Romanée, Domaine du Vicomte Liger-Belair

Full colour. Very seductive, aromatic, ripe nose. Rich and succulent. Medium-full body. Very good grip. Subtle and harmonious and very long on the palate. Fine plus. From 2015. 18.0.

La Tache, Domaine de la Romanée-Conti

Good colour. The nose is a bit hidden. But it is evident that this is a big step up on the Richebourg. More concentration. More volume. More depth. Above all more class and definition. Very lovely balanced fruit and an excellent long finish. Very fine plus. From 2018. 19.0.

La Romanée-Conti, Domaine de la Romanée-Conti

Medium-full weight. Very lovely, almost Musigny-like fruit here. Complex, concentrated and intense. Marvelous harmony. Very, very long and multi-dimensional. This is very special. From 2015. 20.0.

Musigny, Domaine J.F. Mugnier

Very lovely nose. Rich, complex, concentrated, harmonious and spendidly elegant. Fullish body. Marvelous fruit. Not the vigour of Roumier's Bonnes-Mares but just as intense and almost perfect. It has a most lovely long, lingering finish. From 2016. 20.0.

Musigny, Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé

Fullish colour. Very abundant, mocha-toffee nose. Plus a lot of new oak. On the palate not the greatest grip or complexity. Indeed, like the Bonnes-Mares, it's a bit tarty. Full body. Balanced. Needs time. Where is the usual Musigny delicacy? From 2016. 16.0.

Musigny, Domaine de la Vougeraie

Medium-full colour. Abundant nose, but not the usual subtlety. Medium-full colour. Good grip. Good stylish fruit. Balanced and long on the palate, and better here than on the nose. Fine. From 2015. 17.5.

Bonnes-Mares, Domaine Arlaud

Medium to medium-full colour. Quite evolved on both the nose and the palate. A soft, fruity, quite spicy wine. Rather disappointing. Is this a representative bottle?

Bonnes-Mares, Domaine Francois Bertheau

Medium-full colour. Very ripe, abundant, succulent fruit on the nose. On the palate more evoved than the nose would indicate. Quite new oaky. A flamboyant example but it lacks a little class. Very good plus. From 2016. 16.5.

Bonnes-Mares, Domaine Bouchard Père et Fils

Medium-full colour. Rich, full and oaky on the nose. Fullish body. Very oaky. Very lush fruit. But lots of energy and no lack of class. Lovely finish. Fine plus. From 2016. 18.0.

Bonnes-Mares, Domaine Drouhin-Laroze

Fullish colour. Concentrated, profound, backward nose. Lots of depth here. Full body. Some tannin. Cool and composed. Understated. Very fine. From 2016. 18.5.

Bonnes-Mares, Domaine Georges Roumier

Good colour. Quite firm on the nose. Rich, concentrated, fullish weight and very classy indeed. Lots of depth and energy on the palate. Lots of fruit. Complex, vigorous and very fine. From 2017. 18.5.

Bonnes-Mares, Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé

Medium-full colour. Fresh, quite firm, attractive nose with a touch of oak and spice. Medium-full body. Good tannins. Nicely abundant fruit. Good grip. This is long on the palate and fine plus. From 2015. 18.0.

Bonnes-Mares, Domaine de la Vougeraie

Fullish colour. Rich, fat and oaky on the nose. But a little more restained than some. Full body. Ample. Quite tannic. But very ripe and with very good grip. Backward. Lots of depth. Fine plus. From 2016. 18.0.

Clos des Lambrays, Domaine des Lambrays

Fullish colour. Lovely nose. Rich, profound, high quality. Fullsh body. Complete. Very rich concentrated fruit. Real finesse. Excellent. From 2016. 19.0.

Clos de la Roche, Domaine Dujac

Medium-full colour. Ripe nose, but a little closed at first. Good grip. Medium-full body. On the palate plenty of lush, succulent fruit. Lots of depth. Fine. Just needs time. From 2015. 17.5.

