Book Review: Henri Jayer
Ode Aux Grands Vins De Bourgogne, A Tribute To The Great Wines Of Burgundy.
Henri Jayer, Wine Grower From Vosne-Romanée.
Written by Jacky Rigaux.
Translated by James K. Finkel.
Published by Terre et Vues at €25-30
More than ten years ago, in 1997, when the great man was still alive, Jacky Rigaux, well-known Burgundian wine-writer, published a book on Henri Jayer. This has now been translated into English by James K. Finkel, an American Burgundy lover, and is published by Terre et Vues at €25-30.
This is indeed a labour of love. Mr. Finkel is a New York businessman, and I very much doubt he will earn a great deal for his efforts. But he has done a grand job, and those of us on the outside should be well and truly grateful. His translation is deft and to the point; a credit to the original.
Those looking for a biography of Jayer, or indeed a critique of his wines, will be disappointed. What we have is essentially a Jayer guide to making great Burgundy. Around 30 percent of the tome consists of direct quotes from the great man, starting from the soil and continuing through to the end of the élevage. What comes across is not so much Henri Jayer's originality – he didn't invent anything – but the perfectionism of his approach, his curiosity, and his willingness to learn on the job. It was this open-mindedness which made him a genius. It was his kindness, his more-than-willingness to pass on what he had learnt to subsequent generations, which made him the object of reverence throughout the Côte d'Or.
This book should be essential reading: everyone, wherever they make wine, from wherever they drink wine, should want to understand why some wines are very well made, but not great, and why there are a few wines which make those of us who adore the stuff go weak at the knees in wonder.
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