Clos de la Roche, Domaine Hubert Lignier

Fullish colour. Fullish, ample, profound and new oaky on the nose. Fullish body. This bottle is corked, but the wine is promising. To be seen again.

Clos de la Roche, Domaine Ponsot

Medium colour. Soft, scented wood on the nose. Medium to medium-full body. Smooth, ripe tannins, good fruit. Not a blochbuster but good intensity. Finishes well. Very good plus. From 2014. 16.5.

Clos de la Roche, Domaine Louis Rémy

Medium-full colour. Rich, quite new oaky on the nose. Medium-full body. Ample and succulent. Good backbone, vigour and plenty of depth. Very good grip. Long. Very good indeed. From 3015. 17.0.

Clos Saint-Denis, Domaine Philippe Charlopin-Parizot

Good colour. Rich, ripe nose, and stylish too. Medium-full body. Quite vigorous and intense on the palate. Good fruit. Good grip. Good vigour. Long and very good indeed. From 2016. 17.0.

Clos Saint-Denis, Domaine de Chézeaux

Surprisingly accessible. Very fine tannins. Medium to medium-full body. Lovely fresh, elegant fruit. A very composed wine. Ripe, complex, ample but essentially gentle. Long. Fine. From 2015. 17.5.

Clos de Tart, Domaine Mommessin

Medium-full colour. A little closed-in on the nose. But there is class here. Fullish body. Good tannins. Very good grip. Youthful and a bit ungainly at present. But high class fruit and depth underneath. Fine plus. From 2016. 18.0.

Charmes-Chambertin, Domaine Denis Bachelet

Full colour. Rich but closed-in nose. Still a bit austere. Full body. Quite tannic, but by no means over-done. Plenty of fruit and depth. Lots of potential. A profound wine. Fine or better. From 2016. 17.5 or more.

Charmes-Chambertin, Maison Henri Boillot

Medium-full colour. Ample, quite soft nose if no great vigour or depth. Medium to medium-full body. Fruity and pleasant and balanced. Fresh and stylish. Quite forward. Very good. From 2014. 16.0.

Charmes-Chambertin, Maison Chanson

Medium-full colour. Very rich on the nose. But a bit over the top and a little oxidation. Medium to medium-full body. Tired. Fair at best. From 2011. 13.0.

Charmes-Chambertin, Domaine Philippe Charlopin-Parizot

Medium-full colour. Ample, plump, fruity nose. Medium to medium-full body. Ripe, round and balanced, but not really grand cru depth or finesse. Decent length though. Very good at best. From 2014. 16.0.

Charmes-Chambertin, Maison Camille Giroud

Medium to medium-full colour. Fullish but a little four-square on the nose. Medium full body. Quite fresh. More interest than that shown on the nose. Good depth. Very good. From 2015. 16.0.

Charmes-Chambertin, Domaine Maume

Mezdium colour. Some stems on the nose. A bit more developed than most. Medium to medium-full body. Ample, positive, lush and exotic. Lots of fresh fruit. Good energy. Very good indeed. From 2015. 17.0.

Charmes-Chambertin, Très Vieilles Vignes, Domaine Roty

Medium-full colour. Full and rich on the nose. Sadly this is corked, but one can see a structured, meaty wine with good grip and tannins. Backward. This is at least fine. What a pity!

Charmes-Chambertin, Domaine Armand Rousseau

Medium colour. Plump nose. Medium to medium-full body. Ripe, balanced, generous and long on the palate. Lacks a bit of flair but good plus. From 2014. 15.5

Charmes-Chambertin, Domaine Christian Serafin

Full colour. Ripe, stylish, gently oaky, most attractive nose. Fullish body. Plenty of vigour. Rich. Very good grip. Some tannin. Long, complex finish. Fine plus. From 2016. 18.0.

Charmes-Chambertin,Les Mazoyrères, Domaine de la Vougeraie

Medium-full colour. Plump, soft, quite aromatic nose. Nicely ripe and fresh. Medium-full body. Good energy. Ample and vigorous. Still needs time. Very good grip. Lots of potential here. Fine. From 2015. 17.5.

Mazoyères-Chambertin, Domaine Taupenot-Merme

Fullish colour. Slightly hard new oak on the nose. A little rigid at first. But good plump, succulent fruit underneath. Medium-full body. Good grip. Very good. From 2015. 16.0.

Griotte-Chambertin, Domaine Ponsot

Fullish colour. A touch of reduction on the nose. Medium-full body. Oaky. Fat and ripe and with good acidity. But it doesn't add up to anything very classy. There is a positive finish though. Good plus. From 2014. 15.5.

Chapelle-Chambertin, Domaine Bouchard Père et Fils

Medium-full colour. Fresh, fruity and classy on the nose. Medium-full body. Some oak. Good grip and intensity. Still quite closed in. Very lovely, long, cool, composed finish. Fine plus. From 2016. 18.0.

Chapelle-Chambertin, Domaine Drouhin-Laroze

Fullish colour. Nicely rich and meaty on the nose. Something just a little unclean on the nose, which made others mark it down. I ignored this, as I don't think it's a long-term problem. Medium-full body. Ripe and vigorous. Good tannins. Long at the end. Very good. From 2015. 16.0.

Chapelle-Chambertin, Domaine Rossignol-Trapet

Fresh, firm and showing very good fruit on the nose. Nicely cool and composed. A lot of depth and class. Medium-full body. Good tannins. Long and stylish. Fine plus. From 2016. 18.0.

Chapelle-Chambertin, Domaine Cécile Tremblay

Full colour. This is rather tight at present and it lacks a bit of charm. Yet there is fruit and balance and good grip at the end. Good, perhaps even better. From 2014. 15.0.

Ruchottes-Chambertin, Domaine Christophe Roumier

Full colour. Big nose. Quite a long extraction here, quite evidently. Fullish. Quite tannic, even a little astringency on the palate; A little bitter at the end. Good. But better? I expected better. From 2016. 15.0.

Mazis-Chambertin, Domaine Phillipe Charlopin-Parizot

Good colour. Somewhat over-blown on the nose. A touch of new oak here. Medium-full body. The attack is balanced and quite stylish, but then it tails off. No better than his Charmes. Very good at best. From 2014. 16.0.

Mazis-Chambertin, Domaine Faiveley

Fullish colour. Ripe, round, fresh, plump and vigorous on the nose. Nothing aggressive here. Fullish, still some tannin. Good depth and backbone. Needs time. Very good indeed. From 2016. 17.0.

Mazis-Chambertin, Domaine Maume

Full colour. Some stems but a meaty wine, a little four-square perhaps. Nice and ripe. Vigorous and rich. Quite elegant. Good plus. From 2014. 15.5.

Mazis-Chambertin, Domaine Newman

Medium-full colour. The nose is a little closed but the wine has depth and class. Fullish body. Lovely fruit. Very good tannins. Very good grip. Above all finesse. Not the intensity for great but a fine wine. From 2016. 17.5.

Latricières-Chambertin, Domaine Drouhin-Laroze

Medium-full colour. Fresh, high-toned, fruity nose. Good class and depth. There is a touch of rigid oak here, but basically the wine is balanced. Full bodied. Concentrated. Good finish. Very good indeed. From 2015. 17.0.

Latricières-Chambertin, Domaine Faiveley

Full colour. Slightly lean, but ripe, balanced and classy on the nose. Medium-full body. Some oak. Not really enough fat and concentration and grip. I fear it may dry ut. Good plus. From 2013. 15.5.

Latricières-Chambertin, Domaine Louis Rémy

Full colour. Ample, voluminous, round, rich nose. Even fat. Just a bit four-square. Yet on the palate the fruit is very ripe and abundant – a real summer pudding. Seductive, but not quite the grip for fine. Very good indeed. From 2015. 17.0.

Latricières-Chambertin, Domaine Rossignol-Trapet

Medium-full colour. Rich, black-fruity, concentrated nose. Fullish body and high class. Some tannin. Backward. Vigorous. Profound. This has very good grip. Very, very long. Fine plus. From 2016. 18.0.

Latricières-Chambertin, Domaine Jean et Jean-Louis Trapet

Fullish colour. Rich, meaty nose. Fullish body. Quite round, yet good supporting tannins and acidity. Classy fruit. Good intensity. Very ripe and very fine. From 2016. 18.5.

Chambertin, Clos de Bèze, Domaine Bouchard Père et Fils

Full colour. Somewhat hard on the nose. Very much in its shell still. Medium-full colour. At the moment it lacks a little charm. It was one of the few (if not the only) Bouchard wine I didn't warm to at the group tasting, and others liked it better than I did, though only at a 'very good indeed' level. I'll wait until I see it again.

Chambertin, Clos de Bèze, Maison Chanson

Full colour. Ripe, and rich and vigorous on the nose, with a touch of the stems. Medium-full body. This does not have quite the intensity of the very best, but it is abundant, long and complex. Fine. From 2014. 17.5.

Chambertin, Clos de Bèze, Domaine Bruno Clair

Medium-full colour. High quality on the nose here. Rich, balanced and vigorous. Full body. Some tannin. Lots of energy. Very harmonious. Profound and very exciting. Quite lovely. Needs time. From 2017. 19.0.

Chambertin, Clos de Bèze, Domaine Drouhin-Laroze

Medium-full colour. Rich and full but slightly earthy nose. Medium-full body on the palate. Very lovely fruit. But not the backbone. Very good grip, but not quite the intensity. Fine plus nevertheless. From 2015. 18.0.

Chambertin, Clos de Bèze, Domaine Faiveley

Full colour. Full, rich, backward, very concentrated nose. This has depth and quality. On the palate though it was a bit earthy, like the Drouhin-Laroze wine, But underneath the wine is balanced, vigorous, and has high class fruit. From 2015. 17.5.

Chambertin, Clos de Bèze, Domaine Armand Rousseau

Fullish colour. Medium-full weight on the nose. High-toned, very classy, very well-balanced nose. Very lovely fruit. Fullish body. Pure and intense. Not the biggest of wines, but with a vigour and a depth of flavour which is hard to beat. Very lovely at the end. From 2016. 19.0.

Chambertin, Domaine Madame Jocelyne Baron, made by Philippe Charlopin-Parizot

Good colour. Very ripe, if not a bit over-ripe on the nose. Medium-full body. On the palate also very ripe, even sweet. Yet good acidity, concentration and depth. What it lacks is real finesse. But fine quality. From 2016. 17.5.

Chambertin, Domaine Louis Remy

Medium-full colour. Ample, round, slightly spicy, sweet nose. Medium-full body. Ample and fruity if without the concentration, grip and vigour of the very best. Fine, though. From 2014. 17.5.

Chambertin, Domaine Rossignol-Trapet

Not a blockbuster but very subtle, elegant and concentrated. Very lovely fruit. Medium-full body. Ripe tannins. Very good grip. Lovely velvety cassis flavours. Long and complex. Very fine plus. From 2016. 19.0.

Chambertin, Domaine Armand Rousseau

Fullish colour. The nose is rather more hidden than his Clos de Bèze. But there is a lot of quality and depth here. On the palate fullish body. Splendidly concentrated fruit. Rich and fat and complex and high class. Very, very lovely. From 2016. 19.5.

Chambertin, Domaine Jean et Jean-Louis Trapet

Medium-full colour. Rich, profound and gently oaky on the nose. Fullish, intense, youthful but not aggressively tannic on the palate. Very good grip. Lots of depth. Classy. Not brilliant but fine plus. From 2016. 18.0

Contact Details:
Clive Coates MW Les Petits Baronnets 71430 Saint-Bonnet-De-Vieille-Vigne France
Tel/Fax: (+33) (0)3 85 88 12 02 Email: clive.coates@orange.fr

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